So Lily Allen is collaborating with New Look; Madonna is at H&M (and likely to be for some time, to judge from her not-exactly-flying-off-the-rails collection there); Sienna and her sister have designed a collection for someone or other named after the birthday of one or the other of them; Primark has just opened 70,000 sq ft of primest real estate on Oxford Street where you can buy a year’s worth of clothes for about £4.50; neon colours are the biggest thing to hit modern civilisation since nonneon colours . . . and the arrival of Abercrombie and Fitch and its queues of preppie teens, mega-decibel soundtrack and half-naked sales staff/resting models has transformed a corner of Savile Row into a set for The Stud.

In the two weeks that I’ve been on holiday, the high street has been a ferment of excitement — all v v fab and buzzy if you still relish the argument that London is a more fantastic city than all the other fantastic cities in the world. If, however, you are of a nervous disposition and/or over the age of 14 and/or looking for a nice pair of trousers/slick urban tailoring or colours that don't glow in the dark, you may be considering migrating to France or Spain, where, rumour has it, they still harbour a quaint sense of obligation towards dressing adults.

Of course, there are fashion companies committed to wooing British customers with the quieter virtues of cut, quality, fit and service. It’s just that some of them are doing it so quietly (Jaeger) that you may still be under the illusion that they are merrily churning out the same cabin crew-style apparel that made them such a hit in county rotary clubs two decades ago.

Others (John Lewis) have invested a king’s ransom in updating their flagships (the Oxford Street branch alone has had £61 million of refurbishment), yet the media still perceives it as the place for 100 per cent Hungarian white goosedown and Nigella cookware rather than a white Sea-folly bikini and MaxMara weekend wear.

Then there is Gap, languishing in the shadow of its American mother ship, the profits and profile of which are lacklustre. Yet all three of the stores mentioned above, and others, are well worth visiting for reasons that will become apparent. There will always be those who gain reassurance from wearing the label or shopping in the boutique of the moment, but venturing into less hyped territories can be more ultimately rewarding.

And let’s face it, far less noisy.

JAEGER

The fashion entrepreneur Harold Tilman acquired the ailing label in 2003 and lured Belinda Earle from Debenhams to act as group chief executive the next year. Since then he has expanded what Jaeger has to offer, from one range suffering an identity crisis to three distinct lines.

Without turning its back completely on the fiftysomething market, Jaeger has cleverly reeled in the younger, extremely fashion-conscious woman with Jaeger London — •a collection of well-priced, on- trend, impeccably made pieces such as its Chloé-inspired cotton lace trapeze dresses and pared-down, tailored trousers and jackets.

Jaeger Black Collection is pricier and more luxurious (trousers from £199), while the original Jaeger line has been redefined: polyester suits have been replaced by sleek dresses and cashmere separates.
Best buys: the oversize white tote with black top-stitching, silver flat sandals and cotton smock dress.

JOHN LEWIS

The store still stocks several labels that cater to the mumsy brigade but also has Joseph, MaxMara weekend, Whistles and Farhi by Nicole Farhi, all of which offer good value, chic basics; plus Mulberry handbags (10 per cent of all UK bag sales are conducted in John Lewis). Other bonus points are terrific personal-shopping advisers, bra-fitters of excellence, a swanky new cosmetics hall, some of the best vintage jewellery counters in the country, plus the sense that you’re actually being rebellious by shopping somewhere so very “Establishment”. And, having made your purchases, where else can you pick up the latest steam iron and moth repellants to look after them?
Best Buys: Joseph trousers and jackets; Calvin Klein swimwear; vintage jewellery.

GAP

Act global, think local is working at Gap, at least as far as the UK is concerned. There are now 40 designers working for the mega-brand in London, turning out highly desirable boy-fit jeans, clever plays on the classic white shirt or duffle coat, and cute, voluminous dresses. Half of all this summer’s collections are exclusive to the UK. By autumn it will be 100 per cent.

“Customers in Europe like to mix casual and smarter pieces,” says Stephen Sunnucks, of Gap Europe. “Dressing for different occasions is less rigidly defined here than it is in America — customers have a greater appetite for trends, even within the parameters of casualwear: for example, skinny or boy-fit jeans, playing with volume, and altering the silhouette of classic pieces such as the white shirt or duffle coat.”

Forget reports about it being bland in the US. Here Gap is definitely beautiful.
Best buys: ultra-thin T-shirts — ideal for layering; slouchy pants; elasticated ballerinas (very Lanvin).

Other grown-up destinations

Comptoir des Contonniers: Imported French label specialising in jersey basics with je ne sais quoi and understated tailoring for mothers and their daughters.
COS: My new high street favourite, courtesy of H&M, opened its first flagship on Regent Street: think of Marni styling with minimalist-inspired basics at high street prices. Madonna may have the expensive ad campaign but it’s COS that’s drawing the crowds.
Principles: Well-thought-out trends for the fashion-savvy.
J&M Davidson: Not exactly high street prices (its knit coats are £350 to £400) but impeccable French cut and quality fabrics make these long-term players of the wardrobe, with indefinable chic.
Joseph: Excellent trousers and slouchy jersey pieces.
French Connection: Ignore the silly ad campaigns — French Connection has finally grown up and lowered its prices: great for all the season’s key trends but cut to fit women, not children.

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