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Britons have long had a passion for Chiantishire. Now consumers are turning to
olive oil as a wonder food said to help to prevent heart disease and some
forms of cancer.
According to analysis by Mintel, sales of olive oil have risen by almost 40
per cent in five years, and for the first time the value of standard cooking
oils has been overtaken by olive oils. The market is now worth £104 million
a year and within five years is predicted to reach £230 million.
Virgin and extra virgin olive oil — the most expensive varieties — are bought
by 30 per cent of those buying edible oils, compared with 25 per cent five
years ago. The sight of the television chefs Jamie Oliver and Gordon Ramsay
drizzling these oils on their dishes has doubtless influenced the trend.
These days many restaurants offer bowls of olive oil on dining tables for
dipping bread as an alternative to butter.
BBC One’s peek into life at Windsor Castle disclosed that the Prince of Wales
had requested a bowl of olive oil instead of butter pats for a state
banquet.
The craze for healthy eating has spurred demand for other speciality oils such
as walnut, truffle and seed-based products, as well as oil sprays and mild
and light oils — a market that has grown by nearly 75 per cent in five
years.
According to Mintel, most olive oil consumers live in London and the South
East, though there are plenty in Wales and the West Country. The lowest
sales are in Scotland. The typical consumer is from social class AB and is
aged 45 to 54. The over-65s are least likely to drizzle oil on their food.
The health benefits of olive oil have been found by several scientific
studies. It is high in vitamin E, which helps to stave off heart disease by
slowing the thickening and hardening of arteries.
Compounds in virgin olive oil known as phenols have been linked to the
prevention of colon cancer while oleic acid in olive oil is said to cut the
risk of developing breast cancer. Olive oil consumption is also believed to
account for the low incidence of skin cancer in Mediterranean people.
British shoppers want the benefits of the oils but are reluctant to pay for
the expensive makes. Filippo Berio oil is the top brand but supermarkets
dominate the market in olive oil sales. Their own-label products undercut
top names often by as much as £1 and retailers have achieved 56 per cent of
the market share.
Data from TNS Superpanel in The Grocer suggests that Waitrose and
Sainsbury’s are selling the most olive oil and speciality oil, though Tesco
recorded the highest growth in sales — 12 per cent last year.
Claire Birks, of Mintel, said: “Although, by volume, standard oils still
command the majority of the market, the fact that Brits now spend more on
olive oil than on standard oils shows a willingness to pay a premium price
for sophisticated alternatives to everyday products.
“The use of olive oil in rustic and exotic dishes has also done a lot to
elevate its status. The popularity of olive oil has not only been helped by
its aspirational value, but also by its association with Mediterranean
cooking and the health claims linked with this way of life.”
Ms Birks said that olive oil companies needed to do more to market their
products. “Brits are motivated by price and they want the health benefits —
but on the cheap, and they are buying own-label brands. I do myself. This
presents a challenge to olive oil companies to differentiate their
products.”
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