God bless American retail and its genius for coming up with zappy aphorisms —
even when they do nothing to boost the balance of payments.
“Shopping your closet” won’t get people flocking to those great white
elephants (formerly known as department stores) that once grazed on the rich
pickings of Fifth Avenue’s affluent shoppers, because the whole idea is that
instead of being tempted farther into debt, we do something novel, such as
going through all the clothes we already own — yup, every single item — and
then we think about what we could do to make them look fresh and new.
Sometimes the changes are radical and involve a dressmaker; others are
infinitesimally small to the non-fashionista eye. But being of the moment is
all about details. If it sounds like positive, affirmative action (in ways
that shopping your wardrobe doesn’t) that’s because it is.
Obviously shopping our closets is something that we should have done all
along, instead of popping along to Primark. Back in pre-recession world, we
thought that shopping was less effort than struggling to open and then, even
bigger struggle, close the doors on our overstuffed wardrobes, sorry
closets. But tomorrow is another day. In fact, today is too. Weed, uproot,
prune, replant (in a closet far from your own). Then go shopping with a
small but perfectly formed list (see checklist) and a clear conscience.
Stage one: what to ditch
Winkle pickers. You might be a classic dresser but these set your look in
aspic
Bootcuts. If you don’t look your best in drainpipes or straight trousers, miss
out the bootcut and go straight to a flare or a peg-leg
Massive bags. They’re ridiculous. If yours was a designer one, sell it while
there’s still a market for them
Long skirts. Any length that’s lower than just below the knee, apart from the
maxi. It looks great on the catwalk but unless you’re very willowy, in real
life it looks frumpy
Floaty dresses and skirts. Save wafty chiffon for tops, anchored with a
tailored or biker jackets.
Fascinators. Even if weddings loom, try a wide, satin, jewelled hairband
instead. Or let your hair go naked
Stage two: what to hold on to
Kitten heels. Any moment now they’ll stage a comeback. Just don’t wear them
for the moment
Classic florals. Right now a tiny sprig print or a digital floral pattern
looks more modern
Last year’s sunglasses. Anything goes at the moment, from classic Ray-Bans to
the Jackie O bug-eyed look, although teeny-tiny John Lennon shades have yet
to be revived
Kaftans. In theory there should be something to replace this old favourite on
the beach. But nothing better has come along so far. So dust them down and
wear them with pride
Ethnic. Amazing how many ways this can be reworked. This year wear it with
pinstripe jackets, leather or stripes
Stage three: what to revamp
1 Update your classic shirtdress with some leggings (our favourites are
from Urban Outfitters, £28; urbanoutfitters.co.uk.
It doesn’t matter how old you are — honestly — this is a chic look that is
becoming classic, but modern. Dark colours bring a harder edge that looks
right at the moment, but they don’t have to be black. Navy or grey are good
alternatives to have on standby; leggings are the ideal leg-wear for a
British spring. If you’re wedded to flat ballet pumps, leggings will update
them.
2 Update your tea dress. Tea dresses never die; just ask Kate Moss. But
they do get restyled. Come winter, you’ll be wearing it with biker boots
(chunky socks peeking over the top) and a shaggy sheepskin gilet. Perhaps.
In the meantime, the effect you should be striving for is the opposite of
twee or sedate. Twist a stripy scarf round the neck (Kew's come ready
crumpled in for that rumpled, expensively pre-creased Prada vibe — £26, kew-online.com,
and works well with the Warehouse dress, £45; warehouse.co.uk.)
Add some utilitarian brown leather sandals (nothing too pretty) and keep a
long cardigan to hand — no ballet wraps!
3 Update up your smock dresses. These require a bit more drastic
action, smock dresses being more passé than a George Dubya-themed hoe-down.
Cut them at thigh or hip level so that they become smock tops or tunics,
belt them using a clashing scarf and layer over silky harem pants for the
2009 take on boho — as seen at Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti (pictured
top).
4 Update your trenchcoat: provided it’s a good cut and the right colour
for your skin, this is a keeper. However this spring a little tweaking will
work small miracles. Consider changing the buttons for shiny black ones like
those on Banana Republic's trench (£140, 020-7758 3550). Take the hem up if
it’s below your knees — it will instantly look more youthful — and push the
sleeves up towards your elbows.
5 Update old calf-length skirts. There is nothing for it but to take
these up to the knee — or as high as your legs can take. Anything else looks
old-fashioned. The Times fashion department has been shocked to its
core to discover that skirts it was contentedly wearing two years ago are
now as dated as the farthingale. If you are so disaffected with your legs
that even the sight of your shins offends, go maxi.
6 Update your skinny jeans: in theory we’re all meant to be in harem
pants, carrot-top trousers and pyjamas. Dream on. Harems, carrot tops and
pyjamas have their plusses but the drainpipe is just too simple an option to
give up. But shorten it so that it grazes above your ankle and wear it with
heels and a tuxedo-style jacket or a long, drapy cardigan to give it a
different feel from last summer’s “drainpipe and smock top” formula.
7 Update your favourite nautical pieces with some fabulous jewellery.
Ideally we’d all have some rubies or emeralds that we could dig out to
elevate our old M&S stripes, in the great tradition of mixing high and
low. Failing that, we can all scour the vintage stalls for gems like this
Eclectica vintage brooch (£30, John Lewis). This is about creating a look
that has elements of the unexpected so effortlessly thrown together (or at
least giving that impression) that it would work as well at a summer evening
party as in the office. You could even mix in a sequinned waistcoat or
scarf. It’s not about replicating the sailor look you cobbled together for
the beach.
8 Update your T-shirts with lashings of baroque necklaces, à la Coco
Chanel. Get the jewellery right and you could wear the simplest clothes to
just about any occasion. Choose jewellery that is big, eclectic and brazenly
fake. Or layer bold brights to create your own colour blocking. If you’ve
got the legs, wear your tees with a thigh-length jacket, worn like a tuxedo
dress.
9 Update last year’s gladiator . . . by doing absolutely nothing.
Provided you’ve looked after them, they should survive to see another
summer. Save the money that you would have spent on a new pair on having
regular pedicures.
10 Update old jumpers by giving them an overhaul. Debobble with a
proper implement (you can get them from Lakeland or Brora), take them to a
good dry-cleaners and get it to put some contrasting leather elbow patches
on (even if the elbows aren’t worn through). If you’re a trusting type who
believes in the longevity of trends (and this one has been around a long
time), get the sleeves shortened to above the wrist. Invest in some
statement cuffs and, if you’re feeling particularly adventurous, stitch on
some small shoulder pads. Inside, obviously.
Stage four: what to buy
If you still can't resist hitting the shops, any or all of the following will
lift your wardrobe for several seasons to come:
A fitted, hip-length sleeveless waistcoat
A sequined jacket
A patterned cardigan — wrap a skinny belt round it
A medium-sized slouchy bag that you can wear across the body
A one-shouldered top
Fringing — a little goes a very long way. It may even go too far, but we can’t
help being suckers for a fringed sandal. Well hello, Pocahontas
