Harriet Addison
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You're a renowned chef and owner of the award-winning hotel and restaurant Le Manoir in Oxfordshire; you're also hosting the second series of the BBC Two show The Restaurant. Fingers in the pie from an early age?
My mother was a brilliant cook and I was always mesmerised by her. We had a great big garden full of fresh produce, so I learnt about the seasons early on.
Sounds idyllic...
I was blessed with an amazing childhood. Postwar, it was a very privileged time. It was through my father that I learnt about seasonal variety, hunting and gathering and, most importantly, adventure. We used to go with secret maps to find unusual types of mushrooms and so on.
Did you always want to be a chef?
I first trained as a nurse. I was in the leukaemia department where young people were coming to die basically. After nine months I couldn't handle it.
So you headed for the kitchen?
Finally, I realised my ambition. An August evening, an amazing meal at a beautiful restaurant: sea bass, crêpe suzette ... It was there and then that I decided to be a chef. I wanted to be the man!
Have you also had a family of your own?
Oh yes. Oliver, 31, and Sebastian, 27. I would say that my sons are my best friends.
Is there a Madame Blanc?
I am divorced. I am one of those guys who professionally has had an amazing career but privately it has been a bit more difficult.
Married to the kitchen?
Yes. Being passionate is often mistaken for being a workaholic. Why? I have spent a significant amount of my life in the kitchen. But, you know what, I don't regret it.
Really?
At points there was little time for me and my family. Unfortunately, you can't have everything. I have been able to educate my children at the best schools in Britain and from there they can make their own lives and successes.
Can hard work conquer all?
While you may have the ability to succeed, it is your hard work that really puts you ahead of others. Talent alone will never be enough to carry you to be the best in your field.
What's the secret to your success?
Like a beautiful woman, a restaurant needs a mix of everything: the food, atmosphere, culture and spirit must appeal.
Do you find much time to relax?
French style means sitting down at lunch, even if it is for just five minutes to unwind. I am like many French men, mainly carnivorous but I also eat lots and lots of vegetables. And lots of desserts, of course, and wine!
How do you keep the pounds at bay?
You work hard and at incredible speed. You need a tremendous amount of energy and often a tremendous amount of stress ...
Are you from the Ramsay school of management?
Under pressure and sometimes fear, people grow the best. But normally there is no shouting because there is no need.
Are you a fan of British fare?
When I first had the great British speciality, fish and chips - my God. It was great, but the waiter was so inefficient. He had all this stuff on his shirt and looked unconcerned. The food reeked of malt vinegar, and the cardboard - why? It was the first time I had seen square chips and a square fish!
How do you relax?
I cook!
Just the one passion, then?
I have lots of passions, tennis, sailing, reading, but I am afraid I haven't had time to cultivate them. But leopards can still change and I hope to change some of my spots. I can relax sometimes and have a good time; I am not always obsessing or dreaming about food.
Treat yourself to a tipple now and then?
Of course - I am French! Wine, whisky and champagne. With drinking comes singing. I have a terrible voice. As a little boy, I wasn't allowed to sing so now I am a big boy I sing when I like!
Do you smoke?
I stopped a long time ago.
Pills or plants?
I believe in alternatives, but I think that people should look so much more closely at the healing power of food.
Because you are what you eat?
Every molecule of food, from the humble carrot to spinach and watercress, has short and long-term effects. Along with relaxation and exercise, food must come first.
So simplicity is the key?
Exactly. If you have good ingredients then you don't need to cover it in an elaborate truffle sauce because it is delicious already.
Do you believe in a higher power?
I believe in God. I'm not quite sure which one, but I believe there is a being who sees so much more and who has universal intelligence and kindness.
Any life philosophies?
I try to treat others as I would like to be treated myself. I try to live honestly. I know that my private life has not always been rosy, but I have tried to live by being as honest as much as I can.
What makes you happy?
Lots of things. I am happy today. I have done a good day's work. I think I have answered your questions as honestly as I can and I haven't made any faux pas. My two sons make me happy. Sunsets make me happy. Creating a new dish can make happy.
Future ambitions?
One ambition is never to retire. When I am 94, I want to create a kitchen in some forgotten part of the world. I like to say, “If you want to make God laugh, tell him your plans.”
INTERVIEW: HARRIET ADDISON
The Restaurant, BBC Two, Wednesdays and Thursdays, 8pm
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