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Nothing focuses the fashion part of the cortex so much as a stringent budget. If Marie Antoinette had only applied Mr Micawber's law of economics to her wardrobe expenditure (“annual income twenty pounds, annual expenditure £19/19/6d, result happiness. Annual income twenty pounds, annual expenditure £20/0/6d, result misery”) her corpse might look very different. Alas for her, God hadn't come up with Charles Dickens in time for the 1793 debacle, and Dickens certainly hadn't come up with Mr Micawber.
However, we do have Mr Micawber for reference. And, as of September 2008, we have the perfect financial climate in which to follow his example. Fortuitous or what?
But happiness lies not merely in setting a budget, or even - this is the slightly trickier bit - in sticking to it, but in analysing those worldly pleasures that are truly important to our personal sense of wellbeing, and those pleasures which we thought vital but which, on profound self-examination, turn out to be pains in the neck.
Compiling a list of all the luxuries (yes, that includes the gym, your lovefilm.com membership, your Louis Vuitton/Primark habit...anything above and beyond food, shelter and heating, really) that freight our lives is quite an eye-opener. But when it comes to fashion luxuries, one has to be particularly steely and clear-headed, because on one level it's all frippery. And on another, some of it's immensely uplifting.
Those on the spiritual highlands would argue that we don't need anything apart from a begging bowl (or just your hands if you're hardcore). But from where I stand, several thousand feet lower down, I'll happily sacrifice any more little black dresses - I've got plenty and they don't go out of style - but please don't ask me to give up the Mayfair hairdresser.
Belle Robinson, proprietor of The Shop at Bluebird and creative consultant
to Jigsaw
What do you refuse to give up during the recession? Great underwear,
hot baths, cashmere track pants from M&S, Anya Hindmarch handbags,
Jigsaw knitwear and shepherd's pie.
What will you sacrifice? Eating out, expensive beauty products,
expensive chocolates (Maltesers any day), party frocks as I so rarely wear
them, and heating - pop on another jumper!
Franca Sozzani, editor-in-chief of Italian Vogue
What do you refuse to give up? You shouldn't give up your quality of
life or your dreams. I wouldn't give up my beautiful books.
What will you sacrifice? Unnecessary accessories or clothes that aren't
going to change who I am.
Rupert Sanderson, shoe designer
What do you refuse to give up? Going out, because I'm such a party
animal. Also, seeking out the best leathers and suppliers
What will you sacrifice? Pudding! And my bloody car, which gives me
more parking tickets and speeding fines than actual journeys.
Tamara Mellon, founder and president of Jimmy Choo
What do you refuse to give up? Shoes and bags, because great
accessories are such a good way of instantly updating your wardrobe.
What will you sacrifice? I won't be buying items of clothing that are
one-hit wonders and that aren't versatile.
Joan Burstein, owner of Browns
What do you refuse to give up? My help at home as I would not be able
to spend so much time at Browns.
What will you sacrifice? I will give up my weekly manicure,
aromatherapy massage and reflexology.
Averyl Oates, buying director at Harvey Nichols
What do you refuse to give up? Great wardrobe pieces that I will
pre-order from Balmain and Rodarte, Shu Uemura eyelash extensions and Real
Hair products, especially their conditoning masks.
What will you sacrifice? Gym membership but I'll invest in MBTs for
winter and FitFlops for summer. I will also give up blow-drys and buy fewer
catwalk pieces and instead modernise outfits with shoes from Camilla
Skovgaard and key jewellery statements pieces from Lara Bohinc and Kara
Ross.
Ruth Chapman, managing director of Matches
What do you refuse to give up? Keeping fit and yoga as they're
essential for staying mentally strong and keeping those serotonin levels up.
What will you sacrifice? I will be cutting down on our sneaky extra
days of holiday that we've historically tagged on to the odd business trip
as this seems frivolous!
Newby Hands, beauty director of Harpers Bazaar
What do you refuse to give up? I won't give up my Power Plate workouts
because I'm lazy but this is fast, effective and it's the best thing I've
found for cellulite. Neither could I give up Zara - a quick nip in there to
check out the new stock always lifts my mood. I won't give up a good-quality
face cream because after 18 years as a beauty editor, I really believe this
is the one area where you pretty much get the technology that you pay for.
What will you sacrifice? My blow-drys, because I've persevered long
enough to be able to do my own. My tip: buy a flat paddle-brush, it makes a
DIY blow-dry easy. Or slick it back into a tight bun - it's an old Kate Moss
trick. I will give up facials as virtually everything that gets put on your
face you probably have a version of at home - it's just a case of spending a
bit longer on the massage. I've given up on the It-bags - too big, too
over-priced and too many women had exactly the same one.
Carolina Herrera, fashion designer
What do you refuse to give up? I wouldn't give up my two dogs which are
a great personal indulgence.
What will you sacrifice? Eating chocolate every day, especially because
I never eat just one square.
Jane Bruton, editor of Grazia magazine
What do you refuse to give up? My fortnightly pedicure. It delivers a
micro-pleasure that keeps me feeling good and buzzy. Plus, you wouldn't want
to see the state of my feet without it, as I'm training for the London
Marathon.
What will you sacrifice? I am prepared to give up my annual beach
holiday - my sons, Arthur, 7, and Jonah, 4, much prefer our camping trips to
Norfolk anyway. I am, however, investing in self-inflating blow-up
mattresses and Daniel Hersheson's “permanent blow-dry”.
Claire Wilcox, acting head of contemporary projects at the V&A museum
What do you refuse to give up? Wearing my red suede Yohji Yamamoto
shoes. Beautiful objects are important for our souls and, while appearances
aren't everything, having the odd pair of new red shoes will make life more
tolerable in a recession.
What will you sacrifice? My organic muesli. I won't be buying any more
food that's been flown halfway round the world - except for coffee - and
I'll start making my own rather than buying takeaways.
Kelly Hoppen, interior designer
What do you refuse to give up? Beauty treatments such as facials,
nails, etc, as I simply have to have them. And I will not give up making the
home perfect as we will be spending more time there, eating and
entertaining.
What will you sacrifice? Expensive holidays - and I will be more
selective when clothes shopping and buy only what I need.
Anya Hindmarch, managing director of Anya Hindmarch
What do you refuse to give up? I want always to feel good about myself.
For me, the investment in training (Matt Roberts is life-saving) and a good
wardrobe make me feel as if I can take on the world and beat the credit
crunch. If feeling good results in one productive new idea, then it was
worth it.
What will you sacrifice? It would be a relief to go out less, so
perhaps that is what I should change.
Harriet Quick, fashion features editor at Vogue
What do you refuse to give up? Expensive thank-you note paper because
manners never go out of fashion and people really appreciate the gesture.
What have you sacrificed? The boutique hotel European mini-breaks
because they always end up being more expensive than you think.
Sara Berman, managing director of Sara Berman
What do you refuse to give up? My regular facials with Dr Frances Jones
or my haircuts with Luke Hersheson because I believe in looking after myself
now for long-term gain.
What will you sacrifice? I will willingly give up £800 handbags because
I feel the era of the It-bag is over.
Jane Shepherdson, CEO of Whistles
What do you refuse to give up? I couldn't give up travel, but I'd
happily go by train or boat if I had the time, nor could I give up buying
new clothes.
What will you sacrifice? I could give up eating out at expensive
restaurants; as long as I am out with friends, I'm happy at the local pub. I
could walk or cycle instead of getting taxis, and I would survive easily
without an expensive skincare routine.
Bruno Frissoni, creative director at Roger Vivier
What do you refuse to give up? Travel, because even when you have no
money you can do it cheaply.
What will you sacrifice? One or some of my cars.
Marie Chantal, Marie Chantal childrenswear
What do you refuse to give up? Fabulous shoes, which are an investment
in the long run anyway.
What will you sacrifice? Fast fashion that does not have a great
shelf-life.
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