Colin McDowell
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THREE fashion giants in one afternoon. No wonder we all love Paris. First up, John Galliano at Dior, following his triumph with Dior couture in January. Christian Dior opened his fashion house 60 years ago and Galliano paid suitable homage with a collection in two parts. The first half was based on Paris fashion in the forties, during World War Two. The second, on Paris fashion at the end of the war and after Dior's debut in 1947. The contrast was dramatic. Big coats in leather, python and suede with huge fur collars, sleeves and hems, all dyed to match the garment, had the sense of scale which Galliano controls with a lightness which eschews the heaviness that they must have. The mood was Joan Crawford but draped and swagged dresses with floating panels gave way to the lighter tones of Veronica Lake with romantic dresses, lightly floating or richly embroidered. It was the audacity of the colours which made this not only a great tribute to the founder of Dior but proved that Galliano is now his master on every count. Dior grey and lilac, chartreuse, pink, purple and fuchsia were all the more effective because each outfit used one colour only. The result was a stunning bouquet which entirely confirmed Galliano's world supremacy.
At Comme des Garcons, the colour continued with fresh sugared almond and boiled sweet shades in a gently quirky and delightfully humorous show. At this house, there is always a story to unfold and this time it was about details and trompe l'oeil. First up was a series of dresses in violet and candyfloss pink which seemed to be ruffled and ruched but in fact had fronts consisting of little girls' dresses incorporated into them, following the theme of one garment being two garments, which has been examined many times by this label. Then came black applique bows and formalised flower shapes, again on simple dresses. They then became padded and were joined by buttons and pockets like rubber balls. The sequence ended with very real looking disembodied padded gloved hands on hips and at breasts which many in the audience found disquietening. But it was all kept light and jokey, with Mickey Mouse and rabbit ear hats reminding us that even the business of being serious - and Comme des Garcons is a very serious fashion house indeed - can always be lightened up a little.
For a long time the joker in the Paris pack has been Jean Paul Gaultier and he still has the ability to give us a short, sharp kick in the shins whilst we're laughing, but this season he downplayed that side. Instead, the show was all about the quality of workmanship for which his label is also deservedly famous. The theme was Scotland, which made it seem rather odd that the show began and ended with model Coco Rocha performing a fabulously spirited dance down the runway that was more Riverdance than Scottish reel.
Not that it mattered. There was no doubt that we were in the Highlands as tartan, mohair travelling rug skirts, leather-bound ghillies' jackets, argyle jumpers and grouse-feathered hats strode confidently down the runway to the sound of the pipes. All this has long been traditional Westwood country, of course, but JPG's imagination created a different mood that was entirely his own. The top tailoring was balanced with the delicate workmanship of crochet for evening and the drama of full length mohair coats (most stunning in jade green) to make a statement which was entirely Parisian. Oh, and in case you're wondering, JPG did his usual dash down the runway at the end but, probably wisely, made the decision against giving us a Riverdance high kick.
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