Nick Angel
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In The Thick of It, BBC4’s political satire, the hapless opposition minister Peter Mannion is being dressed by his spin-doctor. “No tie, you say?” asks the minister, forlornly. “No tie,” affirms the spin-doctor, grim faced. The message is clear: ties are not cool and are an electoral liability.
In real life David Cameron has become the poster boy for the open-neck shirt look. Last month he even turned up without at tie at the Conservatives’ winter ball — once the bastion of Tory traditionalism. But it’s not just MPs who use their neckwear (or lack of it) to craft an image. Richard Branson has built a whole brand on not being buttoned up, and it would be as strange to see him with a tie as it would without a beard.
So far the abandonment of the tie has taken place without fanfare. All that is about to change with the launch of a fully fledged antitie movement — a war on collars, you might say. Today in London, and tomorrow in New York, the Mandarin Collar Society is announcing its formation. Its aim is nothing less than the worldwide elimination of the necktie and its replacement with the open collar.
The society — whose signed-up members include Linford Christie and the chef Pierre Gagnaire — has even issued a manifesto, which makes for rousing reading. Neckties, it declares, are “historical relics”. Not only do they “impose conformity, invite enslavement, and remind the wearer that his superiors have him by the neck”; they are also a health risk — those who wear their ties too tight are apparently more likely to develop glaucoma. Worst of all, says the group, neckties are pointless, and serve “no obvious function other than as a soup bib”.
Are ties out of date?
“Loosen the noose! End the oppression!” concludes the manifesto. If women’s emancipation came to be defined by the demise of the corset, it is clear that — for the Mandarin Collar Society at least — the necktie has the same symbolic significance as a historical instrument of male oppression.
The Mandarin Collar Society (for information, email mcs@shanghaitang.com) is the brainchild of the flamboyantly named Raphael le Masne de Chermont, CEO of Shanghai Tang, the Hong Kong-based clothing company. “We want to launch a no-tie attitude,” he tells me just before boarding a plane in Marseilles, where he has been spreading his message. The campaign is not entirely selfless: Le Masne is hoping that, as people abandon the tie, they will purchase a mandarin collar shirt from his collection instead. (For those not in the know, a mandarin collar is a less severe version of the Chairman Mao look — and ties can form no part of the repertoire.)
Tie-less for the past five years, Le Masne insists that there are not just ideological reasons for shunning the necktie, but practical ones, too. Eating dim sum becomes a less hazardous enterprise, and “if I put on weight I don’t strangle myself with my collar”. However, the tie lobby is not taking this lying down. “That’s quite horrendous,” gasped Fiona Rushton of Hermãs — considered by the cognoscenti to be the apex of modern tie making — when I revealed the existence of the Mandarin Collar Society. “I can’t believe they’ve issued an antitie manifesto.” Far from being outmoded, she insisted, these days the tie is as much a fashion accessory as a requirement for work, and that sales are on the up — even in China, where Hermãs has six stores. As a sign of how the tie war has escalated, Hermãs has launched a counterblast: “for the right of the tie to arrange its own affairs”.
But what is the tie for? “Neckwear has long been a way of finishing an outfit, displaying wealth, and drawing attention to the face and framing the head,” says Sonnet Stanfill, the Curator of Contemporary Fashion at the Victoria and Albert Museum, who refuses to take sides in the tie spat. “It allows colour into an outfit, and allows an expression of one’s personality. The contemporary interpretation of ties continues that tradition.”
Although early incarnations of the tie can be traced back as far as the 16th century, its modern form did not emerge until Victorian times and was at first confined to sporting clubs. The earliest tie in the V&A’s collection dates from the 1870s, and belonged to the I Zingari Cricket Club: in addition to flying the club colours from a flag, members draped them round their necks too.
Ties remain a stable of clubs and societies, and it’s partly these connotations that lend the tie its fusty image — while the “old school tie” is synonymous with a deeply unfashionable elitism. Then there are novelty ties, which often seem to be a substitute for, rather than an expression of, personality.
Whichever side of the debate you’re on, it’s all proof that everyday sartorial decisions are more loaded with meaning than we realise. In any case, the whole dispute may soon be redundant. Le Masne tells me that in Hong Kong recently the Chief Executive ordered that the air conditioning be turned down in parliament, to save both energy costs and the environment. In a quid pro quo for the warmer temperatures, MPs were allowed to stop wearing ties.
Like polar bears and the county of Norfolk, the humble tie might soon be one more casualty of climate change.
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To the ladies who oppose the elimination of ties, why don';t you wear one everyday as and see how you like it? Once again show that when it comes to free will, rights and expression, women continue to take the victimization route and delude themselves men are so "free".
Kendrik, New York, NY, USA
I say bring back the bowler hat and bow tie. If that does not say 'professional', I don;t know what does.
Ayaz, Dhaka, Bangladesh
Thank goodness for common sence.
If ties had not been invented ,then today in 2007 someone designed and suggest them as work wear they would laughed all the way out of the office.
Well done !
Paul Turek, wakefield , west yorkshire
Mandarin jackets, derived from the Manchu ethnic group in China,
look too much like bellboy or waiter outfits.
ada j, San Francisco, CA
That most revolting, slapdash and ill-disciplined organisation - the casual dress office!!!! A casual dress policy makes the statement: "We couldn't be bothered to dress properly this morning, we can't be bothered to work. We cannot look professional and we are not very professional."
Jim Evans, Minehead, Somerset
I currently feel no pressure to wear or not wear a tie and deplore the idea of a pressure group attempting to change that. When I choose to wear a suit and tie I certainly feel better dressed but it is not practical for most of my everyday activities.
I am sure that at certain times I would have felt underdressed had I not been wearing a tie but fortunately would seem to have been blessed with the sense to dress appropriately for most occasions by choice.
I would suggest that the readers who experience sensations of strangulation when wearing a collar and tie purchase items that fit properly and are made from good quality material or alternatively seek psychiatric help for their problem. I just hope they never find that all the trousers in there wardrobe feel on the tight side!
Bruce Hall, Manchester,
As ties were in the past an expression of elitism,point making, one upmanship etc.So no ties is just another mode of the same ilk.Ever the contrary being I will be searching in the drawers for a really spectacular example to wear.Like smoking maybe they will be banned?
Jim Slip, Craibavon, Armagh
It is absolutely clear that the tieless life is the better life.I can state this because of happy happy experience of wearing unencumbered shirts for many decades.
It is a matter of time before medical science will prove that neckties can be harmful to the health of those who wear them.
Uri Hurwitz, Great Neck, NY USA
I agree that whether one wears a tie or not should be up to the individual. Personally, I much prefer a be-shirted gentleman to be sporting a tie. The half-dressed look doesn't really appeal to me. I suppose it all depends on how one prefers to look: suave and sophisticated, or like a Bond viliain. Though if one resides on a private island, complete with laser dismembering suite and a volcano full of minions, I don't suppose what Linford Christie thinks of the restricting nature of the necktie will cut much ice anyway.
Tabitha, London,
With all that's going on in the World its a shame that these people think the best use of their time and position in the media spotlight is to start up a society against tie wearers. I personally prefer not to wear a tie, cravats are much more stylish.
Actuarius, Bognor Regis,
Wearing a tie should be an individual choice. Nobody has the right to eliminate choice - we already have enough of that in other areas of our life.
Some men may want to wear them all of the time with a suit or jacket, others not and many men will choose according to the occasion.
Sometimes the way they are worn is themselves a disgrace (when at half mast etc), but at least they are personalised and can be used to "finish off" a male outfit, which may otherwise be drab and boring. Alternatively, as with schools and clubs, they can seek to engender a sense of belonging and identification with one another and the institution they represent.
When considering their cost (now much lower than even a few years ago) they actually represent great value for money as a way of making a personal statement in the same way that a woman's accessories help her to finish off her own appearance.
Nick Dale, Maidstone, Kent
If Mr le Masne makes a contribution to classic style, it will hopefully be to contribute to the end of the open shirt collr, with points flapping in the breeze. A sea of mandarin collars would quickly make us pine for neckties.
Will, San Francisco, USA
I wish Raphael le Masne de Chermont well with his risible and shameless marketing ploy; hopefully it will sell a few more of his shirts and then die its well-deserved death quietly and in merited obscurity. In the meantime I am confident that the tie, rejoicing in its position as the only item an man wears which is wholly without function other than to ornament. will go on and on.
Anthony Jordan, Cardiff, UK
May I be allowed to succumb to the ephemeral whims of the fashion police. Clothes make the man and I^m keeping my tie on
Frank Greaney, Formby Liverpool, United Kingdom
Wearing ties has nothing to do with showing respect or maintaining standards. It should be entirely optional. I had to wear a tie when in formal employment but now I work for myself and rejoice in the freedom of choice. I have some nice ties, LV and Versace, and don't object to ties per se, only the idea that the whole of civilisation will collapse if I go into the golf club without one .
Phil Constable, Darlington,
My husband has 93 ties hanging on the back of the bedroom door. I love him with a tie or without. They are a fashion statement and at work a uniform. The safety issue is irrelevant since clip on's are for wearing to work . If a woman wants to power dress, a tie does the trick.
The newest tie was bought in Cyprus for £25. a Perre Carden ... with one of those large size knots.
It is a subjective discussion anyway.
Linda Elliott-George, Wymondham,
I'm retired now and do not have to wear a tie as part of my uniform but I do wear a tie on those occasions when a gesture of respect for others is appropriate. David Cameron and his ilk see no need to wear ties because they do not respect the kind of people who wear them.
Cliff Pooley, Cheltenham,
If I had to sit naked on an ice cube at the North Pole wearing a tie, I'd be overheated.
I wear a suit to work but no tie. When I put one on recently for a funeral, I felt as if I was being choked and by the end of the day had razor burn.
There will be a tipping point when all but the most conservative of colleagues will finally dispense with the things.
I hate them. Ties RIP. Let them be laid to rest with those other bits of former standard male apparel; spats, cufflinks and sock garters.
ian, bath,
what about those big folded back cuffs with the gaudy links - power dressing sucks
Mr Useless, London,
Ties should perhaps be optional. Simple really...if you want to wear a tie, then wear one. If not, then don't.
Andrew E, Peterhead, Scotland
Ties should become an optional feature of dress.
I am actually surprised that in the current age of compensation handouts, "health and safety" have not already outlawed them! I can hear the adverts already- "have you become hot or flustered whilst wearing a tie at work?"!
But seriously the dry cleaning charges involved with the formal dress that men are supposed to adhere to are nothing other than discriminatory!
barry DuPont, brighton,
Sometimes the wearing of a tie confers gravitas. During the Channel 4 Board Meeting on the Big Brother problems their chairman came out to read a statement. He did not wear a tie and looked like a messenger boy.
Chris, Sutton Coldfield, England
Since I retired six years ago I have not once worn a tie, and it felt wonderful. However, I have from time to time worn a cravat, simply for comfort in colder weather. Those who go tieless tend to forget that an open necked shirt in winter is distinctly uncomfortable.
Ironically enough, ties originated from neck rags worn by Croatian mercenaries, thus cravats. Perhaps we should go back to those rather than the strangling ties.
Ian, Myersville, MD USA