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The label has even created its own cotton fabric brand, Illuminati II, made from raw ingredients that have been sourced in Uganda to produce a brand that is a clever interpretation of classic British tailoring (borrowing menswear detailing) and mixing it with softer, feminine details.

RICHARD NICOLL

Nicoll’s graduate collection from Central St Martins College of Art and Design in 2002 was bought by Dolce & Gabbana and led to freelance work that included designing for Louis Vuitton’s s/s 05 collection. After showing an unprecedented three times at Fashion East, Nicoll was awarded Topshop’s New Generation award for his s/s O6 collection.

For winter, he continues to explore elegant workwear with more than a nod to Victoriana, utilising patchwork corsetry and herringbone tweeds, velvet, baby cord and patent leather to create a range with a hard/soft feel evident in the boxy shape jackets and draped dresses.

MANISH ARORA

Dubbed the Indian Matthew Williamson for his riotous use of colour, the 33-year-old designer studied fashion in New Delhi before showing his first collection in September at London Fashion Week.

Last season’s clothes showed oriental influences made from a mix of vibrantly coloured and printed Indian fabrics. This time, he promises a “bit more black”, but there will also be plenty of Art Deco influences.

“I really had fun experimenting with very luxurious brocades and sequins,” he says. “I want to create clothes that you might find in your grandmother’s attic.” Look out for romantic, empire-line dresses and lots of very ornate and fine embroidery.

ALICE McCALL

Fashion design is in McCall’s blood. Her mother designed for the Beatles’ label Apple and her sister is a designer. Born in Oxford, she grew up in Melbourne, Victoria, returning to England for two years at MTV in London as a stylist. Then she worked with Natalie Imbruglia, Blondie and Destiny’s Child.

She previously designed at Buddhist Punk and Sass & Bide before launching her own brand, which is given its debut off-schedule this week.

Expect a lot of pretty detailing (fabric covered buttons) with a healthy injection of “street” style and bold, graphic prints that have a Cubist feel to them. Monochrome patterns are sharply contrasted with acid-lime, burnt orange and lipstick reds.

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