Cults are funny things. You think you’re dabbling in a little harmless adoration, then you find yourself living in a pair of tie-dyed knickers, worshipping a polymorphic deity who knits his own nose hair. It’s the same with beauty products. What starts as a contained crush often spreads like wildfire. I know all about this: the first time I tried Ren Monoi Moisturising Body Rinse, I’d have happily signed away half my earnings – and my allegiance to chocolate – in veneration of its existence.

Cult beauty products exert an unrivalled hold over us, and in a saturated cosmetics market, it’s little wonder that women should stick to the assured high-achievers.

Compared with the latest products, which often arrive accompanied by lots of media hype, true cult cosmetics are ones that have stood the test of time. They’re used long after the latest “miracle” cream has come and gone into the bin; they are also products that create new categories within the beauty industry, inspiring rival brands to create copies; and they’re the things you never knew you needed until they were invented – John Frieda Frizz-Ease, Lancôme Juicy Tubes and Clarins Beauty Flash Balm, for example.

But how does a product achieve cult status? And how does it hold on to the top spot in an industry that bombards us with new products every time we blink? “A cult product earns its reputation through performance; it’s not marketing-driven,” says Nicky Kinnaird, the founder of Space NK. “It needs to be truly original, effective and best in class.”

And in a mark of democracy, cult cosmetics don’t always come with a high price tag. They are more a celebration of an original – and well-executed – idea. So, alongside Chanel Rouge Noir nail and lip colours, you might find Olay beauty fluid or the catwalk hairstylist’s pick, Elnett hairspray. “Cult products retain their status by consumers consistently repeat-purchasing,” says Karen Wells, the head of beauty at Selfridges. “An initial sellout doesn’t mean that the item will continue to hold this status in the eye of the consumer. Slow-burners can have sales longevity.”

Check the consistent top sellers in stores across the globe to get a true picture of what really works. “We’ve sold up to 50,000 units of a beauty product in one day,” says Fay Douglas, the head of buying, fashion and beauty at QVC, “but what makes something a bestseller is its ability to sustain decent sales volumes for years after its launch.”

If a product is genuinely revolutionary, a crop of imitations will soon hit the shelves, but nothing will knock the original off its perch. These formulas cannot be improved upon (note: antiageing creams are never cult, as they are constantly being upgraded). Cult products are the ones you can rely on, the ones you turn to time and again, which stand the passing of the years and the whims of fancy. If only everything in life were so dependable.

TIPPED FOR THE TOP

1 Nude Cleansing Facial Oil When it launched, Nude outsold many big brands. This 100% natural cleanser is a beauty editor’s favourite. £28; 0800 634 4366

2 Philips Sonicare toothbrush Voted one of CNN’s ‘five inventions to change your life’ it whitens teeth and cleans like nothing you’ve ever experienced. From £70, from Boots

3 By Terry Light Expert Everything a beauty product should be, this complexion corrector transforms the face with minimal effort. Think Photoshop in a brush. £38; www.spacenk.com

4 Trilogy Everything Balm This lush healing and repairing balm sold out across the UK on launch and remains in high demand. £18.95; www.hqhair.com

5 Max Factor Miracle Touch This foolproof, all-in-one formula has the coverage of a solid foundation but the lightness of a liquid. £11.95

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