OK, so you have your conflict-free diamond, but how about that band of gold it’s set in? No Dirty Gold (www.nodirtygold.org) is a new campaign to drag the gold-mining industry up to speed, ecologically and ethically.

Mining companies are being accused of taking a cavalier attitude to their social responsibilities, and gold mining does produce a huge amount of waste, up to 20 tonnes for one wedding ring. But this doesn’t necessarily mean all gold miners are evil. Gold has reached a 26-year high price and it may reach $1,000 an ounce in the near future. Because it’s so valuable it’s worth digging up more rock for gold than almost anything else.

No Dirty Gold is a joint venture between Earthworks, a non-profit organisation devoted to protecting communities and the environment from the negative effects of mineral development, and Oxfam America. So what’s their problem? The first is the huge amount of potentially toxic waste that open-pit, industrial-scale gold mining produces, which can have a serious effect on local people and eco-systems. “We’ve seen an increase in the level of conflict between mining companies and communities,” says Keith Slack, the senior policy adviser at Oxfam America. And, during small-scale, artisanal mining, the unprotected use of mercury can be an extreme health hazard.

NGOs such as Earthworks and Oxfam are excellent at finding leverage for their causes, targeting companies with a lot to lose if their public profile is tarnished. So, just before Valentine’s Day this year, No Dirty Gold took out a full-page ad in The New York Times, describing retail jewellers as “leaders” or “laggards”, depending on whether they support the campaign’s aims or ignored their call to action. If you’re looking for a jeweller with a No Dirty Gold seal of approval, Tiffany, Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels are goodies. Deb Witmer, the vice-president of communications for Newmont Mining, counters that, while there are some areas of difference, “many of the stated principles of the No Dirty Gold campaign are in line with what the industry is supporting as well”. She says Newmont is committed to sustainable development and responsible environmental practices and this campaign is focusing on historical issues, rather than looking at realities of mining today. She points out, “It is a business necessity to engage with stakeholders and to address their concerns.”

There is progress. A summit, co-hosted by the Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices (made up of jewellery and mining companies) and the WWF, will take place in Vancouver this month. Negotiations are already under way with mining big boys, BHP Billiton, Newmont Mining and Barrick Gold.

What they are after is a method of verifying compliance, so that a Tiffany or a Cartier can use a gold source that adds human rights and environmental values to a piece of gold jewellery. A trusted system of certification is needed, but they can’t just apply the diamond-relevant Kimberley Process to gold. Each material has a unique chain of custody – what works for diamonds may not work for gold. And some links in the gold chain are pretty secretive, which is why they all must work together.

The next immediate step is to sign up more retailers. So if you’re a jeweller, brace yourself. If you’re not a jeweller, but you care about this stuff, Keith Slack says, “Go to the website and sign our pledge – it’s a call to the jewellery and mining industry, saying we want a cleaner alternative.” You can also go into your local jewellery shop and ask if they know where the gold comes from and if it’s been produced ethically. Recycled gold is available if you don’t want to buy freshly mined gold (visit www.greencarat.com). It doesn’t directly improve mining practices, but if you want to make a stand, it is an option.

Explore Women

• Fashion

• Beauty

• Diet & Fitness

• Relationships

• Families

• Celebrity

• The Way We Live

• Horoscopes

Times recommends

• Live chat: Thrifty ways to update your winter wardrobe
• Is anybody out there really listening?
• Nutrition Q&A: Will eating late make me fat?