I know it's vulgar to talk about money, but, as I spat the 2002 Cristal Rosé into the elegant spittoons in Roederer's tasting room, I couldn't help wondering how many pounds' worth I was ejecting into Rheims's sewerage system - the price range for the 2000 vintage is £300 to £545 a bottle (the 2002 has yet to be shipped).

Spitting fine wine is all in a day's work, of course, but some days are more painful than others. This was one. I spat out seven vintages of Cristal: four white and three pink. The white is cheaper (anything from about £170 to £240 for the 2000 vintage, and more for older ones), but even so I reckon it was close to £100 down the drain - literally.

Cristal sometimes hits the headlines for the wrong reasons - for example, the falling-out with Jay-Z over his spraying it around (allegedly) - but there is no question it is superlative champagne. As it should be. If you can't afford it, note that all Louis Roederer champagnes are made by the same people in the same cellars, and largely from the family's vineyards.

Cellar Notes

2002 Roederer Brut Vintage Rosé, £49.95-£63 Not Cristal, but one of the best rosé champagnes (Wimbledon Wine Cellars, 020 8540 9979; Vintage House, 020 7437 2592; Harvey Nichols, 020 7235 5000; Fortnum & Mason, 0845 300 1707).

2002 Roederer Brut Vintage, £45.95-£63 Rich brioche and candied citrus flavours (Wimbledon Wine Cellars; Vintage House; Fortnum & Mason; Berry Bros & Rudd, 0870 900 4300).

Quartet, Roederer Estate, £14.99-£19.99 Convincing champagne lookalike made in California (Waitrose; Majestic, buy two bottles for £14.99 each).

Wine bluff “The Champagne area and production are set to grow”

Anorak fact: 38 new communes are being given the right to establish vineyards, but planting will not start until at least 2015

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