Presumably you have to be to brave the freezing froth?
It isn’t harsh in summer, but yes, in winter the sea is very cold. You need to be keen. I surf every day, all year round. Foreign surfers can’t believe it, but you get used to it.

You must have a pretty serious wetsuit.
Wetsuits these days are fantastic. My winter suit is really thick and I also wear a hood, boots and gloves to make it more bearable.

When did you first take the plunge?
I grew up in Newquay, where everyone surfs. I started bodyboarding when I was 6 and then progressed to surfing with a short board when I was 10. At 12 I started entering contests. When you’re that young, you’re not scared of the waves; you just love being in the sea.

Are British surfers taken seriously on the world circuit?
Of course. We’re not just there to make up the numbers.

You’re competing in the international Rip Curl Boardmasters in Newquay later this month; will you hit the mark?
I’m hoping to win back the title of British No 1 — I won it four years ago — and I think I’ve got a good chance. As far as winning the Rip Curl goes, there are so many good international surfers, I just don’t know. I surf Fistral beach (where the competition is held) all the time, so there will be a home advantage.

Have you been running laps to get into peak physical form?
I surf every day and I also swim and cycle, which is great for building strength without putting stress on your joints.

Before a contest, how do you get “in the zone”?
It starts about a week before. I start by making sure that I’m eating right — lots of fruit during the day, and veg, carbs and protein for dinner — as well as doing stretches.

Are you part of the bendy brigade?
I’m very into yoga, as so many surfers are these days. It helps you to become calm and relaxed, and is invaluable for flexibility and balance. I went to ashtanga yoga classes for a year when I was 15, and now I practise myself.

Do you have a taste for anything else alternative?
I just stick to yoga, eat right, sleep well and try to feel happy. If I have an injury I go to a really good chiropractor in Truro.

Ever hurt yourself badly?
Four years ago, when I was competing in Western Australia, a 12ft (3.6m) wave landed on my ankle and squashed it against the surf board. It damaged my medial ligament, and I was washed ashore, screaming. I was out of the water for four months.

Green tea or your GP?
I flew home and started seeing a physio and my chiropractor. Then I started rehabilitation. Part of it involved using a wobble board — it’s a flat board that has an uneven base that you try to balance on — to get back my strength, and although I am better now I have carried on using it.

Any other times you have come close to a watery grave?
Surfing in Hawaii can be scary because the waves can be 5m high. There is a place called Sunset Beach that is like no other surfing destination on the planet. There are always lot of frightening moments there.

So are you a thrill-seeker or do you feel the fear?
Every surfer loves a challenge. You are pushing yourself to your limits and that’s the buzz.

Is surfing a spiritual high?
Definitely. For me, it has two sides. There is competitive surfing, which is cut-throat but I love it. Then there is also the surfing that I do purely to satisfy myself. If you score a really perfect wave, it is so good for your soul. You are literally buzzing for a couple of weeks.

On a shallower note, does all that saltwater wreak havoc on your skin?
I take good care of my skin because it is so exposed to the elements. I slather on the sunscreen and moisturiser.

How do you let your hair down after a day in the surf?
I’ll have a beer . . . or two.

Aren’t pro-surfers supposed to be ultra-disclipined athletes?
I won’t drink around contest time. But otherwise, a beer is the best way to celebrate a good surf session.

A taste for the smokes?
Cigarettes? No.

What about the wacky baccie?
That is just an old stereotype. None of the surfers I know smokes weed. You have to have a good lung capacity, so it’s not advisable.

How long can you ride the crest of the wave?
Surfers are getting better and better as they get older these days. The seven-times world champion Kelly Slater is in his mid-thirties. Basically, if you can maintain your body, you can surf as long as you like. I hope to be still doing this in my eighties.

Mark Harris is competing in the Rip Curl Boardmasters, July 31-August 6, Newquay, Cornwall

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