EVERY man of any note, from Charles Dickens to Charles de Gaulle and Cary Grant to Jude Law, has had a Savile Row suit made to measure.

Bespoke tailors in cluttered workshops on this famous London street have been handsewing suits for royals, statesmen, film stars and men of distinction and style for almost two centuries.

But the existence of Savile Row’s tailors has been threatened by a 50 per cent rent rise in the past ten years, fuelled by the desire of upmarket clothes stores to cash in on the street’s reputation.

The Times has learnt, however, that planners at Westminster City Council are planning to act to save Savile Row from the curse of chain-store uniformity that threatens to blight every high street in Britain.

In a report to be published today, the council outlines how it will block attempts to turn the workshops into retail outlets.

Hackett, Duffer of St George and Jil Sander have experimented with Savile Row stores, the denim label Evisu has an outlet and the Abercrombie & Fitch brand is opening soon.

But officials believe that because tailoring is classified as a light industrial activity they can refuse future “change of use” applications from retail chains. The initiative should keep rents under control because industrial premises command lower sums than retail or office space.

Westminster may also tighten regulations controlling development in the Mayfair conservation area and register tailors’ workshops as listed buildings.

The council’s policy states: “Planning permission will not be granted for development that results in the loss of Central London Activities . . . where these activities contribute to its character and function”.

The policy in effect sets out to establish a business heritage zone and mirrors steps already taken to preserve the character of Harley Street. Other distinctive streets in London and around the country — such as Chinatown districts, Jermyn Street or Portobello Road — might also qualify for protection.

“Savile Row has a reputation for excellence that many others in the clothing industry can only dream about, and we want to ensure that it stays that way,” said Angela Hooper, chairman of Westminster’s planning committee.

“It is in the interest of the tailors that Savile Row is seen as an attractive, high-class location and it is in the interests of the landlords that the unique heritage and the pre-eminence of the street is maintained.”

The council is in discussion with both businesses and landlords in Savile Row. Several properties are owned by the Pollen Estate in which the Church Commissioners have a 65 per cent interest.

Mark Henderson, chairman of the campaign group Savile Row Bespoke, said tailoring should be promoted as a “cultural, historical and creative component of London”, which earned prestige for the capital. “It’s very easy to portray bespoke tailoring as a couple of old craftsmen who are dying out but that’s not the case,” said Mr Henderson, who is also chief executive of Gieves & Hawkes.

Savile Row attracts customers from around the world — including designers such as Tom Ford and the late Gianni Versace — and its tailors travel extensively.

“If ever there was a street that deserved an award for exporting then it’s Savile Row,” said Thomas Mahon a Savile Row-trained tailor who now runs English Cut. “If the bespoke businesses were driven out by crappy retail stores selling poor quality clothes, then Savile Row’s name would be irreparably damaged.”

SUITS YOU, SIR

Rents on Savile Row rose by 52 per cent between 1997 and 2004; in Soho they rose by 100 per cent

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