Blame it on fashion’s oscillating mood (pencil skirts one minute, dirndls the next, and back to the beginning in a matter of months) but never before have we seen such demand for reviving defunct labels, especially the sort that are inextricably linked to their founders and have come to define an era.

If New York saw the resurgence of Herve Leger and Halston last week, then London proved it could enjoy its own style revival too, courtesy of the relaunch of Ossie Clark, the brand that has come to symbolise the Seventies as much as Biba. And yet for every success story – the Balenciagas and Lanvins of this fickle world who have succeeded in dusting off their label, diversifying its appeal and drawing in a whole new generation of consumers who may not even be aware of the brand’s heritage – there are plenty that never live up to the original hype. Because to revamp a brand successfully requires the following: deftly fusing the label’s spirit with a contemporary approach, while not appearing to be too literal, and all the while ensuring that it appeals to today’s audience. The current predilection for ruffles and vintagey floral prints are characteristic of Clark’s aesthetic. The collection is designed by Avsh Alom Gur, who has worked at Roberto Cavalli, Chloé and Donna Karan and is also showing at London Fashion Week under his own name.

In the Serpentine Gallery yesterday, where a concise presentation of only 15 outfits was given, there was certainly a nod to the “decade that style forgot”. Was it the peculiar shade of mustard in the kimono-style, belted dress? Or the row of ruffles on a tomato-red shirt? Perhaps. The silhouette was certainly present and correct; long, wide-leg trousers and knitted Lurex gowns. But there were some new takes: a splodgy, graffiti-style print on slouchy, V-neck tops and an unusual combination of blocks of pink, pale blue, cream and black that was at odds with the bold brights of the other pieces.

Other shapes that were a touch unconvincing were the ruffle-necked smocks in a similar print which could well struggle to slot into today’s fashion lexicon. It is early days, however. Another addition to London’s ever-changing roll call of designers was Edward Sexton, a Savile Row tailor who enjoyed a flourishing brand in the Sixties when he founded Nutters with his now-deceased partner Tommy Nutter and famously dressed the Beatles and Mick and Bianca Jagger, as well as Jackie Kennedy.

Certainly, sharp, beautiful tailoring is in London’s blood; you only have to look at the success that Alexander McQueen and John Galliano have enjoyed abroad. Trouser suits with longer-style jackets nipped in at the waist were exquisite, as was the piping detail on a camel cashmere version and the slick fit of a grey riding coat. The slits on some of the check skirts were a little higher than probably intended but then it’s not called “Sexton appeal” for nothing.

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