Who doesn’t welcome the respite that summer holidays offer? The chance to
mooch about in a greying Boden hoodie and forget about the cone-heel
conundrum, whether jodhpurs do anything for your bottom or if this new
mid-length hemline will actually take off. Bliss, heh? Or it would be if the
glossies hadn’t published their autumn style supplements at the start of
July. In case you weren’t privy to the pull-out which accompanied that
freebie sun-glasses/bikini/sarong/beach mat the scariest thing I can tell
you about next season is that power dressing is back in all its body-hugging
glory. At best, it will be slick. At worst, it will be hard and ugly, which
is why we’ re calling her Warrior Woman. Either way, it’s the turn of the
modern, grown-up gladiator to take the spotlight. So load on the spikes,
leather and body padding. If I haven’t alientated 99 per cent of you who
might actually want to buy something over the next three months, the good
news is that there are plenty of other trends to dip into. We round up the
best of what’s out there.
Warrior Woman
The antidote to seasons of saccharine lightness and the logical conclusion to
the Eighties Bodycon movement that has been gathering momentum. Goodbye
Marie-Antoi-nette-ish ruffles, welcome back the mean, lean gym-machine. WW
is an umbrella term that encompasses punk studding, leather biker jackets,
shiny fabrics, tight mini-dresses and “body armour” padding. Think Lara
Croft but with more clothes on: look but don’t touch.We’re not too sure what
WW’s so mad about but presumably slipping into a PVC skirt and spiked heel
boots at 8.30 in the morning isn’t half as easy as that DVF wrap dress.
Evocative of sci-fi vixens and Skunk Anansie.
How to make this work
This is probably a touch too agressive for the No 72 bus so pick out elements:
slim, well cut trousers, narrow fitting capes and some streamlined knits in
black, grey, khaki or other “sludge” colours. Soften your hairstyle and skip
the rock-chic eye-liner and red lipstick. Big at Burber-ry, Marios Schwab,
Christopher Kane and YSL.
Pink and purple
This season’s brights were designed to be worn by bold confident women, but
how exactly does dressing up in bubble-gum pink work on grown-ups? Resist
the urge to wear either colour in cutesy-kidult clothes. Choose sleek tops
or dresses with little or, preferably, no detailing. If you’re feeling
particularly daring, layer colour tonally – a dirty pink with a fuchsia –
but make sure you choose different textures to break things up.
How to make this work
Pink and purple work well as an accent colour in accessories or to liv-en up
all that grey, navy and black. Furthermore, there’s a shade to complement
almost every skin-tone, so experiment to find the one that suits you. A
head-to-toe colour block might look good on the catwalk but it doesn’t
translate into real life. Victoria Beckham in her Legally Blonde 2 outfit
(pink dress and Hermès Bir-kin) is a case in point, so forget the matching
tights, scarves, gloves and hat combo unless you’re aged 17 or trying to be
ironic.
Forties tailoring
Don’t be fooled – this differs widely from the Mitford revival of a few years
back: this time those brooches, costume jewellery, fur tippets and head-toe
tweed are not part of the look. Instead, designers are influenced by strong
shoulders and narrow, nipped-in skirts or trouser suits in plum, navy and
grey. It’s a contemporary approach to power-suiting, taking Katharine
Hepburn’s nonchalant dressing and wide-leg trousers as a starting point.
How to make this work
Create a feminine line by cinching in your waist with a slim belt for an
elegant finish. Choose jewel-coloured accessories to add a jolt of colour to
muted shades. This is not the moment for cleavage and a St-Tropez tan –
think pale and interesting.
Do wear some mad, funky heels or shoe-boots to remind yourself that we are
living in 2007. Ensure tailored pieces fit properly, otherwise you’ll be
forever tugging at your outfit.
Avoid Forties hairstyles to escape wartime epic comparisons.
High-waisted
Rejoice at the death of the whale-tail. High waists can be extremely
flattering and elongate the body, but the trick is to ensure that the waist
is not too high as this can exaggerate the width of your bottom.
How to make this work
High waists look very chic with shirts. Now is also the time to dig out your
highest, chunkiest heels. Look for fabric that skims over the bottom and
tops of thighs rather than hugging it. Avoid any pockets or detailing on the
front panel as these will add bulk, as will heavy tweed fabrics.
Texture
After exhausting the EU’s cotton supply in the past few years, designers have
started to experiment with different fabrics: nylon, polypropylene and
plastics at Marni and exaggerated, chunky knits elsewhere.
How to make this work
Unless you’re a beanpole, you’re going to be a little lost without a belt to
bring in that waistline. Let’s be honest, Dennis the Menace striped,
oversized sweaters seen at Giles should be left on the catwalk. Look for
alternatives, such as Sonia Rykiel’s artfully draped cardigan coats that at
least have some shape. Knits work best with different layers but make sure
that there is a focus to your outfit. As a rule if you are going to go big
on top, you need a slimmer bottom half to balance things out. Again, extra
height to combat the extra width is a good idea. Different textures can be
interesting, but don't make it too complicated by adding lots of colour.
Mid-length
Overturning the golden style rule that skirts should never sit mid-calf —
cutting your leg at its widest point — designers have come up with just
that. Probably best avoided unless you are very tall or don't mind living
your life out in 5 inch heels. Otherwise, cheat with a pair of wide cropped
trousers which, cut "mid-length", could masquerade as a skirt.
How to make this work
Wear as high a heel as you can muster. Block heels have a more contemporary
feel than spindly ones and will also offer you more support. Wedges are a
no-no as they will only induce a geisha-style walk. If you're especially
petite, give this a miss and wear something that falls just an inch below
the knee to create the illusion of mid-length.
