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I first encountered Narda Dalgleish in the most frivolous way. Drawn like a magpie to the jewel colours of clothes in a shop called Narda Artwear, around the corner from Broadcasting House, I saw bright patches on strong colour, bold giant mosaic squares of hand-dyed silk matka, dresses and jackets rescued from kaftan dreariness by colour and cut and a simple eccentric fishtail fall.
I had always had a taste for robes: swirly dressing-up clothes rather than the weaselly body-conscious fashion of the late Nineties; I went in, swirled, and spent too much. Over the years it paid off: when you can’t find anything but dark trousers and a T-shirt, a Narda jacket takes you anywhere, con brio. On the wall of the shop was the designer’s credo: “Clothes for the woman whose beauty is determined not by the perfection or imperfection of one or a few attributes she may possess, but by the whole of her original purpose.”
I giggled a little, thinking it merely a cunning code for “These fit everyone,” and thought no more of it. In 2005, though, a modest flyer arrived in the post signed by Narda herself, explaining that the London shop would close because of business troubles after the death of her youngest son, Rotem Moria, in an al-Qaeda bombing.
I had not known that the flamboyant designer was Jewish, or indeed a woman. But the flyer carried an astonishing poem (O Ahmad), a bereaved mother’s response to terrorism.
Amid the bleak landscape of Abu Hamza rants and Israeli vengeances such a poem – from such a victim – cut sharply through the bigotry that divides the people of the Abrahamic religions. I wondered about its author; and this year found her in her last remaining shop, in Oxford.
As I had lost a son myself, we fell into conversation, and I learnt that she was close to publishing the book of mystical poems – I, Israel, Ask – of which O Ahmad is the first.
So this is Narda’s story, told to me in her shop’s lunchtime closure.
She was born in a village suburb of Tel Aviv in 1951, on that narrow neck of land bordering Jordan; the fledgeling state of Israel was three years old.
“The whole nation was emigrant, a complete mix of races and languages from the Diaspora. My parents had fled from Iraq to my mother’s uncle in Tehran, then to Israel. They were teachers. My mother used to teach in a Palestinian village in Jerusalem, and she would bring us to weddings or celebrations. I really liked playing with the kids, or going to the zoo with them. I didn’t know Arabic, and they knew just a little Hebrew, but we got on. I remember walking with a friend alongside a barbed-wire fence – and she was talking across the wire to a little girl. Afterwards I said ‘Who was that?’ ‘My cousin.’ ‘Is she coming to the wedding?’ and the girl said ‘No, she can’t, she’s in Jordan’.” Narda takes a deep breath, remembering. “I was utterly alarmed. Jordan – foreign – meant enemy, danger, taboo! My friend explained that the village was cut in half by the wire, but the people on the other side were OK . . .”
The need to cut through that wire, through all wires, stayed with her.
Years later, she says in parenthesis: “I found an old Hebrew grammar book in English. The preface contained three old letter sounds that are omitted today from modern Hebrew, (gh, dh, th) I was so moved – it reminded me of the way my grandfather spoke, sounding so much like Arabic . . . Ecstatic with joy, I started reviving words with old Hebrew sounds, like Ruth, or Shabath. I saw language – any language – as the Live Being of God . . . and I started weeping. Weeping!” Her family, however, was not devout. “A few years back I asked my father, do you believe in God? He said yes, but there was no talk about it in my childhood. We did not go to the synagogue.”
As for her own religious instincts, “I used to lose keys, pathologically, and climb to the first-floor balcony. Sometimes I found myself in innocent prayer – ‘Find the key, God, and I will paint you a beautiful picture of dawn . . .’ and then I turned the bag, clink, found the key!” She laughs at the simplicities of childhood belief.
In her early twenties she married, and after two children and a divorce came to Britain. Her sons and daughter stayed with their father for four years – “at their own request. It was hard, very hard. My consolation was that their father was devoted to them.” But at 36 she began a quest. “To go deeper. I had been studying in Israel and come to a dead end. Then I met these people who intrigued me, the way they talked . . .”
She came to the Beshara School for Intensive Esoteric Education in the Scottish Borders: a school predicated on a nondenominational, mystical perception of oneness and spirituality. Here she met her English husband, Graham, a business analyst, and they moved to Oxfordshire, where the first Narda Artwear shop opened in Burford.
Beshara ideas remained central. The mission statement about defining women not by appearance but by “their whole purpose” owes much to it. “I was moved to serve,” she says, gnomically. “The style came by a taste of the heart.” Starting small, she took her baby Hannah on the bus to Brick Lane in East London to buy fabrics, and gradually prospered, opening in Oxford and London. “Things we needed just came.”
Her son, Rotem Moria, came too. “For six months he lived with me, the longest we had been together since I left Israel. I loved his company.” He was very politically conscious, read a lot of newspapers. After 9/11 she sensed “a huge bias against Israelis. People came to the shop and I was afraid to say I was Israeli. But Rotem was very pro-peace. After 9/11, as his friends moved to the right, he argued with them towards peaceful solutions.” She was at one with him there; the poem O Ahmad was started after 9/11, stating the unity of all creeds. “That vision of the soul in the mosque – who turns to right and left. Who is he greeting? Is there any way he can turn his head where the Lord of all Lords, who is in every man, is not there?”
In summer 2004 Rotem left for Israel “for the election, to volunteer for a party that never stood a chance. He went on holiday and was killed in the Taba Hilton with many others. He was 27.”
A van of explosives rammed the hotel and ten floors collapsed. Narda had an early-morning call from her daughter Neshem. “She said, ‘Not good . . .’ Her voice was breaking. Rotem was in Sinai with two companions. One of them told us that he and his best friend had gone to the hotel loo and couldn’t be found.”
If ever there was a test of her belief this was it. Yet (almost, I sense, to her surprise) it was unshaken. “I went to the funeral in Israel and felt . . . extraordinary. Everything I have learnt, with a sense of certainty which has nothing to do with the intellect, was Love. It is not to do with one relative self in reference to another self. It is about what is real in every existence.” She pauses, dryly. “That is not to say that I was not grieving. Pain is not removed. But grief – it strips you down.”
Is grief, then, a gift? “It is a very, very great mercy. We have contracted death to be a defeat. That is wrong. It connects you with the heart, makes you ask. I, Israel, Ask . . .” She has been criticised for writing O Ahmad. One good friend read it to mean that she supported terrorism.
“But I stood at the funeral and the rabbi read from the prayerbook, and what struck me as odd was all this ‘Avenge, O God . . .’ I stood there and thought ‘What would be my greatest vengeance? For those who have done this to come to Vision! We cannot be, we cannot forgive, unless vision is in our hearts. At the Shiva, our custom when people visit you after the death and bring you food and you talk and cry, his former headmistress was shocked at me. ‘How could you say things like this, when this al-Qaeda person bombs your son!’ I explained. I think she understood.”
The price of grief accumulated; the business faded to near-insolvency.
“I lost the heart to serve it properly. I became detached. I was drawn to sit still, to be available. For the poems to come, you need space. I am seeking,” she concludes, “a new language of love.”
Darknesses still fall on her. “This is necessary. It is for the heart, it moves you to reaffirm the real, and the real reveals it to you afresh. Darknesses can be greeted with courtesy, as respected visitors. You converse and listen and they either acquiesce or flee. In the end you see that all your visitors are love, in disguise. You give yourself to it, like a beggar.”
She rises from the chair, majestic, maternal. “But all is One. By ‘Israel’ I mean our fullest potential; if you love God as one undivided Self, you can love your neighbour, your enemy, even your own deprecated self. This is the Mosaic credo: One God, today. This is real peace, mankind’s utterly reachable greatness. We can unite, because our Self is one.”
We say our goodbyes, and I walk out into the roaring traffic. In the newsagent’s opposite, the 7/7 trial is filling all the headlines with bombs and death.
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