Janice Turner
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It is Friday evening at Liverpool Street station, London, and while browsing commuters kill time in WH Smith before their trains, a dozen young women attack a stand of lads’ magazines. Over the covers of Nuts, Zoo, GQ and Loaded — “50 Boobiest Blondes”, “Summer’s real breast fest” — they slip brown paper bags adorned with handwritten slogans: “Don’t be Nuts — get this sexism out of my face”, “Stop mainstreaming porn”, “FHM: For Horrible Misogyny”.
Soon the mags in bags cover a whole shop wall and the women, activists from the feminist group Object, pause exhilarated yet apprehensive, awaiting a response. Mostly people are puzzled. A few men sidle out of the shop. But when Object asks women to sign its petition, to have lads’ mags reclassified as porn and displayed on top shelves, no one refuses. “I never feel comfortable when they’re on the counter in a newsagent’s,” says one woman, clutching a copy of Grazia. Finally the store manager comes over and actually apologises. “I don’t like selling them,” he shrugs, “but it’s company policy.”
A few miles south, in New Cross, a band of residents — mums, teenagers, men too — have gathered on a traffic island outside the White Hart pub, recently restyled as Unique’s Gentlemen’s Club (sic). They are furious that the bar, where strippers in curtained booths perform private dances — £10 topless, £15 fully nude — is in the midst of their homes and three primary schools.
Lewisham Council was appalled too: it rejected the owner Ken Linwood’s application. But he just took it to Bromley magistrates, who overrode the earlier ruling. Robin Cross, a Labour councillor, shakes his head at the bitter irony. It was his party, under the initiative of Tessa Jowell, that brought in the Licensing Act 2003, allowing pubs to turn into strip joints, without requiring a change to their licence. Moreover the Government has just bunged New Cross £45 million in urban regeneration grants to bring up this impoverished area. “But this seedy club is just taking it down again!” Cross says. “And there is nothing we can do.”
Both these protests set me thinking: how did it come to this? When the lads’ weekly magazines were launched five years ago where were the voices arguing that titles with 30 pairs of breasts an issue and a harsh misogynist tone — “Win your girlfriend a boob job” — were pornography and had no place on a newsagent’s sweet counter? And why, when legislation was introduced that has permitted 300 lap-dancing clubs to set up in Britain, giving the sex industry a franchise on many high streets, did no one speak out? Judging from the commuters at Liverpool Street, and the countless drivers who beeped their approval in New Cross, I’d wager that the majority of British people are unhappy about the invasion of porn culture into our everyday lives. So why the silence? And why, above all, did feminism so spectacularly lose the plot?
Almost every day, I’m flabbergasted by things that I’d call sexist, although I know this very word makes me officially 100 years old. Like this year, when Wimbledon officials allocated Centre Court matches to women players based not on whether they were top seeds, but top totty. Or when a teenage girl, who is my Facebook friend, receives a message saying: “You are sooo gorgeous, I want to rape you.” As a compliment — from another girl! Or when I watch Gok Wan and wonder when the apogee of female empowerment became agreeing to parade naked on TV.
It is all so wrong-headed, so retrograde, so screwed up. But is it only me, Ms Ranty-Pants, and my generation who care? Why do younger women seem largely oblivious? So I decide to meet up with a half a dozen twentysomethings, all graduates with decent jobs, to probe their consciousness. Over a bottle of wine, I first ask if any of them see themselves as a feminist. Only one replies yes. “I’ve never really related to it,” says Carlene, 26. “It’s always portrayed as this Sixties bra-burning thing.” The only feminist they can think of is Julie Bindel, the radical lesbian writer. Feminism means no fun or make-up, anger and hating men. It is a broken brand, not needed now. As one put it: “All the battles are won.”
Harriet Harman clearly doesn’t think so. Last week, Labour’s Deputy Leader raised the standard for sexual equality in The Sunday Times, enthusing about plans to organise a “Gender 20” summit for women leaders to run alongside the maledominated G20, and saying “men cannot be left to run things on their own”. According to the Daily Mail, she was derided as “bonkers” by one Cabinet colleague for her “feminist outburst”.
Rosa, 26, says: “I admire Harriet Harman because she’s not scared to talk about these things and it’s seen as so unsexy and so uncool. And if you look at the Daily Mail, you’d think that she’s the worst person in the world; it can get away with talking in such a sexist way. In lots of ways, the racism debate is far ahead of the sexist debate because you can’t get away with the equivalent in racism now.”
I ask what the group think of the rise of lap dancing and am intrigued that what concerns them is not the morality of the sex industry, whether it is innately degrading for women to show their vaginas to men for money. Their only criteria is whether the women are adequately rewarded. If a job pays well enough, it transcends judgment. “I think there is a market for it,” says Rosie, 26, who works for a charity, “so sadly it is always going to be there.”
Rosa, a TV camera operator, adds: “Lap-dancing clubs have become so normalised, we don’t even question them any more.”
These are truly boomtime girls, part of that first generation to beat boys at A level, outnumber them at university and often out-earn them in the workplace. A decade of national prosperity won them that feminist ideal: economic equality. But, as Professor Michael Sandel argued in his recent Reith Lectures, we have allowed expanding markets to define our moral limits. Certainly with lap-dancing clubs, as with 24-hour drinking and liberalised gambling laws, the question for new Labour was never whether these were desirable to us as a society, only do people want them, is there demand? If the answer is yes, they must be good. And those who oppose them must, by definition, be anti-populist fun-suckers.
And during the boom years, the language of women’s liberation was ransacked by companies trying to flog us stuff. Suddenly feminism wasn’t about rights or social advances, but shopping. Self-worth now came in a shampoo bottle — “Because you’re worth it”.
Liberation was brunch and designer bags as in Sex and the City. As Maureen Dowd, the US columnist, put it: “Feminism has been replaced by narcissism.”
The most unlikely things are now classed as “empowering”: buying shoes, taking a pole-dancing class, having a boob job, sending a snap of your breasts to Nuts magazine, entering one of the beauty contests newly revived across British campuses. That these are the kind of dumb-ass submissive practices long performed for male view, is, it seems, coincidental. Feminism 2009 means acting out male masturbation fantasies — because you want to.
You may think that I am ignoring here the many notable women in British public life. Yet while there are female CEOs and politicians, it has never been made clearer to a woman that, whatever her other talents and achievements, her true capital lies in her body. Twenty years ago, no commentator ever (publicly) discussed Mrs Thatcher’s figure or even, much, her clothes. But now how women who are public figures look frequently overshadows their work: too frumpy, too tarty, too plain wrong. So never mind that Harriet Harman is demanding that an investigation into how the justice system treats rape victims should have a wider brief; just check out her garish jacket and her Dame Edna magenta specs.
As for younger celebrities, they can forget their gold medals, Oscars and PhDs. The only question that matters is: are you “hot” enough to look good in a basque? Often it seems female stars play the raunch game to mitigate against their success, to appear less threatening, more biddable, to men. But it is not only women who are properly recompensed for flashing their wares who are expected to perform. Very young girls — even the A-starred GCSE candidates at fancy private schools — now measure themselves against how well they fit into a particular aesthetic: skinny, full breasts, long hair, full lips and an utterly hair-free body. As several writers — Ariel Levy and Pamela Paul — have noted, this look and its raunchy always-up-for-it countenance comes direct from the porn industry, which has seeped into mainstream life through all those lap-dancing clubs and lads magazines but, most particularly, through the internet.
More than 25,000 users of Bebo, the social networking site, use “slut” in their usernames, according to research by Dr Jessica Ringrose, an educational academic. “Hi I’m Daniella And I Like It Up The Bum” is typical of the taglines she came across among girls as young as 13.
If old-school feminists protest against this pornification, we are accused of being anti-sex, not groovy enough to enter that 24/7 pleasuredome of modern youth culture. But what is strange and shocking is how women’s own sexual pleasure is seldom mentioned. The female orgasm, the clitoris, barely get a shout-out. From the lie-back-and-think-of-England days, when sex was something men did to women, today it is perceived as something women perform for men. Girls pride themselves in how well they give head and handjobs, such as the singer Kelis, whose “milkshake brings all the boys to the yard”. And anal sex, that Act 4 of every porn movie, which gives little female pleasure and often much pain, is now firmly in the sexual repertoire of many 16-year-old girls.
It is their choice, you might say, how they want to look, to act, to make love. Quite so. Yet if women are allowed to be whatever they want to be, why is the template of female beauty more restricted and savagely policed than ever before?
The psychologist Suzie Orbach, in her new book Bodies, remarks that in the 1960s food disorders were relatively rare, part of some greater problem. Now every young woman she encounters has a food disorder: it is a given, part of the body self-hatred that is now accepted as the female condition. Lately even the Girl Guides Association has expressed grave concern about the body phobias of its young members.
Today’s pornified aesthetic is so narrow that it not only excludes the fat and old, but demands drastic adjustments even from lovely young women. On TV makeover shows, such as 10 Years Younger and The Swan, women are paraded and their shortcomings discussed, until they consent to painful operations. Is this liberation or even choice? What is absent, certainly, is any discussion about whether promoting (highly profitable) plastic surgery clinics on mainstream television is ethical, let alone constitutes abuse of women.
Even in the mid-1990s it seemed that some kind of truce had been declared in the sex wars. Natasha Walter’s book The New Feminism was almost complacent about the progress in employment, political representation and personal relationships women could expect. And I recall a discussion back then that Page 3 of The Sun might be dropped because, maybe, it was an anachronism. Yet within years Nuts and Zoo brought forth a slew of images far more explicit and degrading since, unlike tabloids that have women readers, they seek to please only young men.
How did we let this happen? Perhaps we had all become a bit po-faced and felt that we’d achieved enough to relax. Humour burst through the political correctness initially in Loaded magazine, which — unlike the breastfest it later became — celebrated a blokeish, not unattractive, Nick Hornby-ish masculinity, obsessed with vintage British comedy stars and pub gags. Suddenly men who’d have thought twice about calling women “chicks” or “birds” could do so under the cloak of irony and be thought witty and daring. Women lightened up. Who wants to be a prig or a killjoy?
But over time that irony became a cloak for what has been termed “retrosexism”: modern attitudes that mimic or glorify sexist attitudes of the past;. sexual politics as defined by Detective Gene Hunt from Life on Mars.
Meanwhile, the sex industry was upgrading its image. Before the Nineties stripjoints were dives that no professional man would admit to frequenting. But the clubs found that they could stop paying their lap dancers and instead charge them for the right to work. With this new business model the clubs could smarten their decor and become ritzy enough to attract young City guys and their corporate clients. Now distanced from sleaze, the clubs represented hedonism, glamour, freedom.
This not only legitimised lap dancing as a wing of the leisure industry but made life uncomfortable, even unbearable, for women in the City who felt obliged to go along to these clubs or miss out on deals. The Fawcett Society is trying to address this by asking companies to agree to a charter promising not to use the sex trade for corporate hospitality: BT, Barclays and Matrix Chambers have already signed.
But retrosexism was perhaps the wrong word. As the academic Rosalind Gill has pointed out, in raunch culture women are not passive sexual objects, but active, even voracious agents. Or so they appear. Mostly, though, they are acting out the scripts, the exaggerated desires of pornography.
When porn lived on the top shelf it was clearly fantasy, removed from real relationships. But once porn was omnipresent it suddenly gave the appearance of being true. Porn has “groomed” young women until they don’t even address their own pleasure. Instead they are expected to get off on men getting off on them.
For example, in my focus group, Chloe, 26, remarked: “I hate it when two women in clubs kiss for the benefit of men who are watching.” The others all nodded: they see this faux bisexual act constantly. Lesbian action is a staple of porn, since it allows men the bonus of two pairs of breasts and watching sexual activity without the straight male discomfort of seeing a penis.
All the women in the group too, even the one self-professed feminist, said that they shave or wax their genitals, a practice now considered a matter of hygiene or “neatness”, but historically one that emanates from the US porn industry. Earlier feminists wanted women to be content with their bodies, not feel that they must depilate to resemble prepubescent girls. But these young women have never challenged the painful rituals. Bodily hair was such a source of horror that even a young feminist author who I interviewed said that she’d never swim if her legs weren’t smooth. And one of my focus group e-mailed me saying that she’d had a nightmare in which her body hair grew unstoppably. Sisters, what is the big hairy deal?
After the debate most of them agreed that they’d thought about some issues for the first time. Yet when a survey was published recently showing women’s declining mental health in the past 30 years the conclusion, in the headlines at least, was that this was the fault of feminism. Where, I thought, is this feminism? While America has maintained a tradition of feminist writers and thinkers, including Naomi Wolf and Katie Roiphe, where are the young women questioning the orthodoxy here?
There has not been a single influential feminist book published this decade. There is the odd young subversive voice — Beth Ditto, Lily Allen, daring to write a song Not Fair suggesting that women need pleasing in bed too — but these are marginalised and derided. Only the young women from Object — who are not, for the record, ugly or man-hating and like make-up, fashion and fun — are hammering their cause.
Maybe women’s mental health is damaged by the absence of feminism: the negative, hateful and omnipresent messages that our bodies are ugly, our choices wrong, our mothering inadequate. We need to debate whether we want a society in which a new lap-dancing club opens every week, where little girls grow up believing that their life’s work is tending to their bodies and the sex industry is allowed to wash through our culture unchecked, so our young have their nascent sexuality defined by the grinding industrial genitals of porn. Feminism has slumbered too long: it is high time it woke up.
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