Hugo Boss sells clothes aimed at women who wish to smash through the glass ceiling glamor-ously kitted out and are willing to commit considerable funds to their wardrobe. This German chain is controlled by Valentino, the Italian couture group, which itself is one of the assets of the powerful private equity group Permira. There are 1,218 outlets worldwide and 33 in the UK, mostly franchises owned by Moss Bros.

As a result of this complex set-up, Hugo Boss has links both with New Look, the fast fashion chain that is part of the Permira portfolio, and with House of Fraser, Oasis, Whistles and the score of other stores belonging to Baugur, the Icelandic retail investor that has a large stake in Moss Bros.

I could claim that it was interest in this web of relationships that led me to visit the branch of Hugo Boss in the City. But this would be only partly true. The interior of the store seemed suddenly welcoming when freezing rain began to fall. The cream and cappuccino decor gave the place the look of a smart hotel: so much so that I thought for a moment that a waiter would ask if I wanted coffee.

But then I realised that the interior designer had probably used these tones to make business-traveller customers feel at home. The clothes would also seem reassuringly familiar to this clientele, borrowing elements from their favourite more expensive brands. A navy jacket (£429) and trousers (£195) and a black puff-sleeved shirt (£180) from the spring collection evoked MaxMara’s lush tailoring; a drapey black crepe dress (£335) put you in mind of Armani and a pristine pintucked white shirt (£165) was of superior Jermyn Street quality.

The eveningwear was up-to-the-minute but never extreme. It struck me that there is no such thing as a Hugo Boss signature style. But there may be a reluctance to preserve tradition in light of the role of Herr Boss, the founder, as designer of uniforms during the Nazi era.

I had half-expected that the staff would, in the usual manner of employees in upscale stores, stalk me around the shop. Instead, I was left in peace to sort through the sale rail, which held a higher-than-average proportion of smart pieces, such as a sleeveless oyster-coloured silk evening dress with a pleated skirt (£549 down to £279) and tunic dresses (down from £279 to £115). I left the store with a white T-shirt (down from £55 to £19) in a better mood than when I arrived. Coffee would add just that little extra, though.

THE LINKS IN THE CHAIN

Hugo Boss’s 2006 sales were €1.5 billion; net income was €129 million.

Retail is detail

Layout: a tasteful temple of taupe 8/10
Staff: discreet 7/10
Changing rooms: in need of a good vacuuming 4/10
Bags: a touch of bling amid the taupe 8/10
Overall score: eurochic for the upwardly mobile 8/10

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