The science of skin

Someone once asked me why I don’t have more skincare science in my column. My answer is that, first, it’s boring; and second, it’s often dissembling exaggeration. How do I know this? Well, how about the findings of the magazine Consumer Reports (the American version of Which?). It blind-tested a whole bunch of best-selling antiageing products over three months last year, and found that no cream altered wrinkles by more than 10%. A recent BBC2 Horizon programme, Professor Regan’s Beauty Parlour, came to similar conclusions. Antiageing skincare is a misnomer — nothing save Botox, fillers or a face-lift is going to reverse the relentless wizening caused by age. You can delay it by using a sunscreen of at least SPF15 every day, but nothing in a jar will erase those wrinkles.

The fact is, skincare companies tailor science to their own ends. Every time I go to a skincare launch there’s a different theory as to what is important in the skin’s function and what causes ageing, from the activity of the fibroblasts to the degeneration of collagen. Surely, if science produced concrete, dependable facts rather than a series of competing ideologies, there would be one explanation for ageing and one description of what is important in the functioning of the skin.

I decided to do my own scientific test: to ask every skincare-company representative I met a simple question. Namely, how much of their product actually migrates into the bloodstream after you apply it to the skin. I got 10 different responses from 10 different companies: the organic and natural companies claimed that 60% of what is put on the skin enters the bloodstream. Others said 5%, some said 1%, some 0.01%, some said only fat-soluble substances penetrate the skin’s surface and some said that absolutely nothing penetrates the skin. Who to believe? Answers on a postcard, please.

So, when you approach a beauty counter and are blinded by the science of a new antiageing cream, remember this: it is likely to be science fiction rather than science fact. Do as I do: ignore the biochemical gymnastics and judge each product on whether it works. And remember: “working” will never mean the total or even partial obliteration of wrinkles.

Soft focus

A crepy décolleté has never been exactly seductive, which is presumably why the kinky Coco de Mer emporium now stocks In Fiore Luxury Balm Décolleté. It is a buttery blend of evening primrose and rosehip oils that softens the skin and adds a come-hither sheen. £35; www.coco-de-mer.co.uk

Double act

Not only is YSL’s Lip Twins Lip Duo Satin/Shine SPF8 so damn good-looking that you can’t help but covet it, but the fuchsia and orange lip shades inside are this season’s hottest colours. You’ll have to wait until April 28 to get one, but it is most definitely worth it. £21; 01444 255700

Smell the flowers

Caron’s Violette Précieuse is an incredibly pretty violet-based scent that retains the bloom’s effervescent quality without the sometimes sickly sweet note. £39 for 50ml; 020 7730 1234

Ice man

Ideal for men with dry skin who can’t be bothered to apply body lotion after every shower, the Bella Bellissima Perfect Man Alternative Glacial Mist Body Hydrator is a moisturiser that takes seconds to apply and leaves behind a cool, clean scent. £28; 0870 837 7377

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