Every time a new “miracle” cream launches, you can’t help but wonder if it
might work, whether it costs £10 or £250. Take Boots No 7 Protect &
Perfect Beauty Serum. A Horizon documentary earlier this year reported that
this £16.75 potion was the real deal. Result: it sold out overnight. (My
testers had mixed views on it, showing that skincare products can yield
quite individual responses, no matter what the “experts” say.)
The bottom line is, if you’ve spent half your life sunbathing, smoking and
drinking, no cream will turn back the skin clock. If, on the other hand, you
have the first signs of ageing – lines, pigmentation, dull skin – but you
don’t live too debauched a lifestyle, creams can help. That said, they must
contain active ingredients in therapeutic doses, and you must use them for
months to see results.
A recent study at the University of Michigan showed that retinol (a derivative
of vitamin A), applied in a 0.4% lotion, had an effect after six months.
That is a higher concentration than is usually used in beauty creams, and in
any case not the sort of disclosure you’d find on a label, as companies are
secretive about formulations. But all you really need to know is that
vitamin A derivatives, in whatever concentration, are a good thing because
they repair the skin and increase the production of collagen and
water-retaining glycosaminoglycan.
In fact, the perfect anti-ageing routine is straightforward. It’s about
protection and repair: sun protection and antioxidants in the morning,
peptides and vitamin A derivatives to repair at night.
Does price matter? The view that all you pay for is marketing and packaging is
partly true, though there are other factors that determine cost, including
patents, ingredients and testing. However, just because a cream is
expensive, that doesn’t mean it will perform better. Here’s your guide to
what really works.
DAY CARE
Protect with sunscreen
“The gold standard of antiageing skincare would be to apply SPF 30 every day,”
says the consultant dermatologist Susan Mayou.
“There’s a study that shows sunscreen not only protects from further sun
damage, but leads to improvement in terms of elastin degeneration and
stopping pigmentation getting worse – evidence of reversal of photo-damage
[sun damage], in effect.”
Most of us won’t be so conscientious, even though sunscreen is a wonder cream
as far as antiageing is concerned. As well as using sun lotion on holiday,
we might manage to use a daily moisturiser with built-in SPF 15 protection.
That should protect from any accidental exposure to sunshine, but the SPF
number mostly refers to protection from UVB rays, which are minimal in
winter. UVA, which penetrates deeper into the skin and passes through
windows, is more of a threat in terms of ageing. While there is some UVA
protection in most moisturisers containing sunscreen, what isn’t clear is
the level of protection and whether it is adequate. There are a number of
reasons for that, including a lack of both standard testing methods and of a
consensus about what minimum levels should be (in beach-type sun-protection
products, the EU guideline is a 1:3 ratio of UVA to UVB protection).
The best advice is to use moisturiser containing sunscreen, because it’s
better than nothing; or you can be ultra-cautious and apply daily a
broad-spectrum sunscreen that works under make-up (don’t forget your neck,
chest and hands). Try Clarins UV Plus Protective Day Screen SPF 40 (£25) or
Clinique City Block Sheer SPF 15 (£12.50). Both are oil-free. And look out
for the leading dermatologist Dr Nick Lowe’s new range in Boots. His Super
Charged SPF 15 Day Cream (£16.95) has high UVA and UVB protection, and
contains antioxidants.
Added defence: antioxidants
While sunscreen is key, UV rays will always get through to break down collagen
and elastin in your skin, so antioxidants can provide another protective
layer during the day. They are also a good bet if you smoke or work in a
polluted city – research has shown that they mop up damage caused by free
radicals stimulated by sunlight, pollution and cigarette smoke. It is
thought that a cocktail of antioxidants is more beneficial than high doses
of just one type – look out for labels that list coenzyme Q10, ferulic acid,
green tea, pomegranate, resveratrol (from grapes) and vitamins C and E in
the ingredients.
Where to find them Caudalie Vinoperfect Day Perfecting Cream SPF 15,
£33; 00 800 4429 2424. Zelens Skin Science Cellular DNA Protection Day
Cream, £135, from Space NK. Nivea Visage Anti-wrinkle Q10 Day Cream, £6.79.
Skinceuticals C E Ferulic serum, £60; 020 8997 8541.
Before bed
Time for repair
Look out for the following ingredients in night creams. Generally, you won’t
find all of them in one cream, or at least not as active ingredients, so
it’s a case of picking one and seeing how you get on. Remember, it can often
take months to see the results.
Top of the class: vitamin A
Vitamin A derivatives, known as retinoids, found fame in the dermatologist’s
office as acne treatments, but their antiwrinkle benefits were also noted.
There’s now hard evidence that they repair photo-damage. Mayou says: “As a
dermatologist, I rate retinoids. Tretinoin, branded Retin-A, is one that I
prescribe. In America, tazarotene, another retinoid [brand name Zorac], is
also licensed for photo-damage. Here, it’s licensed only for psoriasis,
though dermatologists can prescribe off licence.”
Prescriptions can sometimes be slipped through the NHS, though usually you
would need a private prescription. While you have to factor in the
consultation (£90-£200), the creams are less expensive than you might think.
A private prescription for Retin-A costs around £10 (yes, that’s £10 for an
anti-wrinkle cream that really works). There is, however, a downside:
prescription-strength retinoids can irritate the skin – so much so that the
dryness, redness and peeling initially caused can make you want to stop
using them. You may be able to get around this by trying a weaker
concentration, or by using them just twice a week to build up tolerance.
Milder forms of retinoids are found in over-the-counter beauty creams.
Although they are not as strong, that doesn’t mean they won’t work. They can
still irritate sensitive skin, in which case move on to peptides (below).
Pure retinol is used by RoC, the first company to stabilise this
sun-sensitive ingredient and deliver it in packaging designed to keep it
active. Others use a less potent form that doesn’t require special
packaging, but still has an effect, such as the derivative used in No 7
Protect & Perfect. Chris Griffiths, professor of dermatology at the
University of Manchester, says: “At basic scientific and clinical levels,
Boots No 7 Protect & Perfect has been shown to repair photo-aged skin
and to improve the fine wrinkles associated with photo-ageing.”
Where to find it Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Gold Ultra Restorative
Capsules, £52 for 60. L’Oréal Dermo Expertise Revitalift AntiWrinkle Night,
£12.99. RoC Retin-Ox Plus Night, £24.95. MD Formulations Vit-A-Plus
AntiAging Lotion, £45; www.hqhair.com.
Next: peptides
The importance of peptides was discovered in 1992, as part of research into
the healing of wounds. When assaulted, the skin starts a damage-limitation
process; then the mending process beings, and the peptides initiate collagen
repair. Peptides in anti-ageing skincare plump up the skin, keeping
it youthful and springy, and smooth away fine lines. Olay compared peptides
with a retinol product over four months and found a similar performance in
the reduction of wrinkle depth. In addition, peptides don’t irritate the
skin.
Where to find them Olay Regenerist Night Cream, £19.50. Estée Lauder
Perfectionist (CP+) Correcting Serum, £42. Nude Skincare Advanced Smoothing
Complex, £48; 0800 634 4366. Lancôme Rénergie Morpholift Rare, £51.
Want more? Vitamin C
As well as being a lower-concentration anti-oxidant, in higher concentrations,
vitamin C (on the label as ascorbic acid) is thought to stimulate collagen
growth, which smoothes out lines. It also inhibits melanin production, which
fades sun spots, so it’s worth trying if you have pigmentation. Make sure
you use sunscreen to stop the problem getting worse.
Vitamin C can be unstable and, on exposure to air, can become inactive, but
most cosmetic companies have perfected delivery systems that ensure it is
absorbed. It’s worth noting that it works slowly – you could be looking at
six months to see results.
Where to find it Philosophy Hope and a Prayer Topical Vitamin C Powder,
£28; 0870 990 8452. Alpha-H Vital C, £55, from John Lewis. Skin Wisdom Age
Delay Vitamin C Youth Boost Serum, £7.97, from Tesco (from October 22).
Vitage Vitamin C Serum, £45, and Mask, £24; 0845 555 2121.
Also: alpha and beta hydroxy acids
Glycolic acid, lactic acid and salicylic acid, found in night creams and
exfoliating kits, have all been shown to stimulate collagen production. They
increase cell turnover, which makes your skin look fresher and allows other
ingredients to penetrate slightly deeper into the skin’s upper layers. As
with retinoids, dermatologist-strength acids are used in facial peels (they
can use up to 99% glycolic-acid concentration, while beauty therapists use
about 25%) and the milder beauty-cream versions, which are more likely to
contain 5%-10%. Even that can irritate sensitive skin. Lactic acid is the
mildest – an entry level, as it were. Don’t indulge if you use retinoid
creams, as these acids can make skin supersensitive and won’t give any extra
benefits – go for one or the other.
Where to find them L’Oréal Renoviste Anti-Ageing Glycolic Peel Kit, £18.99.
Ren Glycolactic Skin Renewal Peel Mask, £28. Dermalogica Night Bright,
£35.60. Clinique Turnaround Concentrate, £30.
SKIN SAVERS: THESE WORK
Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Gold Ultra Restorative Capsules, £52
Alpha-H Vital C, £55, from John Lewis
Dermalogica Night Bright, £35.60
ClarinsUV Plus Protective Day Screen SPF 40, £25
Nude Skincare Advanced Smoothing Complex, £48
Dr Nick Lowe Super Charged SPF 15 Day Cream, £16.95
Asta, Ren Clean Skincare is a London-based range I use. They're free of all parabens, sulfates, TEA, DEA, PABAs, urea, phthalates, glycols, aluminium, nitrates etc etc... totally organic plant-derived goodness, with a total non-animal-testing policy (and no third party testing) etc - they're fantastic and you can buy online if you're in Germany!
People will never seem to learn that no matter what you have in your skincare range, if you coat your skin in carcinogenic, poisonous, extremely toxic preservatives/ colourings/ fragrances/ etc - bearing in mind up to 70% of what you put on your skin is absorbed into your body - you will NOT look younger, it will simply age you faster and leave you with all manner of horrific illnesses and skin conditions.
If you wouldn't eat it, then don't put it on your skin. Simple.
Erin, Bognor, England
My grandmother looked sixty still in her nineties, people used to think she was my mother when we walked down the street together. She was gorgeous, hip and a lot of fun. Her legs were shapely with lovely thin ankles and her face was almost wrinkless (at ninety!!). People were convinced that she must have had cosmetic surgery. But no, she was just naturally youthful. She used Pond's cosmetics. I think her beauty was down to good genes and a lot of sleep; she always slept at least 7 hours a night and took a catnap during the afternoon. Her motto was: everything in moderation.
Anna E, London,
As an enthusiastc smoker and drinker, I should not have any skin left at all, but even dermatologists are amazed at the condition of my complexion. I have used sunscreen every single day and have deployed a parasol in the summer for more than 30 years.
Also, thanks for clearing up what pop star Nick Lowe was up to these days.
Catherine Jones, Halifax, Canada
Wear a real sun hat!
Apply vaseline in winter and when sailing, in any harsh climatic conditions to prevent wind chap, and wear a cashmere scarf round the face.
After the intial capital outlay the cost is negligible - a wide brimmed foldable hat from Jermyn/St James's Streets is about £100 and will last decades: ditto a good scarf.
As a man my aim in the above was mere comfort, but following those simple and inexpensive practices has had the side effect of a good skin tone - women often comment on it.
Unforunately the women in my life do not seem to find a gift- wrapped jar of vaseline accpetable as a present!
Michael Corby, London, England
I too would like some advice on organic skin care as I don't want products containing parabens, aluminium etc, and it is not clear from the article which of these creams contain these.
Sarah, Colchester,
I thought this was a well-written article - I'm 30, am naturally very active and have seen far too much sun in my time, but since my early 20's have been using AHAs, retinol and - more recently - tretinoin to keep my skin in very good condition. A number of those substances listed above have seriously worked well to refine my skin texture and appearance. Thing is, they ony work as long as you're using them. Another inexpensive, relatively easy to get (in the US, anyway) substance that fades discoloration is hydroquinone. I was suffering from melasma (sometimes called "masking" or chloasma) due to sun exposure and, by combining HQ with tretinoin for four months, I completely transformed my skin. So not all beauty products offer false promises - articles like this can help women wade through the marketing hysteria to identify practical, realistic ways of improving the appearance of their skin. A good source of info is www.cosmeticscop.com
CC, London,
what also helps is to ask yourself what the problem is with just looking your age.
Older women with gray hair and some patina look so much better and interesting than all those yellow dyed mothers and grandmothers who desperately want to look like B. Spears.
robert, vancouver, bc
I use Oriflame for years; Its natural, non-agressive and very reasonably priced. I do look younger than my age.
Irene, London, UK
Asta, I am about to try Beauty Naturals, herbal based, organic products. www.beautynaturals.com. They sound very promising and reasonably priced.
Jean Marie Pike, Inchbrook, Stroud, UK
I know something that works every single time.
Genes. Which is why I look my age, and my partner looks 10 years younger, even though she's a year older.
starling, Lancaster,
"Picking one and seeing how you get on?" It would appear to involve more than one, if we are to benefit from all the categories. So we pick one cream out of each of the many above categories and try it. While I count only 2 creams to be used for the day, at night it goes to a whopping four creams to use, one for each category. This is ridiculous, you'd end up looking like Elizabeth the First, with makeup two inches thick.
I'll go with Boots No 7, it does what it is advertised to do, and does not cost 100's of pounds in the process. I find it really suits my skin.
M. LaJuett, Silver Spring, MD; USA
Dont get suck into belief that a cream can defy gravity and time. lt is just like all the other myths thus making money for the rich. lt is a combination of genes, looking after your diet, staying out of the sun's damaging uv rays and avoiding all the other nasties like dairy products, alcohol, unneccessary medication, drugs, cigarettes etc. A wholesome lifestyle is also a winning point to looking young and being healthy.
virginia, Brisbane, Australia
That´s all quite nice but unfortunately those miracle creams do not only contain anti-aging substances but also a lot of chemicals that are linked with potential health damage like chemical sun-screens, parabenes etc. I would like to learn about a product range that is 100% organic and offers all the anti-aging substances without using the dangerous ingredients. If something of the kind exists.
Asta, Hamburg, Germany
Well researched and informed article - thank you.
J Smith, Glasgow,
Most health shops have good products without parabens and other harmful ingredients etc. Dr. Hauska is excellent, and also, L'Occitane products.
Jennifer, Toronto, Canada
too confusing!! How about a bit of Nivea at night and sunscreen and moisteriser in the morning!!
Jill, Vancouver, Canada