Bravissimo caters for women who are usually called curvy, though this lingerie chain, which sells online, by mail order and through its 13 shops, prefers a more precise description: “big boobed”. Calling a breast a boob is very much the upfront style of Bravissimo (pronounced with a short gap between the “bra” and “vissimo”). It also likes to stress that while its bras may come in sizes 28DD to 40K, they are definitively not “boulder holders”.

The chain is benefiting from women’s new readiness to reassess the size of bra they have always bought. This may be the result of TV makeover series that show the candidate for a new look being coerced into improved corsetry; such advice is a crucial part of the Trinny and Susannah shtick. There is a sudden enthusiasm among those who have not had surgical enhancement for declaring themselves a newborn 30C, or some other combination of the boyish and the voluptuous.

Curiosity about the process behind reclassification took me to the branch in Margaret Street, near Oxford Street, a store with an upstairs chill-out space that also serves as a company history museum. Sarah Tremel-len, the boss and co-owner, launched the business in 1995 to offer more flattering lacy and embroidered alternatives to the unadorned boulder holder. The museum’s customer comments section contained grateful messages for Bravissimo’s ability to harness technology. The results include balconettes made of lace, not industrial-strength fabric.

The comment section also indicated that the service was also much appreciated, though its directness can be disconcerting. The assistant was able to estimate that I might not be wearing the right size even before I took off my coat. I looked round to see if Suzy, my companion, was also being reassigned, but she had fled to cast an eye over the clothing. She tried on, then bought, two of the strongest pieces: a single-button cotton jacket (£59, in red and beige) and a black and white graphic print top (£36). The rest struck us as rather too conservative or overdecorated, as in the case of a long wrap top (£35).Another customer would have been a ready buyer of any item, but could find nothing big enough: it seems that while Bravissimo appeals to those with a generous décolletage, would-be buyers cannot have an ample girth. Only the brightly coloured swimwear (£25-£60) comes in size 18.

The time had come for me to submit myself to the bra-measuring service. The process does not involve tape measures, but scrutiny and trial and error. The fitter bought a series of bras into the changing room until she was happy with the fit. The relatively inexpensive prices (£16-£32) reconciled me to my reclassification, though Bravissimo should offer more wares in nude shades.

THE LINKS IN THE CHAIN

Bravissimo’s pretax profits in the year to September 2005 were £1.1 million on sales of £24.8 million. It is set to open more shops.

DETAIL IS RETAIL

Layout: the pastel decor is not oppressively girly 7/10

Staff: well-trained 9/10

Changing rooms: discretion assured 9/10

Bags: more pastel, but not too froufrou 7/10

Overall score: girls who just want to give you bras that fit 8/10

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