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I am not often seized by the goddess of mysticism – I tend to avoid predicting future trends for the unglamorous reason that I’m hopeless at it. I can do six months ahead, but only because I’ve spent four weeks having them regurgitated over me at the shows. But here’s my hunch about the next few years (treasure it, there won’t be many more where this came from): less will be more. Flexibility will be all; clothes that work round the clock, all year, will be prized in the way that diamond-studded alligator bags the size of a Cath Kidston tent were once deemed (yes, truly) objects of desire. Lightness, ease, multi-tasking – these will be the hallmarks of luxury.
The Brits, I’m gratified to say, are leading the way. Admittedly, Osman Yousefzada’s “recession” pleated drape dress (www.brownsfashion.com) might not seem a bargain (at £495 we can see recessions are relative), but if it looks just as good back to front as it does the other way round (which it does), offering two different options (which it does), thereby freeing up space in your wardrobe/suitcase for things other than dresses (ditto), then you have to concede that’s an ingenious idea that might eventually filter down to the high street.
Similarly, St Roland of Mouret has his tunic/T-shirt/dress (TTD) concept – a deceptively simple idea that depends on perfect cutting and fabric so that the TTD can be tucked into waistbands without bulkiness. Mouret has also developed something he calls a carré (square in French) worn as a drapey top or a drapey skirt (at Harvey Nichols this autumn). I’ve tried it and it’s terrific. Again, prices not exactly in the basement, but if we’re being this practical, we can splurge a bit.
Climate dysmorphia is at the root of British inventiveness. On the one hand, a conviction that summer begins in June sentences us to shivering through endless “summer” parties, barbecues and weddings. On the other, it has made us world-class layerers and flingers-on. Result? Major adaptability.
Truth to tell, not all the invention is British. Denis Colomb is French. I’ve mentioned him before, but his ultra-luxurious (and plain and adaptable) knits can also be worn in numerous ways, draped, belted, winter, summer. They cost a packet (Liberty, Dover Street Market), but they’re for life. And this is one idea that’s already translating onto the high street – the styles, that is, if not the fabric.
So what is our lesson for today? Think outside the usual parameters, buy less but better and invest in trans-seasonal pieces. They’re the ones hitting the stores now. Designers call them pre-collection, which makes them sound like a taster. But really they’re the meat and potatoes, accounting for more than 70 per cent of their turnovers. Pre-collections are where you find a distillation of the best catwalk ideas in a wearable format. And because of their timing, they’re conceived to be worn year round. Now that’s versatility.
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