We could learn a thing or two from our French sisters — and not just about staying svelte. Those chic mademoiselles across the channel have relied on their pharmacists for skincare advice for decades, not least if they have problem skin. And, while most Brits usually visit the chemist to make discreet inquiries about their piles or pick up a prescription, that looks set to change, thanks to the increasing number of quality skincare brands that are now available in pharmacies in this country.

The fact that the cosmetic colossus L’Oréal’s fastest-growing division within its UK portfolio, Cosmétique Active, focuses on chemist-based brands such as Vichy and La Roche-Posay suggests that this is not simply a fleeting trend. “UK consumers are showing a growing appetite for buying their skincare from a pharmacy in the way that their European neighbours have been doing for decades,” says Laurence Pardieu-Duthil, the managing director of L’Oréal Cosmétique Active in the UK and Ireland. “Many people appreciate the tailored, over-the-counter, diagnostic approach that pharmacies can offer and the reassurance of safe, clinically proven solutions recommended by their local dermatologist.” And they are often cheaper than the department-store offerings.

Another big draw of pharmacy skincare brands is that most of these ranges are hypoallergenic, making them suitable for sensitive skin. For example, Lierac, which went on sale here last month, previously had British beauty editors dashing straight off Eurostar into the nearest pharmacy. The brand was originally devised by a dermatologist to treat serious skin problems. Michael Tanguy, the managing director of La Roche-Posay, another French brand that hit British chemists last month, confirms the connection. “Pharmacy brands have doubled their pace in France over the past few years due to the explosion of skin sensitivity,” he says.

Whatever the cause of sensitive skin — be it the frenetic pace of modern living or pollution — the fact that conditions such as eczema, rosacea and adult acne are on the rise at the same time as the boom in pharmacy skincare may say something for its efficacy. Indeed, with fans including Madonna and Tom Cruise, La Roche-Posay has been such a success in America that sales have reached £13m a year. The company consults 25,000 dermatologists worldwide annually, as well as thousands of pharmacists.

It could be argued that Horizon, the television programme now famous in beauty circles for an episode demonstrating that No7 Protect & Perfect actually does work on wrinkles, did wonders for making us more receptive to chemist-sold skincare. Sales of the serum rocketed 2,000%, and it did more than any amount of advertising could have done in a decade for the Boots brand and encouraged consumer trust in the pharmacy skincare market.

“No7 Protect & Perfect revolutionised perceptions of how much we need to spend on quality skincare,” says Cara Whitehouse, the editor of Beauty Magazine, a trade publication. “At a pharmacy, consumers can get expert advice from a fully trained healthcare professional who has no bias towards a particular brand, whereas in a department store it can sometimes feel as if you are merely getting sales patter.”

The hard sell may be instrumental in driving people away from department stores and into the pharmacies, but the economic downturn is another factor. Despite the oft-mentioned beauty retailer homily that women buy more lipstick during a recession, there is a big difference between throwing a tenner at a lip gloss and sinking £160 on a pot of Crème de la Mer. For example, Simple, an affordable range that is free from fragrance and colour, has always been loved by those with sensitive skin. Now it is the fastest-growing facial skincare brand in the UK — a position it will no doubt maintain when it reintroduces its more protective Regeneration range this week.

If you are seeking more specialised help, Boots has launched Skin Health Centres in selected stores, where experts are on hand to give one-to-one consultations. UV-damage assessments, camouflage clinics and checkups by dermatological nurses are also available.

In France, brands such as Avène and La Roche-Posay are taken so seriously that dermatologists often prescribe them to patients, which speaks volumes for pharmacy skincare. The French government even subsidises residential hydrotherapy skin cures at the La Roche-Posay and Avène clinics in France — 8,000 patients are sent to La Roche-Posay for treatment each year.

In the UK, we may never reach such levels of devotion — not least due a lack of natural thermal resources — but for skincare that isn’t likely to cause irritation and dermatologist’s advice without a hefty consultation fee, tapping into the pharmacy could be our best bet yet.

Top products

La Roche-Posay Anthelios XL Fluid Extreme SPF50+, £14 for 50ml The first sunscreen to contain Mexoryl SX and XL, which absorb UVA rays. There is no Tipp-Ex-like whiteout, either — rare for such a high SPF.

Vichy Aqualia Thermal UV, £14 for 50ml Enriched with Vichy thermal spa water, this moisturiser hydrates thirsty skin and provides an effective sun barrier. It is oil-free and hypoallergenic, which makes it great for sensitive skin.

Avène Eau Thermale, £5.25 for 150ml Consisting of thermal water channelled straight from the Avène springs into the on-site factory, this facial spritz assuages skin complaints, from acne to eczema, as well as dryness.

Aveeno Cream, £7 for 100ml A formula with colloidal oatmeal for seriously dry skin. For the past 10 years, it has come top in trials on patients with dry skin conditions at North Tees & Hartlepool NHS trust.

RoC Hydra + Bio Active SPF15 — Normal Skin, £13 for 40ml A simple, effective moisturiser that contains ingredients known to benefit dry skin, including omega-3 and omega-6 oils. It has a lovely nongreasy finish.

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