Anne Ashworth
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Oli is the posh new member of the Grattan and Freeman family of mail-order businesses owned by Otto, the German catalogue and internet shopping colossus. The customer Oli has in its sights is the middle-class woman who browses at Boden, casts longing glances towards net-a-porter.com, the web outlet for Roland Mouret, Chloé and other such names, and also spends time at asos.com, home of celebrity looks.
The inclusiveness that characterises her online and high street shopping habits has somehow never extended to Grattan, which she considers dowdy, so care has been taken to make both the Oli website (oli.co.uk) and catalogue (or “style guide”) shell suit-free zones. There are collections from Jasmine Guinness and Jodie Kidd, the photography is more Harper’s than Now and there is an apparent ban on elasticated-waist slacks.
The latest economic numbers indicate that rain in June kept us away from the high street, but don’t show whether we took refuge in the cyberspace chains. Longer-term trend statistics, however, indicate that online spending continues to surge after last year’s 33 per cent rise – which suggests great potential for Oli.
If success were based solely on self-belief, Oli would thrive with its pledge to provide “jaw-dropping, head-turning, heart-pounding fashion”. The emotions that I felt during an hour spent at my desk scanning the catalogue and searching the website were less tumultuous; at no point did my colleagues fear that I was close to a cardiac episode. I viewed a parade of glamorous pieces for the autumn, such as the £120 Jodie Kidd oversized leather tote bag (black, brown and white), all contemporary without being disconcertingly cutting-edge.
The dresses were a strength – if reality matches the promise of the pictures. I counted ten lovely styles under £100, including an elegant draped black jersey dress (£65) from Maria Grachvogel. Jasmine Guinness won the next two places in my Top Ten with a cherry-motif print tea dress (£50) and a blue chiffon prom dress (£95). The “catwalk looks” section also figured, with a poppy-border minidress (£25), a colour-block maxi dress (£35) and a slouchy mini-shift (£20).
From the other ranges I selected another five dresses: a silk geometric print shift from Metropolis (£69); a draped navy number with a bow sash from Joia (£65); a long-sleeved black Empire-line knit dress from Boutique (£55); a plain black shift dress with pleating at the waist from Savana (£30); and a ruched amethyst georgette evening dress (£89) with matching jewelled sandals (£75), also from Savana.
There was a dress for everyone – but me. I cannot contemplate assembling a cold-weather wardrobe until the sun shines. But I did order a Mikey Perspex bangle (£12), and the parcel was just one day (fashionably?) late.
The links in the chain In 2006-07 Otto Group’s earnings before tax were €507 million on sales of €15.2 billion. Previous reviews: timesonline.co.uk/chainreaction
Retail is detail
Catalogue: chic magazine with clear visuals 8/10
Website: visuals slightly slicker; clever features 7/10
Packaging: a bit downbeat 6/10
Overall score: journey in style at your desk 8/10
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