BIKER AND LEATHER

The obsession with all things pretty and girly is on the wane. In its place is a tough new biker-inspired aesthetic.

How to wear it

- It’s all about chunky zips as opposed to studs, which are too punky – the overall impression should be tough but deluxe.
- Make sure leather trousers are spray-on tight. Any hint of a boot cut, and you’ll look like a housewife at an Il Divo concert.
- Cheap leather is okay – as long as it doesn’t look cheap. Reject anything with tacky-looking zips or hardware.

COLOUR

Daywear gets a jolt as pieces that would traditionally come in wintry darks, such as coats and skirt suits, now come in bright shades. The trend also has an impact on evening wear – time to ditch the LBD.

How to wear it

- Choose strong, simple shapes with clean lines. Fussy silhouettes detract from the effect.
- Go for a head-to-toe look. At Dior and Valentino, accessories and even tights matched the colours of the clothes.
- For a fast track to fashionability, buy something blue. It’s the most user-friendly of the new season’s colours, because you can wear it with lots of black.

TAILORING

After years out in the cold, tailoring is beginning to seem relevant again. The look has a feminine, body-conscious edge, with curvy skirt suits and fitted shift dresses among the key pieces. That said, trouser girls have not been ignored. Hard-core fashion addicts will go for Balenciaga’s new take on jodhpurs (or the fabulous Gap lookalikes); otherwise it’s a choice between long and skinny, and wide and high-waisted.

How to wear it

- Avoid wearing anything bulky under your jacket. Go for fine-gauge, lightweight knits in wool or cotton. Tuck them in to create a lean, sleek profile.
- Clutch bags or small shoulder bags will complement a neat silhouette better than something big and bulky.
- Clumpy shoes work best with trousers rather than skirts or shift dresses.

Styling tip

Whether you are wearing a jacket or a shift dress, create an hourglass silhouette with a wide statement belt, as seen at Louis Vuitton.

COATS

There are two key trends this season. Gucci epitomised the lean look with tightly belted, masculine-cut coats that look great over skinny trousers or shift dresses. The alternative is to go for an oversized, enveloping coat, as seen at Marc Jacobs; Burberry, where billowing parkas were worn belted; Luella, which showed roomy greatcoats; and YSL, where the cocoon shape ruled.

DRESSES

Evening options are divided into two looks: flirty cocktail dresses that show off plenty of leg and shoulder, and stunning, floor-length gowns that ooze classic, movie-star glamour.

How to wear them

- Ruffles, bows and frills look more manageable and youthful on a short cocktail dress.
- Big, stiff, voluminous frocks are so last season. The best long gowns are lithe and sinuous. Go for something in a fluid fabric that moves – it’s more modern. Slinky, metallic fabric will emphasise this sexy fluidity.
- Statement accessories can make even the most simple gown look dressy. A big, bold cuff and a dazzling clutch bag add instant glamour.

Best buy

Even the high street can do floor-length fabulous - take a look at Topshop's gown for £25.

TEXTURE

If it’s matt, flat and plain, then forget it. Designers have been experimenting with texture to create some of the most directional pieces of the season. Fluffy coats that look like they are made from teddy-bear fabric (Stella McCartney), unusual coated fur that appears synthetic but isn’t (Louis Vuitton) and shaggy knitwear with fronds of marabou (Nina Ricci) are just some of their inventions.

How to wear it

- Work the look in a big statement piece, such as a coat. A more practical option is to go for shaggy, textured accessories, as seen at Prada and Fendi, or a fluffy Mongolian gilet.

Key piece

Prada’s collection was full of fantastical textures, including spongy, plasticised knitted separatesin toxic colours.

THE NEW LENGTH: MIDI

The midi look is one of the most directional catwalk trends. If you are looking for one piece that says autumn/winter 2007, then swap your mini for something that stops mid-calf. We like to call it the librarian length. It doesn’t scream hot sex, but serious fashion girls like nothing better than a new proportion to play with.

How to wear it

- Avoid voluminous shapes. Instead, go for fluid fabrics that follow the line of the body.
- Take the frump out by wearing a fitted midi. Go for a pencil dress or skirt in a stretchy fabric for extra slink factor.
- To create an elongated look, emphasise your waist with either a belt or a short jacket that shows it off. If you are not blessed with height, this is the way forward.
- Consider your footwear. Knee-length boots create a flattering, unbroken line between leg and skirt. High-heeled chunky platforms nod to the 1930s and 1970s influences of the look. Never wear it with ballet pumps.

Key piece

Chloé provides a midi masterclass. The fluid fabric of the skirt skims the body, which makes it more flattering than a stiff, tailored version. You can easily look stumpy in a midi, but with Chloé the waist is well defined, and the short jacket adds emphasis. With open-front shoes you can create an elongated silhouette.

CHUNKY KNITS

Go large with your knits. It’s all about creating drama with supersized shapes, thick cabling and fluffy, tactile textures.

How to wear it

- Layer up. Wear chunky cardies over long jumpers and mummify yourself in huge, ultra-long scarves.
- If you are playing with big volumes on the top half of your silhouette, keep the bottom half lean.
- Balance big, voluminous shapes with chunky, cosy footwear.
- The best big knits, like those by Stella McCartney and DKNY, are well proportioned. They fit across the shoulders, so you don’t look like you are drowning in them.

Best buy

Oversized chunky jumper, from £200, by DKNY.

CHECKS

We are mad for plaid. Lumberjack checks provide a great antidote to this season’s more luxury trends. They are also a great transitional look. Pop a checked jacket over a summery cotton dress and you get instant next-season cachet. It’s casual and cool – if you are looking for an everyday look with high-fashion attitude, this is the trend to go for. Phillip Lim’s checked jacket is the ultimate go-with-anything piece, so much so that it already has a waiting list. You will also find the look at Chanel, MaxMara and Marc by Marc Jacobs.

Best buy

Coat, £475, by 3.1 Phillip Lim; Net-a-porter.com

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