Benetton resembles that acquaintance who, after a wild phase, becomes sober and serious and consequently commands much less of your attention. The Italian chain’s shock-tactics advertising of the Nineties served to make its cardigans hugely culturally significant. In the process, Luciano Benetton, the company’s founder, became one of the world’s most talked-about businessmen.

The current, more low-key – though occasionally zany – campaigns may be the reason why this group, which has 5,000 stores in 120 countries, today makes fewer headlines. Another is the growth of H&M and Zara, two other European retailers who also sell a mix of basics and the latest trends.

A fortnight ago, Oliviero Toscani, the photographer responsible for the images from Benetton’s rebellious period, raised a rumpus with pictures of an anorexic model for another label. This inspired me to survey the views of friends and colleagues on latterday Benetton. The most common response was: “Not been in there this decade.” This estrangement seemed all the more peculiar in light of the prominent positioning of some of the chain’s 48 UK outlets, including the Oxford Street store. The large branch in Brompton Road is seconds from Knightsbridge Tube station. It is also next door to H&M and yards from Zara, the duo that Benetton, now guided by deputy chairman Alessandro Benetton, Luciano’s son, is striving to equal.

The Brompton Road store’s white-and-steel interior showed Zara’s influence, as did the double-breasted coats in navy, grey and black (£99), while the range of dresses and separates was H&M - on one of its good days. I particularly liked the long V-necked pullovers (£45), the long-sleeved dresses in soft grey prints (£37) and blouses (£37), both from the Benetton label and from Sisley, the group’s slightly more formal line. The prices were pitched roughly at Zara’s level: not cheap, but affordable.

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Anne Ashworth finds some cool clothes – but a slightly dubious sense of humour

BACKGROUND

• Chain reaction: Debenhams

• Chain reaction: Oli mail-order catalogue

• When it comes curves, Bravissimo’s way in front

• Chain reaction revisited: Mango

But perhaps Benetton should be cautious about using Madame Tussaud’s as another role model. Shop dummies, placed around the store in lifelike poses, were as disconcerting as the billboards of the previous era. On the evening that I visited I was the only customer on the second floor and felt as if I was on the set of a movie where the mannequins came to life. I sensed a lingering attachment for the film-noir strategies of the past.

Benetton used to be associated with ranks of assistants robotically refolding sweaters in a way that defied you to untidy them. Now these garments are on hangers, a far less aggressive arrangement. Cross-over cardigans in all the united colours of Benetton (£35) filled the length of one wall. But my eyes were drawn more to the high and flat-heeled boots (£105-£170), flatteringly long in the leg and the equal of those in much more expensive Knightsbridge stores.

My past opinion of Benetton was that the publicity was fascinating, but the clothes dull. That view has now been reversed.

The links in the chain

Benetton’s 2006 pretax profits were €159 million on sales of €1.9 billion

Retail is detail

Layout: clean, well lit and spacious 7/10
Staff: friendlier than in the past 8/10
Changing rooms: comfortable 7/10
Bags: cheerful yellow colour, puny construction 5/10
Overall score: wacky image, great mainstream fashion 8/10

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