LA: Welcome back to fashion [Sander left her own label in 2004, after an
acrimonious split with the Prada Group, which had bought the rights to her
name]. Why did you choose to do a high street collaboration for your return?
JS: I have always been fascinated by the original concept of high street
fashion; by the idea of offering attractive, clean-cut clothes to everyone.
When I started my own company, I dreamt of seducing women with a style of
grown-up beauty; smart, unfrivolous cutting; comfortable quality, and a
dynamic look. I am still on that mission, and I feel that there is a strong
desire on the new worldwide market for clothes of my liking. If you want to
make a real difference in the future of fashion, it makes a lot of sense, to
engage in a company that has the power to reach people on a global scale.
LA: Is it possible to bring your rigorous cutting to a budget line? The
fabrics you used were always so luxurious and hi-tech.
JS: There is no great difference between design in exclusive and in larger
numbers, if you keep a close eye on the production. What counts most is the
work you invest into the prototype. I have been very meticulous about
details. Some pieces of the +J collection have been fitted five times, to
ensure a flawless, sculptured silhouette and unconditional ease for the
wearer. As to the material, I was involved in the textile development right
from the beginning. It is very important to get exactly the right products,
if you want your design ideas to materialise. It was a joy to co-operate
with Uniqlo, since the Japanese are highly experienced in textile
innovation. We were able to look for the best possible fabric on a global
scale and tried hard not to compromise our search for the lightest, most
sophisticted material. As you will see, the +J collection includes some very
nice hi-tech features, especially for outerwear.
LA: What do you think is missing from the high street?
JS: A while ago, it seemed as if fashion had broken free from fantasies of
the past. This goes especially for women, who have not always been as
liberated as they are today, and who lived out their dreams in the way they
dressed. Nevertheless, masquerade is back. There is so much confusing choice
on the high street; styles change quickly, and all the emphasis is on the
newest trend, whatever it may be. It is very hard for younger generations to
educate themselves on fashion and to get an idea of the progress that has
been made. There are not many basics left that serve their original purpose
as the basis for an individual look. So much is outrageous, eccentric, over
the top.
LA: A lot has changed in fashion since you were at your own house. It
sometimes seems as though minimalism and feminism never happened. There is
so much emphasis on looking flashy and sexually predatory at all times —
what do you think, for example, of the current trend for skintight leather
leggings, huge shoulder pads and bondage shoes?
JS: Evidently, those abounding references to the red-light district are not
in my vein. Nevertheless, I was never a minimalist, if that is to imply
prudishness. There is a great erotic allure to a natural look that fits the
body, allows for unhindered movement and leaves room for the expression of
the living self. People play roles, this is part of our freedom, but we
should stay in control of our experiments. If we were more ready to evolve
personally, we wouldn’t need the smokescreen of shocking outfits.
LA: You have your own fashion consultancy now. What else are you working on?
JS: At the moment, my work for Uniqlo takes up all my time. I have been on a
very tight schedule for almost a year, commuting between Hamburg and Tokyo.
Uniqlo is like a 747, and it requires all my concentration and energy to
steer this complex machine in the desired direction.
LA: What are the essential items in your own personal wardrobe? Has your style
changed much in the past decade?
JS: My style never changed in a fundamental way. My ideal outfit is still a
white shirt, neatly tailored to the aesthetics of the moment. From the very
beginning of my career, I had a vision of purity in clothes, designed to
highlight the beauty and natural ease of the human form. This vision evolved
in time, crystalised through practice, and turned into a signature. I no
longer think about my style as something apart from me, it lies in my hands
when they select a textile, and in my eyes when they decide on a
shoulder-line or scrutinise an armhole. It is influenced and fine-tuned by
everything I see, from an art exhibit to an article I may read.
LA: What are your favourite items from the Uniqlo +J line?
JS: I couldn’t single out individual pieces. My dedication went into all of
them. You will have to decide for yourself.
LA: Would you describe the line as minimalist? How can women who aren’t used
to minimalism wear it?
JS: The notion of minimalism derives from the art world, and in that regard
it is quite flattering. But I never used it for my work, I prefer to speak
of purism. I like to reduce a piece of cloth to its essence. I am not
interested in unnecessary ornaments; to me, quality depends on the harmony
of shape and material, on a truly modern design vision, and on the
effortless beauty of the three-dimensional form. I do not think that such
fashion poses problems for any wearer. On the contrary, it will be easy to
combine +J basics with more challenging pieces of a woman’s wardrobe. They
work like a smart frame and a quiet background.Purity, in my sense, is the
basis of any convincing look.
LA: What do you think of what Raf Simons [the Belgian designer who took over
her label four years ago] is doing at Jil Sander? Can we look forward to you
ever doing your own line again?
JS: I am all for looking forward and I don’t like to brood on the past. Right
now, all my experience is going into making +J worth the effort. It is a
challenging task with a high potential, and for the time being, I will be
very happy if the curiosity of customers can be aroused, and if we can
sustain their interest in the future.
The +J range will be arriving in Uniqlo stores nationwide starting
tomorrow, October 1.
uniqlo.co.uk
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