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SLICKED-BACK HAIR
The Croydon face-lift, otherwise known as a ponytail so tight it may bring on a headache, is having a catwalk moment. Seen everywhere from Dolce & Gabbana to Lanvin, Gucci to Balenciaga, slicked-back hair is the fuss-free style for summer.
You could say it is the Lady Sovereign effect —- the catwalk ponytails are a sleeker take on the rapper’s signature look. But it may also be down to our overwhelming obsession with youth. After all, who wouldn’t want a lift without the invasive surgery or hospital downtime?
“It is a strong, simple look that is sharp and chic,” says Neil Moodie, the European editorial director for Bumble and Bumble, who suggests spritzing a light hairspray onto a natural bristle brush, then using it to smooth back the hair from the face and up into a ponytail. Secure using bungee bands and spritz with a silicone-based spray for a high-gloss shine.
Star buys L’Oréal Elnett hairspray, from £2, from Boots. Bumble and Bumble Shine Spray, £27; 020 7836 0818. Blax bungee bands, £3.50; www.hqhair.com.
NUDE EYEBROWS
The fashion world has long revered the bleached brow. The quirky model Kristen McMenamy pioneered the look in the 1990s, and Karen Elson rocketed to fame when Steven Meisel shot her for the cover of Italian Vogue complete with flame-red hair and shaved eyebrows. Now, the designers Viktor & Rolf have sent their models onto the catwalk with white brows teamed with minimalist hair and make-up.
“Nude brows instantly draw attention to the shape of your eyes and mouth and can either have a very contemporary feel or give an Elizabethan look,” says the make-up artist Alex Box, who created the looks on these pages.
Achieving the look is simple: cover the hairs with facial-hair bleach for a few minutes and then remove. If they are left with an orange tinge, apply purple hair toner (generally used to prevent blonde hair turning brassy) to neutralise the colour.
Star buys Jolen Regular Cream Bleach, £4.40, from Boots. L’Oréal Professional Série Expert Shine Blonde Shampoo, £8.95; 0800 072 6699
JAGGED BOB
Among the usual catwalk Rapunzels, the models who stood out this season were those with hair shorn to their ear lobes or higher. Austere bobs with micro-fringes worthy of a Playmobil figure were seen on the runways at Aquascutum, Lanvin and Anna Molinari.
The most directional cut of the season was the angular, bobbed wig created by Eugene Souleiman for the Yohji Yamamoto show. A sort of Louise Brooks for the noughties, it had all the gloss and strength of the silent film actress’s iconic bob, but the jagged edges gave it a cooler, kookier feel. “It is a modern take on a classic bob,” says the session hairstylist Stephen Low, who worked on the Yohji show and styled the hair for this shoot. “Although it is a theatrical style, it is one that you could actually wear.”
Star buys The key is to visit a salon that specialises in directional cuts. Try Taylor Taylor (020 7377 2737) or Tommy Gunns (020 7739 2244), and make sure you wear your bob smooth and straight, or the no-messing effect will be lost.
PRECIOUS METALS
“Although metallics are usually considered a winter thing, they really come alive in the summer because they reflect the light,” says Box.
She isn’t the only one who thinks so. At Prada, Pat McGrath decorated eyes with an irregular smear of gold cream eye shadow; at Chanel, there was a striking molten combination: bluish silver on the upper lids and yellow gold beneath the eye; and at Biba, Charlotte Tilbury combined ethereal silver panda eyes with futuristic steel-grey brows.
Gold and silver are great for razzle-dazzle, but copper, pewter and bronze are flattering alternatives. Try powder shadows for a stronger look, or build colour subtly with creamy shadows smudged on with a fingertip.
Star buys Chanel Lumière d’Artifices iridescent eye and cheek powder, £29; 020 7493 3836. Urban Decay Deluxe Eyeshadow in Shag, £12, from Boots. Benefit Creaseless Cream Shadow/Liner in Skinny Jeans, £13, out on April 14, from Harrods; 020 7730 1234. Nars Duo Cream Eyeshadow in Madagascar, £23, from Selfridges; 0870 837 7377
PINK LIPS
“Whether it’s plastic pop or classic Roxy Music (ie punky), pink is turned up loud this season,” says Box.
Indeed, pink lipstick in its many variations was, without a doubt, the most joyous make-up trend on the catwalks. For maximum impact, louder shades work best: take the fuchsia at Diane von Furstenberg, the bubble- gum pink at Proenza Schouler or the raspberry at Anna Sui as inspiration.
According to Box, the colour should be “vibrant, fecund and wanton”. For the ripe finish seen here, she suggests powdering lips to prevent bleeding before applying lipstick, then blotting. Repeat this process and finish with “as much gloss as gravity permits”. Keep the rest of the face neutral with a pale base and just a slick of mascara to accentuate the effect.
Star buys Nars Lipstick in Schiap, £17, from Selfridges; 0870 837 7377. Mac Lipstick in Impassioned, £11; www.maccosmetics.com. Boots 17 Smooth Matt Lipstick in Hot Cerise, £4
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