Lisa Armstrong
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Just when it looked as though the world had become indifferent to the moral issues surrounding fur, two Hollywood hitters have apologised for wearing it. Gwyneth Paltrow said sorry to Peta for modelling a fox stole in Tod’s winter campaign. “I assumed it was fake fur, but did not ask, so it’s my fault. I know it’s not a great excuse but I hope you and your members understand.” Kate Winslet, who sprawled naked on a fur rug for Vanity Fair, said she, too, assumed it was fake.
Then there’s the palaver surrounding Elizabeth Hurley’s appearance in the latest What Becomes a Legend Most? campaign for fur company Blackglama, although, so far, Hurley has been noticeably unrepentant, on the grounds, perhaps, that the slack would be taken up by vegans and animal rights activists.
Fur undeniably casts a glow on the skin. But, honestly, times are a–changing. Firstly, ostentation is beating a retreat. Secondly, given that most celebrities have a God-given gift for telling to the nearest digit the thread count of the sheets in their Winnebagos, “faux” has clearly improved radically from the days when it bore as much resemblance to the real thing as John Prescott does to George Clooney.
Thirdly, fashion is moving on, although not all the major houses have noticed. Prada has – it no longer uses fur. So has Moncler, a Swiss brand that is doing amazingly luxurious things with down jackets, turning them into glossy trophies that combine urban chic with unbeatable warmth. Fay, part of the Tod’s empire, has hired Giles Deacon, the British designer, to revamp what is basically a casual (in the Italian sense) outwear label; the result is a series of sculpted jackets featuring huge, puffy rosettes on the shoulders and waists. This is the quilted nylon jacket as a new genre of clothing altogether – casual, sporty eveningwear.
But, for some time, a slew of mid-level names such as Theory, the hip New York, Gap-meets-Helmut-Lang label, and Miu Miu has been selling fabulously flattering quilted coats and jackets to cool New Yorkers, who know that in their depths of winter, a lightweight, waterproof nylon that incorporates Nasa technology can’t be beaten for style and practicality. If you’re looking for this on a budget, try Uniqlo, the born-again Japanese chain that does brilliant down jackets, from £30, in colours that have all the subtlety of a bag of Starburst, but look terrific on the right complexion.
If you can’t live without that fluffy glow, try a “marabou” jacket. There are lots on the high street, from Oasis and Topshop (right) to Reiss. They’re just the right side of kitsch glamour. With jeans, they’re a bit rock’n’roll; with satin, a bit old Hollywood, and they’re made from ostrich, chicken or turkey feathers. Make that rock chick.
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