Few trends scream 'slave to fashion' quite so loudly as folk. The peasant blouse/ruffle skirt combo that looks fine sipping a mojito in hot, sunny climes doesn¹t usually cut it on the No 49 bus; nor does load-it-on, jingle jangle fringing look nearly as appealing in a November downpour.

So it's tempting to ignore Planet Fashion's 89th fling with boho and return to the usual diet of grey, navy and black. Thankfully, though, fashion is nothing if not endless reinvention. The good news for those itching to dig out their ethnic embroidered shirts and skinny Lurex scarves is that there is a way to wear boho without succumbing to Sienna-esque bedhead glory.

As ever, the key is restraint. Folk for winter 2008 is sleeker, for a start.

It's also subtler, more streamlined and certainly not designed to be worn head to toe. Indeed, adapting details of the folk tradition (gold appliqué, a hint of velvet, paisley trims) is one way of adding a little interest to the aforementioned winter style tricolour.

As the pictures above show, it is more sophisticated - as well as modern - to team one whimsical piece with sharp tailoring in blocks of neutral: this black blazer adds a touch of seriousness to Bally's paisley chiffon skirt, taking it from holiday garb straight into the city. Ditto snappy tailored trousers, teamed here with a Russian, embroidered shirt and cummerbund belt. For once, the detailed flourishes (gold threads and intricate embroidery) add a luxurious gloss, prettifying the outfit, rather than recalling touristy, market tat.

Another way to tone down the Wild-West-meets-Tyrolean-milkmaid references is to add metallic hardware: the oversized gold studs on Gucci's ankle boots inject a punky vibe, as do the chain links of Meli Melo's Bon Bon bag. This hard/soft approach is the quickest way to toughen up your outfit.

Finally, a word about hair. Long, hippy tresses are great if they are kept in excellent condition; otherwise, scrape it all back into an elegant chignon. Whack on the moody eye make-up and you have all the gloss of Gucci's catwalk girls.

Styling: Eve Thomas, hair and make-up: Zoe Taylor at Patrick Ludde Salon using Sisley, model: Marina at Premier

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