Carolyn Asome
Grab an Italian masterpiece for less
Ready to strip off? Has the no-wheat, no-dairy crash diet finally turned you into a wobble-free Elle Macpherson? Probably not if, like most women, you've left it until five days before your holiday to actually do something. And, unfortunately, doing 100 ab crunches on the morning of your flight will not give you a washboard stomach. Since this is something of an annual ritual, you might as well try to get the swimwear conundrum right, and there other ways to tackle the problem.
Skip the style statement and find something well-cut and supportive that suits your body shape. It all sounds obvious, but you'd be surprised how many of us are tempted by the catwalk one-piece with its cutaway sides and plunge-to-the-navel halternecks that makes even a top model look a little lumpy. Similarly, those Thirties-inspired, boy-cut pieces are never seen outside a fashion shoot - for a very good reason. To avoid the horror of a changing-room mirror and a pasty reflection that hasn't seen sunlight in six months, do a little prep. Have a really good body exfoliation (visit Elemis for its Exotic Lime & Ginger Salt Glow), then a spray tan - the sort done by a beauty therapist such as Susie Lung (07957 771503), who can create the illusion of muscle definition and cheekbones by clever shading.
Other points to consider: a lightly padded halterneck is arguably the most universally flattering style, says Hannah Smith, the manager of the swimwear boutique Biondi, because it lends a great shape to any size bust. For a little more support try a deep halterneck or something with underwiring. Resist the temptation to swaddle yourself in excess layers: boy-shorts (unless you are very slim) will add unnecessary bulk. Actually, the less fabric covering your bottom, the smaller your derrière will appear, and higher-cut legs will make your legs look longer.
Biondi, set up by Claudine Davies, a former swimwear buyer at Harvey Nichols, is a real find for those wanting one-off bikinis and swimsuits. It also has a made-to-measure service, which starts at £250, and a bespoke one, from £350. It's a godsend for women who have had mastectomies or who have scarring. It canalso help out with something creative - one woman surprised her daughter on her 18th birthday with an Ursula Andress-style bikini - and is happy to redesign your old favourite, tweaking details for copyright reasons. There are hundreds of colours, plus different types of beading and tassels to choose from. The process takes four to six weeks (Biondi, 55B Old Church Street, London SW3 5BS; 020-7349 1111; biondicouture.com).
Biondi's guide to what works for different shapes:
Small bust
If you want it to appear fuller, opt for a patterned or floral print - but go
easy on the padding; you don't want it to look too obvious. If padding isn't
your thing but you want to create the illusion of curves, choose a style
with a pattern or stripes.
Big bust
Trying to flatten your bust to make it look smaller never works; instead wear
a substantial bottom half to emphasise your derrière and balance out your
top half. Go for underwired cups, and thick straps set wide apart - these
offer great support.
Wide hips
Ditch the boy-shorts and go for Brazilian high-leg briefs, which cut the
bottom in half. Opt as well for a side tie to hide any bulging. Again, a
patterned top or halterneck draws the eye upwards, away from the hips.
Ensure that the fabric on the bottom half is plain; horizontal stripes,
ruching and shiny fabrics emphasise curves.
Stomach
Some think a one-piece is best for a tummy that you'd rather hide, but if you
have reasonably balanced proportions, a bikini can look just as great. You
can create the illusion of a smaller stomach by highlighting your bust,
pushing it up and forwards.
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