Carolyn Asome, Deputy Fashion Editor
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Such is the ethnic diversity of designers at London Fashion Week that it is increasingly resembling a roll call for the United Nations.
Take yesterday’s mix, which began with two collections by Danish designers, followed by Duro Olowu, who hails from Nigeria, Manish Arora, beloved of Bollywood, and the Australian Alice McCall. What draws them to our capital?
“London always attracts original and colourful design that doesn’t just take the lead from the same handful of big hitters in Paris and Milan,” explained Andrew Tucker, an international talent scout for the British Fashion Council.
Olowu, who first came to our attention a couple of years ago with his loose, empire-cut dresses and kimono-style sleeves, proved that he wasn’t to be regarded as a one-trick pony. A purple coat with black velvet trim was particularly accomplished, as were the drawstring smocks in a Seventies-feel jersey with an inspiring clash of browns, blues and pinks.
Earlier it was the invasion of the Danes. First up was Noir, the sexy “demi-couture” label that is synonymous with luxury fabrics. Sold in Harvey Nichols, this is the new eco-fashion, so you can forget the frumpy, hemp get-ups. Their mantra — that their garments look like “normal, stylish clothes, and that you’d never guess their organic provenance” — rings true.
Flying the flag for Denmark again was Peter Jensen, who, six months ago, presented a collection with such a lightness of touch that it stood out as one of the highlights. So it was disappointing to see this collection so obviously influenced by the 16th-century figure Christine of Denmark.
His kooky, landscape prints on knife-pleat skirts were more promising, although it was often hard to see beyond the monastic sacks.
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