Tina Gaudoin
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Given that pre-collection (or cruise, as the American’s call it) has become one of the most eagerly anticipated fashion events of the year, it is natural that Karl Lagerfeld’s collection for Chanel should be at the top of the “most desirable” list. For Lagerfeld, “pre-collection” is not some small affair to be created in the rush to plug the gap between his autumn/winter or spring/summer collections. Rather, it is an excuse to blend the worlds of couture and ready-to-wear – the exclusivity and the detailing of his atelier with the energy and chic of his main line collections.
This year, Lagerfeld chose the theme of Monte Carlo to celebrate his métiers d’art – the craftsmen and women from feather dressers to goldsmiths who make up Chanel’s specialist company called Paraffection, all dedicated to excellence in craft. As if to prove their worth, the craftsmen spent between them 10,000 hours to create 11,000 buttons and 400 items of jewellery, 1,770 hours to create the embroidery and 4,000 hours to create the footwear. Lagerfeld describes the collection as “robust and delicate” using tulle, jersey and duchesse satin to create a romantic, urban theme.
Shot on location at Mlle Chanel’s apartment and starring model du jour and Lagerfeld favourite, Irena, the collection showcases Chanel’s opulent jewellery, which includes the flower necklace, a snip at €20,000.
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