Why is fashion revisiting a silhouette that was last fashionable on the cusp of the French Revolution? Because it can — with techniques and materials not available at Versailles.

That pannier effect cropped up again at Luella, and so did a slew of other retro (mostly 50s) couture silhouettes — from the curved hems of her snug jackets to the waterfall of tulle frills on her prom dresses.

If that all sounds rather grown-up and serious, it wasn’t. It turns out that Luella Bartley has a real flair for quirky colour combinations (cherry red nubbly wool jacket, camel and brown polka-dot skirts, sky blue pointy court shoes) that kept this collection firmly grounded in the territory that is Bartley’s rightful home — the bit where Princess Margaret (the early years) bumps into Pixie Lott and they trade style tips.

For a collection that was inspired by the designer’s back catalogue of Joy Division tracks, it was remarkably cheery. And there are any number of young girls who would sell their mothers — literally, judging by the number of semi-professional tween fashion bloggers who are being hotly pursued by fashion houses, desperate to appear up-to-speed — for Luella’s sweetly skewed take on British heritage clothing. Whether their allowances stretch to one of her gorgeous primrose flared coats with Peter Pan collars is of course another question.

What Bartley really needs now is a retail guru who can turn her vision into a roll-out enterprise with prices that are accessible to the girls who know best how to wear it.

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