Lisa Armstrong, Fashion Editor
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Random highlights from London Fashion Week to date include antlers at Henry Holland, a leather helmet featuring a unicorn horn and a gold jumpsuit with its crotch somewhere round the ankles courtesy of a masked designer called Noki. And let us not, as if we could, forget the return to London after ten years of Dame Vivienne Westwood, the godmother of British fashion.
It wasn’t mainline Westwood that showed last night but Red Label, her more affordable defusion range (trousers from £90). Essentially these are her greatest hits — the original tartan mini cut asymmetrically, bondage shoes with chains tying them together, ribbed jumper dresses, high-waisted fishtail skirts and the sexiest jackets around, all with the inimitable Westwood cut.
Obviously there was a political placard or two, this time about Guantanamo Bay, borne aloft, naturally, by a bare-breasted model.
This was more fun than her Paris shows, which sometimes seem like laborious works in progress. The enthusiastic rent-a-mob of fashion — Kelly Osbourne and friends plus the relative newcomers Lily Allen, Cuba Gooding Jr and David Walliams added to the atmosphere. But the real kick came from seeing how what starts out as shocking can eventually end up in your wardrobe. Maybe if a truly inspiring, creative mind waits long enough the world catches up.
When a model daintily weaves down a sweeping staircase in an oyster-coloured cloqué full skirt and belted, hip-length jacket that makes Grace Kelly look like a slob you think, ‘Hang on, have I died and ended up in fashion hell?’ ie, a never-ending New York show with the ladies who pretend to eat lunch eyeing skirts at Oscar de la Renta.
This was not the afterlife but Asprey — the label that has had its ups and downs since working its way through a host of designers and about $550 million (£280 million) after its relaunch four years ago. The good news is that these pastel tweed suits and chiffon petal dresses are individually and impeccably crafted. As a complete package however it lacks a cool vibe. Given how heavily brands such as Mulberry and Burberry play on their British roots it seems perverse to be tailored so completely to a nebulous sense of über luxury that can be bought at many places.
Talking of Mulberry, it is finally getting serious about its clothes, bringing prices down to the mid-designer level (about £300-400 for a dress). Shaggy Mongolian jackets, Lurex trousers, pretty dresses made from cotton rosettes and flared skirts were worn with shiny, clunky soled boots, hitting all of the trends with the right attitude. Courtney Love, guest of honour, was more of a phantom of honour, not making it in person. Still, it was the crack of noon.
If it is attitude that you want, Luella is your label, with eclectic vintage for those who would rather not rummage through real vintage. Stand-out items included navy chiffon blouses (one of the great buys for next winter), with tiny white sprigs on them, a puff-shouldered tweed coat and wooden and tartan clog-brogue (clogue?) footwear. In the grand scheme of life the latter may not be an essential but it made me smile.
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