Claire Newell in Port Louis, Mauritius and Robert Winnett
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ONE of Britain’s richest men is profiting from Asian workers paid less than £4 a day to make clothes for his latest Kate Moss range for Topshop.
Factories supplying Sir Philip Green, who is based in Monaco and is worth nearly £5 billion, employ hundreds of Sri Lankan, Indian and Bangladeshi workers in Mauritius where they labour for up to 12 hours a day, six days a week.
Workers told The Sunday Times that they were recruited in their home countries by self-employed agents who promised wages up to five times what they receive. They pay up to £725 to get the job, equivalent to seven months’ earnings.
Once in Mauritius they receive as little as 22p to 40p an hour, about 40% below the local average wage. In at least one firm salaries are set according to race, with those from Bangladesh paid substantially less than Sri Lankans.
Green, rated seventh in The Sunday Times Rich List, largely avoids personal tax by paying dividends to his wife, Lady Tina, who lives offshore. In 2005 she was paid £1.2 billion, which amounted to £3.3m for every day of the year.
He told a reporter last week that he was having a marvellous time on his yacht off the coast of Turkey. A colour-ful character, he likes extravagant gestures. He spent an estimated £5m flying 100 friends to his 55th birthday party in the Maldives earlier this year where they were reportedly entertained by George Michael and Jennifer Lopez.
Confronted by The Sunday Times over the workers’ allegations, Green told one reporter that he had previously threatened to punch her colleague “on the nose . . . and throw him out of a window”.
The factories in Mauritius produce clothes for his firm, Arcadia, which owns Topshop, Topman, Burton, Dorothy Perkins and Miss Selfridge. Last year Green signed up the super-model Kate Moss to design a range of clothes for Topshop.
Critics say the low wages and long hours amount to “slave labour”. Neil Kearney, of the International Textile, Garment and Leather Workers Federation, said: “Because of the economic conditions of a country like Mauritius, companies are unable to attract local labour. Instead they recruit migrant workers, who pay a significant fee for the job. Many migrant workers who go to work in these garment factories are like slaves.”
Workers making his clothes, many of whom were fearful of talking to a reporter, described how they are kept in crowded dormitories and work from 7am until late. “When I go to bed at the end of the day, I lay down and weep,” said one woman.
“There is a lot of pressure on us to get our targets. If we do not reach the target of 50 pieces [segments of T-shirts] per hour, then we are sent back to our dormitories and suspended,” she claimed.
The woman, a Bangladeshi worker at Compagnie Mauricienne de Textile (CMT), which makes clothes for Topman, said she had to work 12-hour days for £64 a month.
A worker at Star Knitwear, which makes T-shirts for the Topshop Kate Moss range, said they were paid £112 a month - equivalent to about 40p an hour. The T-shirts are sold in Topshop for £12.
There is growing concern within the UK fashion industry over the use of Third World labour. Jane Shepherdson, who resigned from Topshop as brand director last year, said consumers cannot keep buying cheap clothes and “not ask where they come from”.
Green does not own factories which manufacture clothes for his high street stores. He instead uses a network of independently owned factories which make garments to specifications provided by the tycoon. The process is supervised by Arcadia staff.
Arcadia is one of the few high street retailers which has not signed up to the ethical trading initiative, which sets out minimum standards and whose signatories include Next, Marks & Spencer, Tesco and Asda.
Instead, Green’s company has drawn up its own code of conduct for suppliers. This stipulates that employees should not work more than 48 hours per week. However, CMT confirmed last week that its workers were contracted for up to 70 hours, while Star said its employees usually worked 60 hours.
Yesterday Green said he was treating the allegations seriously and would investigate. He said that monitoring conditions in factories he did not own was a complicated process: “I am interested in getting things right. We have processes and procedures which all factories sign up to.
“I sent inspectors to factories to look at the working conditions, to see that they are not working in sweat-shops, that the working conditions are good. I can’t stand there and count how many hours people are working. Last night I interviewed a woman who was there four weeks ago. She said the factory was in excellent shape.
“You are telling me that factories are happy to breach our code of conduct. I’ve got to look into it.”
A spokesman for Moss declined to comment.
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I was on my way to Topshop this weekend to buy a new winter coat with my sister and sister in law, who in turn were also looking to buy theirs. However, upon reading this article, we decided to go to Next instead and spend our money there, knowing that we are not lining a greedy, selfish mans pocket
Debbey, Warrington, England
this really saddens me deeply, that we can have all these little luxuries, yet another human is suffering, and being tortured, in a way, as a human, just to provide a little food for the family......
Shaida Parveen, high wycombe, bucks
very good and informative article.
so many people out there buy cheap topshop without knowing the truth about its manufacture.
there should definitely be more information going on.
despite living in mauritius, i was not aware of the seriousness of this situation myself and i am sure many other mauritians do not know what is going on in their own country behind the big factory facades.
its true that we need those foreign workers, its true that our country needs this development. but it should not be to the detriment of human rights.
thank you for writing this and making the british people know about the clothes they are wearing.
K.A, Tombeau Bay, Mauritius
I really want a winter coat. I really like the ones in the new designer style Topshop range. I will not buy anything from Topshop ever again until they stop the slave labour that they are (Green & associated companies etc. ) entirely responsible for.
Green says it is difficult to monitor factories he does not own. It is not; he needs to take a big step back and stop his selfish greed. He should not use factories without good working conditions/wages in the first place. He should then frequently monitor them. This should be enforced. If it is not he should not be allowed to trade. There should be laws to stop this. He should and could still make money being ethical.
What a horrible man. (and his wife/friends) They have all this fun at the expense of many peoples suffering.
Jo , Salisbury, U.K.
I'm a Mauritian and Would to a say a big thanks for that person who has written this article because people who are coming from, specially China, are treated as slave and are paid wrongly.
N.Gopee, beau-bassin, mauritius
I can't believe that some people are supporting topshop by saying "if Green didnt do it someone else would" I'm studying fashion design as a degree and im writing my dissertation on the subject of exploitation its peoples ignorance towards the matter that lets things like this continue! Fashion may be fun and frivolous but its also wicked and manipulative. The paradox between the world of fashion and the world of apparel manufacture can not be allowed to continue, so next time you pick up an item of topshop clothing and pay that extra £20 because Kate Moss endorsed it just try and think of the poor "Nimble Fingers" that suffered to make it.
Jenna, Newport, South Wales,
I think this is quite an unfair comparison as the cost of living in mauritius cannot be compare to that of UK as is the salary. I live in the UK and i am very aware under what conditions some people work in this country. So it best to investigate here first before going somewhere else. Beside my mum was working in a textile factory to give myself and my brother an education and today i have my own company in london employing people. Yes the work are not easy but can someone tell me whose job is easy. I dont think Mauritius is a good example for slave labour look first in UK an dthen may be India or China.
Vishal Ramanah, London, UK
As I gathered up from most of the comments from locals - Mauritians,there seems to be some disparity between what is portrayed by the said article and what these Mauritians claim to be the situation through their eyes. My family spent a 4 weeks holiday 'in paradise' back in 2004, we stayed at the family house of a Mauritian friend (settled in the UK) which is in Point d'eau Sables. That was a 15 minutes jogging distance from one of the main CMT factory of the island.i regularly came across these 'slave' workers going to work at 7h30 am while i would set off for a morning jog,my family would even come across these people in the evening while we would be on our way back... let me clearly say that these people (chinese and bangladeshis easily distinguished from locals) looked altogether happy, healthy although in the evening tired (just like u n me on our way back home from work!!). they r always in small groups,giggling n joking aloud, specially the chinese women.All moving freely.
Ray , Croydon, UK
I worked at CMT two years ago, I was part of the management team in charge of the foreign workers. I believe the people who mentioned that they've never witnessed anything like what's been described in the article are probably new or not directly connected to the factory workers or simply don't read the newspapers. Someone mentioned that why don't the chinese workers complained about the abuse. If you go back to February 2005 when chinese workers rioted because one of their colleagues having health problems worked to death. Who's fault was it? Those who mentioned that their living conditions are not as bad as in the article, have you ever visited one? I did, on many many occasions, it was part of my job to inspect the dorms. If you consider 20 bathrooms for 1000 workers is up to the norm, then think again when you finished a 15 hour shift and wait in line to take a shower. And then when it's your turn you find out that all the hot water been used up by the 49 people in front of you.
Roshan, Port Louis, Mauritius
This platform is highlighting yet another very serious issue. We have heard about buyers squeezing suppliers on prices but the case about a London-based Fair-Trade licensee defaulting payment against goods produced in Madagascar must be the jewel in the crown! Having stayed in that country for some time, I do know what it means on having to miss out on meals!
Brian, Selkirk, UK
DON'T BELEIVE EVEYTHING YOU READ. I know Star Knitwear personally and have worked there as a university student and I have never witnessed anything like slavery there. In fact, the workers are very happy. Most women working there earn more than their husbands working in government positions. They have a football team that regularly wins tournaments. They organise picnics to the seaside on weekends. I have never seen workers praise the management and owners as they do their. There living conditions may be improved but in many cases, the workers themselves are to blame for keeping the living place in such teribble conditions.
Labour is not cheap in Mauritius. Big names like Armani dont come to Mauritius because labour is cheap. They come because there is quality, reliability of supply and social responsibility.
The quality of life of a worker earning £150 a month in Mauritius is better than someone earning £5/h in UK. They dont fill houses with electronic gadgets but they live well.
Shyam, Nottingham,
As someone who is also in the textile manufacturing sector,I can appreciate and fully sympathize with the fact that Karine's mum and the workers are having a very hard time with the payment issue.Actually,it might help by putting a name to this wholesaler or else just by naming the brand as in doing so I'm sure both the third world suppliers and the first world retailers in UK would refrain from dealing with him.Just a few years back,it was easy to take possession of goods and disappear into thin air.In today's wired world (timesonline is a case in point), this wholesaler would be out of business in a flash and would not be hired even to sweep the shop floor afterwards!
Anil, Triolet, Mauritius
There is one thing that everyone seems to be overlooking.
"They pay up to £725 to get the job, equivalent to seven monthsâ earnings." Isn't that alone exploitative?
Dani, Toronto, Canada
I am Girisha B .I have been a placement student at CMT for the last two months.
La CMT is a fruit of hard work and ambition and this has drawn my interest to achieve these principles.
I NEVER witnessed what you have described in your articles, rather I have always seen team spirit prevailing amongst all, and am it expatriates or local workers.
Dear Mr." Shravan Seeruttun", you are totally wrong. It happens that you have landed somewhere else than at CMT. Please stay away in comments and stop blacklisting a company that has contributed a lot to the development of the country and social work by integrating youngsters on the labour market( be it low performers or intellectuals, RESPECTING THE MERITOCRACY RULES).
PLEASE SWEEP BEFORE YOUR HOUSE PRIOR TO UTTERING SUCH BLUNDERS.
P.S: WOULD THESE SO-CALLED "VICTIMS'" BENEFIT FROM ALL THE FACILITIES PROVIDED BY THE COMPANY HAD THEY STAYED IN THEIR MOTHERLANDâ¦
Girisha Bansropun, St-Pierre, Moka, Mauritius
The situation concerning textile workers is unfortunately true in most cases. Even mauritian workers are not spared. They have to meet the quota imposed to them (eg 50pcs of jeans/hour), or they get suspended or fired. The textile workers are often under protected, and they dont know their rights. Factories close every six month, leaving hundreds of workers to their griefs. Government of Mauritius is trying to retaliate to the article above, by saying that they conduct regular work condition check in factories. How can a minister earning over 1000 Pounds understand the problems of those workers. They (political nominees) just sit all day long doing nothing, and when the truth comes from a newspaper, they are offended. Prime Minister, is even considering amending laws, to "regulate", private owned radio stations. National TV is biased. It seems noboday can critize the Gov. And they are wondering why the elite of the population is moving abroad for work! Dare to change people!
Ataaullah J, Paris, France
I'm a student in France. My mum is in knitwear manufacturing in Madagascar. In December of last year, a wholesaler in London took possession of a large consignment of pullovers, and since then there hasn't been any sign of his payment for the goods despite continual reminders. I'm well aware that my mum and her co-workers have been really struggling to keep themselves afloat but I think it will not take very long before the whole thing collapses. This wholesaler even claimed to have a "fair trade" license. In the meantime, the cushion provided by the small factory to 250 poor families is fast deflating. I salute your reporters' quest to uncover such unethical practices along the supply chain.
Karine, Paris, France
I am a Mauritian living in the UK. Cheryl has seriously confused his figures. A graduate would earn Rs15,000 per month, NOT per year. I employ a number of people in Mauritius and wages are not bad at all for locals considering the standard of living is considerable lower than here in the UK.
However, it would appear that the foreign workers in the textile factories refered to in the article are being somehow exploited. The good thing is this case is now high profile in Mauritius , making the headlines of the local media and I know for a fact that the authorities are concerned and looking into this case very closely.
Rao Ramah, West Midlands, UK
I don't know what is more disgusting: the misleading and exploiting those Asian workers by greedy "entrepreuneurs" or the reactions of many Mauritians below who want us to believe that Rs 3000 - Rs 6000 is a "pretty good salary in Mauritius and well worth what the workers are enduring".
On November 2nd the island commemorates "the arrival of indentured labourers". Maybe Mauritians should consider cancelling out that public holiday to reflect their present-day point of view on how foreign low-skilled workers should be treated in their factories.
JDR, Lyon, France
The point is not that there are workers who signed a contract to work 1 hours a day, 7 days a week. In this planet you will find children sold by their parents for a sack of grain. Bonded labourers can be easily found in India. Teenaged girls sell themselves for money. That does not mean civilised people anywhere in the world should take advantage of the weak and the powerless. Western companies have tremendous influence - if they insist on sourcing from companies that have 8 hour work days, fair wages, proper living conditions, the plight of the workers will improve. If Western Capitalists decide to exploit third world labour instead , who can stop them?
Old Fashioned, Montreal , Canada
Sharing some truth!
Opinions may differ but founded ones rarely do.
Mauritian textile has allowed a decent living for thousands of families in such a small country. CMT is our pride flag for its determination in succeeding where others have failed.
To quote Jeffrey Sachs, he said âMy concern is not that there are too many sweatshops, but that there are too fewâ based on the economic theory of comparative advantage.
Alike guest workers working in our factories are better off after their employment.
CMT has more Mauritians than expatriates. Not true to say we canât recruit Mauritians.
Training programs run at all levels to induct inexperienced persons in the professional world. This is opportunity. We believe in people to quote our mission statement âpromoting training and development for our peopleâ
Thousands are happy and proud to belong to this organization. Committed we remain this is our love for our organization.
Cougen, LTK, Mauritius
Wow... thank you so much for your 'enlightening' review. 64 pounds a month isn't too bad in a country where coffee doesn't cost 1.30 pounds but 0.16 pounds.
Bilal, Port Louis, Mauritius
Am Yannick .I have been a placement student at CMT in the year 2006 and came back in 2007 for an other placement not by draw but by pasion and interest.I spent month there now.I am a scholar with a full paid sponsorship by CMT for my last university academic year.23 students have benefited a free MSc course last year. I NEVER witnessed what you have described in your articles,rather I have always seen team spirit prevailing amongst all,be it expatriates or local workers. Seems like you" Shravan Seeruttun" landed somewhere else than at CMT.Anyway by choice you are away -Please stay away in comments also.
Yannick M, Curepipe, Mauritius
It nice to see things from a first world eye and picking on country striving to get out of the poverty trap such Mtius. Plse check on China where things are worst but no western newspaper will publish for fear of Chinese retaliation on investment and market. What about the Polish and eastern european in London, do they get a fair deal despite the strict Euro law? Also can we have a fair account of what happening in Irak, the true story?
Vikash GD, Quatre Borne, Mauritius
What if the agent lied to them at the time of recruting? This is waht happens in most cases, like how Mauritius was populated. The people are given false hopes and see it differently upon arrival. This is always the case with foreign workers in Mauritius.
V, London, UK
C.Newell
I would like to point out the following, that 100% of P. Greenâs arcadia products are made in different countries of the world.
The total combined turnover of CMT and Star Knitwear is 65 Million pounds out of which a mere 12 Million pounds is supplied to Arcadia.
As all purchases made by Arcadia would be in the region of 3 Billion pounds and the combined supply of these 2 factories is .4% not even one percent.
sunil H, Port Louis, Mauritius
To Jash (from Illonois): just because someone has chosen something doesn't make it ok. I'm guessing that most of these factory workers wouldn't consider it their 'ideal' choice, but the best considering their circumstances. If you couldn't get a job and would, for example, be unable to feed your children, but I would pay you to either cut off one of your own legs, or one of your fingers, and so you CHOSE to cut off a finger, that wouldn't mean that it was ok for me to pay you to do so. The same principle applies here. Choice doesn't make it ok.
More generally, I think Keith Lawson's right: if we want the exploited workers to be less exploited, then its western consumers that have to make sacrifices. You can't blame this on multinationals - whatever Green's extravagant living costs are, most of his £5 billion are in investments, and his profit margin narrow. More for them means less for us (higher prices to pay the wages), and for ethical consumerism to work we have to accept that.
Daniel Paget, Bath, UK
I am a Mauritian studying in the UK and one of the reasons I decided to do so was exactly because I had a hard time while on industrial placement at the Compagnie Mauricienne de Textile. I congratulate the reporters of this article for having the guts to bring this issue to light. I personally witnessed with my own eyes the treatment assigned to Chinese and Mauritian workers alike in CMT. At that time, there was no one to bring the issue to because the CMT boss is in good terms with many ministers and the likes. The things I witnessed are numerous and really appalling. But truth always triumphs. Well done Claire and Robert. Keep it up.
Shravanlall Seeruttun, Bedfordshire, UK
Since when was Mauritius a Third World Country?
Its an island like the UK is an island, with top millionaires hotels, state of the art banks and multinationals, 80% of the education are university grads and a foreign direct investment of $35 billion to India.
Is that a third world country?
Jash, Illinois, USA
I am a Mauritian working in the US and I must admit that the facts placed in this article are true and precise. Factory foreign workers in Mauritius do stay in drastic conditions with meagre salary. There are also Chinese and Taiwanese who works in these factories. But one has to bear in mind, that no-one forced them to come to Mauritius, it was their choice. Such as you see a lot of foregn university graduates working in Mcdonalds in London, again it is their choice.There are considerable amount of labour laws in force in Mauritius, well qualified labour inspectors and a excellent work environment. Another contrast for example, in dubai, the land where there are mosques opposite clubs, there is another problem in which foreign workers come to work and end up into prostitution. The solution is simply to severely fine or imprisoned these employers and deport these immigrants. If you dont like the pay and conditions, its simple, quit and go back to your country.
Jash, Illinois, USA
Dear Madam,
I would like to point out the following, that 100% of P.Green's arcadia products are made in different countries of the world. the total combined turnover of CMT and Star Knitwear is 65 Million ponds out of which a mere 12 Million ponds is supplied to arcadia.
Therefore all purchases made by Arcadia would be in the region of 3 Billion pounds and the combined supply of these 2 factories is .4% not even one percent.
Therefore i regret that Mauritius Textile Industry is being targeted and we have been used as a country example based on the experience of some workers who feel to have been exploited. I think your target is P.Green and it is unfair that you have used Mauritius, or its textile industry unfortunately will get a bad name for nothing. there are morethan 80 000 People employed in the textile sector of which more than 85% are local people and may be by giving such bad publicity many importers and retail groups might refrain from placing their orders in Mauritius
sunil H, Port Louis, Mauritius
COnt................
people and may be by giving such bad publicity many importers and retail groups might refrain from placing their orders in Mauritius. I hope in the future your reporter and editor do weigh the damage it could do to an entire industry in an island which depends on it for their jobs and livelihood. If you are unhappy about Mr Greenâs lifestyle change your tax laws and close the loopholes.
sunil H, Port Louis, Mauritius
I'm from Mauritius and I can tell you that this article does not really reflect the reality. Those workers live in dormatories? Yes that was part of the contract! Their salaries are low? Yes that was part of the contract! They should have realised that when they read the contract and not sign in the first place. What are they still doing in Mauritius then? Why is it not mentioned in your article about those who've been renewing their contracts and been staying in the country for years. What about chinese workers? Why are they not complaining? They represent more than 40% of all those asian workers! I know that 64pounds is not a lot of money but it really means a lot if you use it in another country (it should be obvious!?). Everytime there's been complaints and riots, it's been solved through negotiations. It's good to know that India has a very strong bond with Mauritius not only on the cultural side but on the business side as well. They haven't mention anything about it......so?
Mike, Mauritius,
This is a blatant example of the reasons our current economic system is sick and twisted. And yet people still defend it and verbally attack people who register their disgust and discontent and dare to offer alternatives.
Capitalism/consumerism is the new religion. Is it making us into happier, better people? Oh yeah, I forgot, we're supposed to blame all the ills of our society on immigrants and terrorists- silly me!!
Thank you for your comment, Steve Jenkins. These women certainly do have my respect. 'Sir' Philip-i'm dead rich and don't give a stuff, haha I can get away with paying no tax while the government spends millions on trying to convict benefit fraudsters-Green on the other hand.....
Katy, Nottingham,
it is good that the media uncovers these things. However, you only have to look at al the racks of cheap clothes - a dress for £10 and a T shirt for £4 to realise that wages must be very low where these are made. And of course, whatever happens Philip Green will make sure he gets his profit.
The clothing industry has used clever marketing to persuade us that it is 'OK to buy cheap and wear it once'. However we should not allow ourselves to be so manipulated.
If we choose, we can buy good quality clothes -that last for a season - or even 2. And we can wear these clothes with peace of mind because nobody has been exploited to make them.
We need to choose the right shops and that means NOT choosing any of the Arcadia brands.
Shops that do have ethical policies around manufacturing should make even more of this- in their own marketing. I for one would be very receptive.
Stop and THINK at the cash desk in Topshop - do you want to line Philip's pockets and support slavery?
Helen, Berks, UK
This is NOT the true picture. One has to consider the cost of living and standard of living. People who have chosen to travel to the Paradise Island to work and enjoy the hospitality of the island should think again. I follow the news and it is now known that 37 ring leaders from Sri Lanka have been expelled.
These people give a bad name for the island. One needs to visit the island to endure the peace loving and paradise atmosphere.
It is also true that people are becoming too greedy and materialistic to catch with Europe.
JaVED, London, UK
The ethical trading initiative should not be voluntary but compulsary. Self regulation such as this is a joke....
Michael Conlon, London,
I have read this with great interest and great concern. A problem for many of us is that, although we would like to be able to buy clothes that are fairly traded, and made of organically produced textiles by people who are properly paid for their work, the sad truth is that most of us can't afford it....
Jane Ennis, London, UK
I just read this article online, and wondered what message the Sunday Times was giving by surrounding this article with features on fashion including clothes made by Arcadia Group? Jane Sheperdson is right, consumers cannot keep buying cheap clothes and ânot ask where they come fromâ -but equally the media should question their own role in promoting cheap fashion.
Lucy Series, Bristol, UK
I am a Mauritian who has been living in London for the last 3 years. £4 a day is approx Rs60,000 a year in Mauritian terms (including 4 weeks of UNPAID holidays and no work during weekends - a lot of these people do work during weekends). This is much more than what most managers earn in Mauritius. If I were to go back with a degree in Computing, my starting salary would be Rs15,000 a year. So I would say, the factory workers get paid considerably more than the average Mauritian. Also a lot of the workers are from China (I was surprised to hear there were some from Bangladesh). I do admit that their accomodation is pretty terrible; a lot of them get cramped in one small room. But hey they prefer to work in Mauritius than in China so it must mean something about the salary and living conditions in Mauritius compared to China!
Cheryl, London,
I am travelling since many years around the Globe cause of my Job.Do you really believe thats the only case?Go to Dubai to all Luxury Hotels and ask the waitress or the room service for their salaries.I can show you companies where 24people live in a 20sqm room.And they even share their beds.And for whom?For all tourists and people living there to support their luxury life.In Shenzhen/China I visited a manufacturer of decoration stuff for christmas etc.Did you ever seen pregnant womans working there? Glueing parts together under conditions which you cannot imagine?The painters are exchanged every 6 month cause their lungs are injured from all the poison vaporisation. You ride a car?Then maybe you should ask if the oil is coming from Nigeria.People in Eastern Niger Delta suffering cause of Violation of the basic laws.We may all should think about our way of life.Poor and rich will always be, but....sometimes we all should take a look in the mirror....Fairness and respect is what counts
Matthias Dressel, Singen, Germany
Nowadays companies can be enterprising without exploiting people, its called 'fair trade'. With all the money Philip Green and Arcadia group earn and they can't hire independent inspector who adhere to the Ethical trading initiative or look for decent factories who have proper codes of conduct and don't treat their workers like their working in a battery farm. How difficult is it for a Arcadia group to organise ??
More people are waking up to the benefits of 'fairtrade', and if Topshop don't improve their factories abroad, people will stop buying from them, its as simple as that. Well done to Jane Shepherdson for having the guts to resign from Topshop and use her talent to help Oxfams redesign their outlets and promote fair trade.
Couldn't Kate Moss vet these factories that her collection is being made in, or is that beneath her? she was probably too high to even think about it.
Sharon, ilford, UK
This ia new form of slavery and clonialism. This workers have not unions or working rights. In recent years may women and children have burned to death in factories in Dhaka. Left locked in by their owners to prevent theft on night shift so they had not way of escaping the ravaging fire.
The multinationals and the oweners are the only ones benefitting from 21st century slave labour. Thes peopel are climbing of the rich list ladders on the bones of these regularly exploited and often dead.
Bangaldeshi, UK,
If we remove the jobs from these slave labourers, then they will have no way to earn enough for food and then we'd essentially be killing them of starvation. Either way its a no win situation. Obviously governments of their respective countries must crack down on slave owners who are not paying their labourers.
Mohammed, London, UK
It is no surprise that this is the case within Philip Green's empire. I work at a factory in Turkey which is incredibly well-run, the workers work 5 day weeks, 9 hrs a day and are paid well with full health insurance, pension contributions etc. They have paid holidays, transport to and from work and hot lunch provided free every day, as is the law here.
Due to us following these procedures we are continually deemed too expensive for many retailers including Arcadia. Those retailers either look towards the Far East where the practices described in the article are common or find less scrupulous factories in Turkey where govt insurance is not paid.
I hope that the trend continues of consumers continuing to ask questions regading the origin of their garments and the conditions in which they are made so that this horrendous exploitation of workers can cease.
Victoria, Bursa, Turkey
You should blame the public for buying these goods. Just like people objecting to superstores taking over from village shops...then they all shop there regardless of local businesses! You can alway vote with your feet and not enter these shops!
David Conner, Ipswich, England
This is no surprise: it's common knowledge, surely, that the price of clothes, gadgets and general consumer goods has been kept artificially low by the use of semi-slave labour throughout the developing world particularly Asia. That's why inflation has been so unusually low over the past few years despite strong economic growth - companies in the developed world benefit as they can charge £10 for a T-shirt that cost them 10p to make and consumers in the developed world benefit from cheap goods and from low interest rates due to unusually low inflation.
Unftil manufacturing is properly regulated for ethical and environmental standards, nothing will change. But are consumers here willing to pay double the current price for consumer goods for the sake of ethics? I doubt it: inflation would also go up, which means interest rates would go up, which means house prices would fall. It's a complex system.
MB, Edinburgh,
"As you judge" as someone once said. I see quite a number of people here saying "what's the problem? When there are no jobs you take what you can get, life's not fair". I hope they remember that when as seems increasingly likely the world economy comes crashing down and the only job left to them is putting grapes in Mr green's mouth for 22pence per hour while they live in their £200k negative equity millstone slum until the banks evict them. There but for the grace of God go I and I see precious little grace on some of these postings.
John, Dundee, UK
I live in Mauritius. GBP 65 - 112 is not a paltry sum over here. You must consider purchasing power parity; bread is worth 9p; under 70 p for half a pound of chicken; an unbranded t-shirt is sold in markets for 75p; monthly rents for a mid-range 3 bedroom house just over GBP 45;
For comparison, a primary teacher earns a bit more than GBP 120 and a junior doctor practising in a state-run hospital would earn a little more than GBP 300, as would an IT graduate with 2 to 3 years experience.
Comparisons based on exchange rates and absolute pricing is an easy way for first world journalists to create headline news...
Kevin, Port Louis, Mauritius
This is slavery, pure and simple. Third world sweat shop labor doesn't lower prices or maintain lower prices, Anyone who purchases these goods can tell from prices. What it allows is for the CEO and corporate owners to steal the difference in wages that would have been paid to a worker, in say the UK, because they can pay third world wages. When you buy slave labor garments and other items, you are paying a high price for an inferior item, as quality is increasingly undercut and you are perpetuating slavery.
Take a stand and demand an end to outsourced manufacturing. Stop buying into the meme of the need to outsource jobs to compete. It is the only way you will create jobs for your own citizens and improve quality of goods. It will also force foreign nations to have to start providing better wages and quality of life for their citizens.
Jeanne, Grand Rapids,MI, US
In a global economy production will move where labour costs are lowest. CMT is a top 20 company in Mauritius with profits of nearly Rs 1,4 billion last year. So not only the buyer is super rich.If Mr Green did not do it someone else would have done it. I have outsourced my production in China and Indonesia. Does it mean I am less concerned on moral issues raised in the article? If we start talking about moral issues then we might as well start from the days of colonialism....
Vikram, Flacq, Mauritius
Claire Newell highlighted the plight of textile workers; unemployment and job opportunities are something the Mauritian Government never quite cope with; their main educational aim is to train Mauritians to find work âabroadâ. 22p an hour is most welcome when you have no alternative.
Living and working in a tropical âparadiseâ can have a decidedly negative downside.
Michael J Morris
Working and living in paradise does have its downside, a hard lesson I was about to learn. Mauritius is supposedly envied for their multi cultural ethnic diversity, but sadly has many separatists that believe blaming all their ills on others will be their salvation. The old empire still gets most of the blame; Mauritians chose independence decades ago, but much of the old colonial infrastructure remains and is constantly used and abused to hide a tradition of corruption.
More Mauritian insight, contact me.
Mike Morris, London,
continue: I hope in the furture your reporter and editor do weigh the damage it could do to an entire industry in an island which depends on it for their jobs and livelihood. if you are unhappy about Mr Green's lifestyle change your tax laws and close the loopholes
sunil H, Port Louis, Mauritius
Check the Clean Clothes Campaign website how it could be done... http://www.cleanclothes.org
There is also a range of other labels such as Kuyichi that have stylish and fairly traded and produced fashion!
Jamila, London,
"consumers cannot keep buying cheap clothes" - what is so cheap about £12 for a T-shirt????
And if it costs pennies to make, who gets the other 11 quid??? Moss and Green??
No, what the consumers need to wake up to is the way in which their own fashion gullibility is being exploited.
Oh, and by the way Mr. Kearney, slaves don't get paid 40 p an hour - they don't get paid anything!
Bill McCann, Suzhou, China
As others have stated, people are not forced to take these jobs - presumably those not able to take the jobs on offer are even more underprivileged. Life is not fair.....
Chris, Stockport, UK
Anyone notice that the illiterates (viz. "KG" and "Ace") seem to see no wrong in this corrupt system whereby the poor and ignorant are conned into thinking that there is no other way to live while the slavemasters swan about on their yachts avoiding taxes? Until the tax system is tightened so much that they have nowhere to run, exploitation like this will continue because fiscal squeeze is the only language Green and his associates understand.
Barry, Greenock, Strathclyde
this is a practice which has been going for some time, particularly for third world countries like Mauritius where cheap labour means very cheap labour.This sort of practice is encouraged by the administration in place and most of the time, will just turn a blind eye to this growing injustice.
This is nothing new for the Mauritian government who is acutely aware of this imported labour problem. It is all too common a practice and no one is bold enough to stand up to this. It is time that this problem is seized and to stop people being traded as slave labour. The problem is squarely on its door step and the Mauritain authorities must reasses this growing problem and to stop pampering corporate profits.
Alan Green must put a stop to this, even though he cannot stand there and count the hours those poor migrants are working.
Well done ST for highlighting this problem.
And to say, that i am originally from this country, well it is a sad fact !!
BDN, london, united Kingdon
If I had that much money, then I hope I would have better taste in the way I spent it !
DAVID VINTER, Louth , Lincs., UK
The reality of Britain's most popular shop for women's clothes - after M&S - also owned by Mr Green - same thing going on there, perhaps? - can only serve as a damning indictment of the British public's obsession with low-price goods, which is fuelled and abused by government and business alike.
Marco, Birmingham, uk
It is there descion to work, they are not forced, the answer is if you dont like the wages, dont take the job!!
KG, Eastbourne, Sussex
Well done to the Times for highlighting this issue again. Call me cynical but I think that Philip Green's statement that he'll look into this issue is probably an aside to gain some time in the hope that another story will bury this one. If he were as interested in protecting the rights of vulnerable workers making his clothes as he was in threatening journalists he would've dealt with immediately. I genuinely feel that he couldn't care less about the exploitation of these people. I have a teenage daughter that loves TopShop but I now know that the only way to make a stance against this practice is for consumers to refuse to buy goods from the Arcadia group as I will. Until he can demonstrate that these workers receive a fair wage my daughter and sisters alike will shop elsewhere. A powerful man like Philip Green can do this if he really wants to. After all nothing can make a company listen and make changes to enhance workers rights like a profit warning.
Shoma, Dubai, UAE
While it is true that we cannot in the UK manufacture at the same unit cost as Eastern economies, we can certainly produce at prices which would allow retailers to make a perfectly adequate profit on their current selling prices.
The reality is that everyone is being exploited under the current system - the Asian workers, the British consumer and manufacturer. A number of people are making fortunes out of this and not even paying their fair share of taxes.
There's an easy answer: don't buy at these inflated high street prices.
MarkS, Leeds,
So what is wrong this has been going on for centuries put the shoe on the other foot if we were the asians we would be in those sweatshops.infact at one stage in history we vwere .down the mines Etc. Its called enterprize?life isnt fair.but its worked for generations .......
Ace Riley, manchester , uk
My husband & I have been working in Asia for 5 years . Our work brings us into contact on a daily basis with 'underprivilidged, undereducated Thai women'. Many of these ladies are from the very poor North Eastern provinces .. They work 8am-5pm 6 days a week, & a compulsory overtime schedule of 2-3 hours on top of this daily. Their salaries are approx. 7,000 baht a month. Depending on the exchang rate thats around 100UKP for a long working month. These girls send money home to their families, pay their rent & live. Our job is to teach life skills, & enough English to help them get by in this ever increasing Western influenced Society. This then gives them the confidence to go on to further education. Many of our 'students' are now attending [ in their free time ] University or high school. This they also pay for out of their meagre earnings. They may work in sweat shops, be victims of almost ' slave labour' but they have so much pride and dignity. One must admire & respect them.
Stevie Jenkins, Bangkok, Thailand
First you have to prove workers are FORCED to work. In the 1960s the YHA paid me £2 a week. I may have been a fool but I was not a slave and the YHA were not slave owmers. Evryone who buys from Topshop also benefits. or are you simply complaining that bosses get more than workers? Or that the worst sweatshops are Muslim?
Chris, Malvern, UK
BTW £4 a day is a lot of money in these countries. I dont think any worker earns more than £1 a day. Teachers, technicians etc earn around £4 a day.
ash, guildford, UK
Balzac said that 'behind every great fortune there is a crime' But what's new ?
The Arcadia and similar fortunes are based on use of very 'low cost' labour, much 'lower' than other clothing/fashion chains that have more conscience otherwise we'd all be on yachts of Turkey.
DM, Eastbourne,
The labour Green uses was happy to take the jobs,
what Green needs to do is reduce the price he charges the public then every one would have a win.
The buyer paying less and the worker having a job.
Barry Holmes, Christchurch, New Zealand
Yet more evidence on how these rich people we seem to idolise,actually make their money.It's by exploitation,nothing less than has been going on for centuries.
I am sure Mr.Green is having a "marvelous time" on his multi million pound yacht.
We will never solve the great injustices of the world until those at the top start taking responsibility for their actions.It's too easy to play dumb and say you have no control of the factories you don't own.
If the most powerful are at it,we have no chance of being able to expect others to act differently.
In a world without conscience,it's hardly suprising that we are facing increased violence,tensions and breakdowns of communities.
Money it seems, is the only religion in town.
James Currie, London, U.K
Clothes can only be cheap for one reason - underpaid labour. Until we have consciences about putting low price clothes on our backs the situation will never improve. Market demand is maintaining sweat shops and we now need ethical branding so we can make an informed choice as a consumer. Merely avoiding low cost clothes is part of an answer, but many expensive items are also made by "slave" labour - remember the Nike scandals? Retailers must offer up guarantees that their stock is not made by children or by adults working excessive hours and that an acceptable minimum wage is paid. In addition it would be nice to be told that healthcare benefits are included for the worker and family. Avoiding responsibility by going through middlemen (as Disney are reputed to do) is not acceptable. As a consumer, vote with your wallet.
Keith Lawson, Poole, Dorset
In fact Arcadia's Code of Conduct is word for word identical to the Ethical Trade Initiative. The Code is not the problem. The issues are a. enforcing the Code of Conduct through independant means of auditing factories and b. the reality that you can't buy cheap T-shirts and then expect the Asian factories to pay high wages to their workers. The whole supply chain needs to commit to a re-evaluation of its objectives.
I have just come back from a week of looking at factories in India and have a fairly good idea of what is happening at this end of the industry.
Valerie Goldsilk, Hong Kong, Hong Kong, China
I am very disappointed that Topshop are using slave labour to make their clothes! Considering how much the clothes cost, you would not expect this. I am glad that Mr. Green is looking into it, although he should have been checking the working conditiond in the first place! I hope this stops.
Naomi, London,
And yet you have featured Topshop products in some of today's editorial fashion features. Surely it would help if the Sunday Times/Times declined to feature products produced by 'slave labour' in their editorial and advertising columns. Perhaps this would provide Mr. Green and Topshop with more incentive to adhere to the agreed code of conduct, and get Arcadia to sign up to the ethical iniative, don't you think?
Anita Rieu, Lorgues, Var, France