Saving face

I'm a big fan of natural skincare. It's a joy to use, it smells wonderful, is kind both to skin and the environment ­ and is invariably manufactured by really nice people with admirable principles. That said, since I entered my forties, one thing has become increasingly clear: there is a limit to what you can achieve with faith and rosewater alone. If you want concrete results ­ ie, to improve the appearance of ageing skin ­ there's only one way forward: cold, hard science.

A few weeks ago, my suspicions were confirmed when a study by a group of US university researchers found that retinol made a real difference to the appearance of ageing skin. Since then, my inbox has been besieged by the marketing departments of retinol-based cream manufacturers, all keen to have me try ­ and, of course, endorse ­ their products.

The truth is, there is only one way of finding out whether something works for you, and that is to try it. At the beginning of the year, I tried the famous Boots No 7 Protect and Perfect (£16.75), the retinol-based cream that sparked a consumer frenzy when it featured on the BBC's Horizon programme. In that study, it came out trumps. However, when I conducted my own trial, my skin became progressively uncomfortable and dehydrated, finally breaking out in red patches ­ not so much a miracle as a disaster.

So, it was with some trepidation that I approached pH Advantage, a range of "cosmeceuticals" devised by US plastic surgeon Barry Cohen. This is not an easy range to get your head around. Terms such as "glycolic" and "hydroquinone" may be standard fare for the doctor's home market, but are probably meaningless to the majority of British women.

Nevertheless, I persisted. I used a combination of Kinetin Ultra (£85) and AM/PM 45% Hyaluronic Infusion (£75). The former, a cream designed to reduce the appearance of freckles, age spots, redness and the like, employs kinetin, an antioxidant originally discovered in green leaves, which acts to slow down the deterioration of plant cells. The latter, a serum with a delightful texture, makes the skin feel comfortable and elastic, and maximises the efficacy of the cream.

Not only did my skin appear more even in tone and texture, it also looked plump and dewy. Then, horror of horrors, I went on holiday, forgot to take it with me and had to use some "normal" moisturiser. Within days, my face felt tight and dehydrated and my skin experienced the equivalent of going cold turkey. Oh, yes. Only the men in white coats can save me now.

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