Sarah Vine
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Yesterday, at approximately 8.23am, I spotted a hole in my daughter's school tights. Time was of the essence, so I grabbed her, stood her up on the kitchen table, threaded a needle and darned them. The whole process took perhaps a minute and half (it would have taken less had she not wriggled and got a jab in her thigh), and by 8.30 we were out the door as usual. A little tear-stained, I'll grant you, but essentially unharmed - and with fully functioning (i.e, not showing her pants) hosiery.
It is not, I suspect, a common scene at many breakfast tables. Given the price of children's tights (roughly a pound a pair, less in some supermarkets), it seems hardly worth going to the bother of darning them - after all, they're cheaper than a cup of coffee. And yet I do. Mostly because my mother taught me how, so I can; but also because I just don't subscribe to the ideal of rampant consumerism that has permeated the high street in the past few years. Nor do I want my daughter to.
I would like her to appreciate her possessions, and not just because of the usual middle-class guilt about child labour in Bangalore; because I consider it a basic principle that children should know the value of things. Someone's worked hard to make those tights, and if they can be mended, they should be.
In reality, of course, there is very little one eccentric mother can do to fight the tide of mad consumerism, as I am reminded every time we walk past Woolworths and the children scream to be let loose among the cheap toys. But now it seems help may be at hand.
Earlier this week, Chinese clothing suppliers issued a warning that they would be demanding a 10 per cent price increase from British high street retailers, including Debenhams and French Connection. The cause? Higher wage costs in China and a sharp rise in the price of cotton. At the same time, Mintel, the retail forecaster, predicted that sales of so-called It bags were on the wane. That curious paradox of modern dressing - the £800 celebrity-endorsed handbag worn with the £2.99 high street T-shirt - looks to be on its way out.
Cheap - and I mean really dirt cheap - clothes have, over the past few years, contributed significantly to our increasingly frenzied disposable culture. The Chancellor may have decided to tackle plastic bags in the Budget; but what about the carbon footprint of the piles of fashion-frantic garments shipped halfway around the world? And what for? To be worn three or four times before being chucked in favour of an imperceptibly different but vital new version. No one even bothers cutting them up for rags any more.
This substitution of quantity for quality has led us to what we are now: a nation of fat, poorly dressed, greed monkeys with massive debts and the collective attention span of a gnat. I am not so stupid as to romanticise the make-do-and-mend culture of our grandmothers (although I do remember very fondly my gran's endless boxes of buttons, a constant source of delight as a child); but it seems that the pendulum has swung too far in the other direction.
A society whose every desire is immediately indulged has very little to look forward to. Nothing, or very little, is truly special any more. Just as sweets are no longer treats but everyday comestibles, clothes are no longer something covetable, long desired and much appreciated when finally worn.
If you drink nothing but port, you end up with gout. Cheap high-street rip-offs have been touted as the democratisation of fashion, a people-empowering sartorial revolution; but it's been a false dawn. We no longer give a fig about workmanship and quality; we just want more, more, more. We are like the spoilt child who cares only how many presents he gets at his party, not what they are or who they're from.
Too much choice doesn't enrich us; it impoverishes us. The delight of a really special party frock, of a pair of shoes kept only “for best”, of the special outfit that you've saved up to buy and the intense satisfaction when you finally step out in it - all are swept aside by the tide of cheap tat. Why take time to plan and care for your wardrobe when you can just go out and get a whole new one. It's a distinctly hollow existence.
During the last recession, I was working as a translator for a mid-market clothes retailer. The company boss, a wily old gentleman, said something that has always stuck in my mind. “When times are hard, people buy less but they buy quality. They may only be able to afford one new pair of shoes - but they care about them more than all the many pairs they bought when they had money to burn; and they enjoy wearing them more too. Quality, not quantity, my dear, that's what it's all about.”
Shortly afterwards he demonstrated this fact by laying me off. But you get my drift.
Make your clothes last longer
Always hang things up after use
Buy two pairs of trousers with a suit, and alternate wearing them
Roll ties up, don’t hang them
Wash your tights inside a pillowcase
Never wear the same shoes two days running
Cut your toenails so that they don’t snag your socks
Wash clothes on a low temperature — 30 degrees is perfectly fine for most things
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Adding to the 'make your clothes last longer list'
Also wash all delicates inside a pillow case (tightly tie the end to leave the delicates no room to stretch during a spin) or they snag terribly in the wash.
R. Ince, Istanbul, Turkey
The majority of 'cheap' clothes are a false economy and often require far more time and effort to maintain.
John, Peterborough,
I fully agree with this article. People are not rushing to H&M and Topshop (for example) to buy "essentials." And the article does not appear to reference charity shops as one of the comments addresses--that is something entirely different. It's the idea that people consume because they can. Like, "it's my lunch break, so I'll run out to H&M and buy a cute cheap sweater b/c it's $10." When I was younger, I would go outlet shopping and wind up with tons of stuff b/c it was on sale or inexpensive. I didn't need it and didn't particularly like it. It was just a DKNY shirt that cost $10. After that happened more than once, I mostly stopped outlet shopping and impulse buys. Now, I find what I want and "track" it until it goes on sale. I end up with exactly what I want, at a reasonable price (EVERYTHING goes on sale) and my items last me 10 or so years. Like the person who saves for a high quality item, the game of getting a desired item on sale is equally rewarding.
Amanda, Boston ,
"If you drink nothing but port, you end up with gout"
Old wives tale and, like much of the article, badly researched.
zb, Guildford, Surrey
Well Sarah that would be nice, if we could all just start paying a bit more for our clothes then everything would be alright.
I don't know how much you earn but I guess that it's considerably more than the £5.52 per hour minimum wage.
Many people from the shredded remains of what were the working classes can't even get the minimum wage because even in London many migrants will and do work for less than the minimum wage.
People would like to buy nice clothes but in some areas you often see people going into charity shops and it's not to be fashionable, its poverty pure and simple!
What world are you living in because it's not the same one many people have to live in. For many families it's a struggle just to get through the week.
Graham , St. Albans, uk
*bow*...i wouldn't have thought a Britisher could shame me about my consumerism. But you just did. And it turns out, am not that ashamed anyway because I agree with you. I have been trying to get out of the clutches of being 'materialistic', such articles might just give that extra nudge i need. Thanks.
Pallavi, Delhi, India
This is just an indicator of things to come. Outsourcing has taken place in many aspects of our daily lives, from food and clothing production to call centres. This is based on the reality that in some countries, wages (the main component of overheads) are vastly smaller than wages in the UK. As demand increases for these products/services, so the demands of the workers increase, so the price goes up, so that eventually it will become cheaper to produce them here, where we don't have massive transport and infrastructure costs. This doesn't affect me much with the use of clothes, as being a man I only buy something new when the old one falls apart. Eventually I will be back in fashion.
David Leslie, Perth, Scotland
chris from sydney....mate, you are just misleading people. In China maybe quality is low ( i dont know, cos i havent been there ) ..but shops in australia are filled with ..top..quality chinese goods at cheap prices. The quality of many chinese goods in australia is ..better than any western country's products (and will only increase).....Rachel of Singapore...thanks for pointing out the fact about Bangalore..Author, did you know that farmland (far from city) in Bangalore can cost A$300,000 per acre ? Around australian cities you can purchase 50 acres for that price!
Dev, Perth, Australia
Excuse me. I darn my socks, wear clothes 'til they fall apart and then polish the car with them (after saving the buttons). But I do endorse those who buy 2 pairs of trousers for every suit; it leaves plenty of cheap jackets over to mix n'match with supermarket jeans.
These clothing practices allow surplus purchasing power to acquire impressive power drills and hammer things each Thursday on offer with the Aldi specials.
Clearly the author does not understand blokes, who have always understood need for quality.
steven fieldfare, cirencester, uk
Bravo, well said. I wish there were more mothers like you in the world. Thank you for this.
Stephanie, Oxford,
Quite right. Cheap clothes take away spice of life & joy of wearing the quality garments. Unfortunately, few people share this perspective. Ad industry pushes people to buy more without thinking if they really need so many frocks or boots. The delight of wearing quality garments should return.
Pam, St.Petersburg,
After many years of living in China i realise just how poor quality and cheap most of their products are. You can't entirely blame the Chinese though, it is the fault of westerners demanding cheap rubbish but equally the Chinese are more than happy to oblige.
These days I try to buy locally made, good quality goods. It is sad that the days of being able to hand down coats to your grandchildren are long gone. I still have a cromby overcoat that my dad wore for 10 years before giving to me. It is still in perfect condition 20 years on.
Chris , Sydney, Australia
"I would like her to appreciate her possessions, and not just because of the usual middle-class guilt about child labour in Bangalore"
I think you have confused Bangalore with Bangladesh. The former is a glitzy, high-tech state in India, the latter is a very poor country which exports garments.
Rachel, Singapore,
I can (and do) darn things. I felt a bit smug about that until I read this article and realised I am very sloooow. Sarah, if you can darn a hole in a minute and a half, can you give me lessons?
Oonagh Toner, Hong Kong,
I shall keep that utterly innane rant about clothes in mind. This could really change the world. Go team!
phil, Arequipa, Peru, Peru
Must say I've had good results from buying made-to-measure garments in Bangkok. Well, I did have some free time. After a certain age you work out a look. Mine is black shoes and trousers held up with braces (suspenders). The button type; clips either come loose or tear the fabric. Trousers can be put through the washing machine, and in the trouser press while still damp. One-colour plain shirts are ultra big at the waist with collar one size too big. Face it, how often you do wear a tie other than with a white shirt? The sleeve length is right. Clothes last a long time when they are not borderline too small. Of course you do have sew on buttons occasionally.
Andrew Milner, Yokohama, Japan