Bobbi Brown (that’s the make-up artist with an “i”, not the singer with a “y”) operates an open-door policy — even during interviews. So, mid-conversation, someone from down the hall in product development swings by to show her the latest eye-shadow shades. Brown loves them. “Let’s do all 10,” she decides on the spot. Later, a manicurist, who sets up her station in the beauty brand’s New York offices most days of the week, pops her head in. “I must come and see you,” Brown says smiling. Even the odd-job man saunters past for a quick hello.

It’s this come-one, come-all attitude that has made Bobbi Brown such a success (she sold her company to the Estée Lauder group in 1995, but has retained control. No brand-specific financial figures are released). It also typifies her approach to make-up — in both application and formulation. Her world is about everyone in their everyday; it focuses on the basics. It’s not about bravado or zaniness, nor about her ego as an artist. It’s simply a down-to-earth idea about making the best of yourself.

That is also why her new book, Bobbi Brown Makeup Manual, serialised in Style today and over the next two weeks, is an essential beauty read. For this is all about seizing power. It’s about making everyone aware — ordinary women and make-up artists alike — of how to make the most of the face they’re looking at in the mirror.

Sure, there are wackier approaches to cosmetics, and there are those who see make-up as being more about guile. Brown just wants us to look our best — and as naturally as possible. This is simply about creating a more polished version of you, based on the premise that, actually, you’re just fine. “The most important thing is to find make-up that’s right for you. It just takes a little bit of time,” says Brown. All of that starts, as the following pages make clear, with skincare and, fundamentally, with moisturiser.

“A lot of women don’t understand the importance of skin,” says Brown. “Some think, ‘If you can just show me how to find the perfect lipstick or tell me the right eye-shadow colour . . .’ It’s, like, eyes? They’re the least of your worries. Your skin needs to look good, and that includes using the right moisturiser. And it’s not only about a regime from your department store, it’s about the mirror and how you could look different today compared to yesterday. Whether it’s hormones, partying or you didn’t sleep well, you might need something different. But, honestly, using the right moisturiser will make your skin look so much better. It’s incredible.”

The rest of her beauty philosophies are as simple. She doesn’t think primers are necessary: “I have honestly never found one that works. I find it just makes make-up look worse — heavier.” She is also against cosmetic surgery. “Now that I am over 50, I look at how people start doing weird things to their faces and I’m, like, ‘I guess nobody looks normal any more’.” And, she says, there is “no such thing as anti-ageing. We just age”. The best we can hope for? “Honestly, the two words I would use are ‘fresh’ and ‘great’. That’s it.”

THE GOLDEN TEN

Beauty is about looking and feeling great. That means, first, taking care of the body: drinking lots of water, eating healthy food, using sunscreen and getting plenty of exercise. Then start incorporating these 10 rules into your routine

1 Good beauty routines begin with good skincare Pamper the skin and experiment with rich, hydrating moisturisers.

2 Under-eye darkness often deepens with age Use a rich, under-eye cream overnight and a lighter cream for day to hydrate and smooth the area. Use a pink- or peach-toned corrector, followed by a yellow-toned concealer and foundation. Lighten the upper lid with a light eye shadow.

3 Using moisturisers can reduce the appearance of wrinkles Tinted balms and moisture-rich foundations help soften lines and wrinkles, and don’t settle into them. Match foundation exactly to the skin tone.

4 Skin loses elasticity over time Using a cream with retinoids that stimulates collagen production gives skin a firmer look.

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