Michael Kors
Unless you happen to get mowed down by one of the heavies there for the
celeb-fest, attending a Kors show can be an uplifting experience. It doesn't
matter that he mostly provides for socialites, or that a full-length, swishy
gingham skirt is not very practical on the 74 bus home - because such is the
seductive sway of his Americana that even the US audience appeared proud to
be American: no mean feat in this political climate.
His upbeat feast of polka dot, Jackie O swing jackets and shantung silk jacket
and shorts combos had editors foot-tapping along to the Beach Boys' Good
Vibrations.
His collection was a paen to American classics, comprising itsy-bitsy
halterneck tops, nautical stripes, prom skirts and the smart sportswear that
American designers excel at. At times, the casualwear in blue, black and
white block shades looked inconsistent, although commendably (and
importantly for its uptown clientele) the blocks were amazing
waist-whittlers.
The clothes could also feel saccharine or, to a cynical Brit, highly
commercially minded. Then again, we Brits are endlessly fascinated by the
go-getting attitude in a land where people never stop smiling.
Anna Sui
It can't be easy reinventing the Seventies every six months but Anna Sui, the
queen of mish-mash, successfully updated her tried and tested formula with
Spanish matador costumes.
Never mind that boho died a long time ago (four years is a long time on Planet
Fashion) because that's not why you buy Sui's clothes. Her shows are always
packed to the rafters.
For a woman often dubbed the designer's designer, it's no surprise that her
front row pulls in Sofia Coppola and Vincent Gallo. A stranger to
minimalism, beige and all the other things that set New York apart from
other fashion capitals, Sui uses embroidery, embellishment and knick-knack
jewellery to create her particular strain of modern folklore.
Save for the monochromatic and rather madcap Iberian costumes at the end, this
collection was fizzing with colour, from the intricately embroidered peasant
tops to the spriggy-print floral dresses. It's a bit much worn all together,
but dissect each outfit and you've got a top that will add zing to an
outfit, or a go-anywhere summer dress. Another plus is the investment
appeal: because her clothes will never date.
Phillip Lim
If Anna Sui was inspired by bullfighters, Lim took his Andalusian inspiration
and turned it into ruffle overload. Ruffles appeared on everything,
fluttering from jackets, chiffon trenchcoats, knit dresses and even on the
Christian Louboutin heels. This being Lim, known for a predominantly minimal
aesthetic, it wasn't exactly a flamenco extravaganaza. But still, this
hard/soft combination wasn't consistent. Disappointingly, his palette was
largely confined to sombre, neutral tones with a splash of duck egg or
mustard. Personal favourites were the dresses in a pale grey, pink or black
with zips that curved around the edge in swirly patterns. The sequin tops
and waistcoats in a matte grey were also rather elegant.
Ultimately Lim's appeal lies in his trend-led clothing, which is not so
obviously designer that the clothes feel intimidating. The Lim aesthetic
also manages to straddle an uptown, pulled-together way of dressing where
weekly blow-drys and manicures are the norm yet somehow manages to retain
its downtown edge. It also helps that his dresses cost around £300. Now all
he needs to do is find that confident designer signature.
Trends
Dresses (again). No-brainer dressing for long, hot US summers. Retailers love
them
Below the knee. If they're doing it here, retailers must have indicated that
they are ready for them. But will bronzed socialites be willing to cover up
their best assets? Stay tuned for updates
Jumpsuits: the other thrilling news. Ignore those in gold satin, because some
of the others, such as the one by Derek Lam, above, look surprisingly cool
Ruffles: across hems, butts, breasts
Combat-cum-cute: take some silky pants with some saggy crotch thing going on
and add a gorgeous, expensive-looking beaded top, et voilà. Better than it
sounds
Colour: black is no longer the navy blue of Manhattan. Um, navy is, plus
orange, saffron, lime, chartreuse, magenta
Craftwork: the latest vibe for sandals, bags and jewellery. Think of raffia
flowers, macramé and embroidery
Yet more celebrity fashion labels: Sheryl Crow, David Arquette and sundry
models such as Erin Wasson release their inner creativity (or not)
LISA ARMSTRONG
Tight times for US buyers
Despite the severe slowdown in consumer spending, sales at London's department
stores are up. At Harrod's there has been an increase of 10 per cent and
Selfridges has also reported above-average trading. London's West End has
been protected from the worst of the retail slowdown by the influx of
Russians and other wealthy tourists who spend an estimated £6 billion in
London's stores each year.
Stateside, it's another story. Bergdorf Goodman has reported a 2.8 per cent
drop in sales, while Saks Fifth Avenue is also down by 5.9 per cent. Last
Saturday, the boutiques were eerily quiet. A spring/summer sale rail at
Bergdorf Goodman was another worrying indicator. At Barneys, accessories
stalls - usually the most affordable part of designer collections - were in
prominent position.
Weak sales and fierce competition have made global expansion a priority for
department stores. The 47-store chain, Lord & Taylor, is considering
Asia, Mexico and Canada. Barneys may be considering the Middle East.
So how does this affect US buyers? Ken Downing, the fashion director of Neiman
Marcus, says: “It's no secret that we are having a very challenging time and
you need to have a different approach to how you buy. Women are continuing
to buy, although not as robustly so whatever you choose really needs to
stand out. We'll be looking for pieces with the ‘wow' factor when we visit
Paris and Milan.”
The impact of the weak dollar is also having a pronounced effect with buyers
having to be more careful. David Rubenstein, the vice-president and general
manager of Jeffrey, the hip New York store, told WWD: “We have been open to
higher prices for really special items but now we're much more sensitive.”
Julie Gilhart, the buying director at Barneys, agrees: “The bigger,
established brands are going to have a tougher time unless they do things
that they haven't done before. We need fresh approaches that are innovative
and fun. This spirit will drive business.”
