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Comment: Thea Bregazzi and Justin Thornton deserve the school award for outstanding achievement. This collection was a synthesis of all that they do best — sleek wrap coats and jackets that envelop without overwhelming the body. Tabard dresses with binding revealed discreet flashes of bare back, proving that Thea and Justin have a mature understanding of sensuality. Their delicate use of greys and camels with the occasional flash of crimson drew a special commendation from the art department.
Grade: A++
Form: 3B
Comment: It is encouraging that Fiona (Sinha) and Aleksandar (Stanic) have not let the disappointment of being runners-up in the 2004 Fashion Fringe competition hold them back. Their third show handled the current school preoccupation with the 1980s with sensitivity and sophistication. This was clearest in their halterneck, tulip-skirted evening dresses, which had a touch of the late Princess of Wales in her “Dynasty Di” period, updated with the duo’s signature bands of gold embroidery and mirrors. Grade: A-
Form: Kindergarten
Comment: Richard’s first show demonstrated an exceptional gift for saucy tailoring combined with elaborate, form-fitting knitwear. Basques teamed with dirndl skirts, extravagant lace and tweed skirts and shirt sleeves made some of his outfits look like what the Von Trapp family might have worn had they resorted to a bondage routine. However, it is to be expected that first collections sometimes have too many ideas, and it’s nice to see that he enjoyed the form trip to Austria.
Grade: B++
Form: 3B
Comment: Karen is a lovely girl with plenty of Kiwi spirit and a love of oversize workwear (baggy shorts and braces, sloppy jumpers) and faux prim details (big pussycat bows, platforms worn with socks) that could lead her into fashion-victim detention. She is definitely on to something with her socks-worn-with-tights equation, unfortunately. But sombre colours and a lack of application didn’t do her justice.
Grade: B
Form: 1B
Comment: Gareth is inventive with a mischievous sense of humour, as proved by the poodle-hair topiary and chalky kabuki make-up that he gave to his models. His exploration of this year’s school project — volume — was most original if somewhat literal. Black inflatable PVC cocoon jackets, some with blow-up lapels, others with enormous cartwheel ruffs encircling the shoulders and upper arms, showed a pleasing appreciation of science and history. But Gareth must focus more on clothes that will sell in the UK. Grade: B++
Form: Kindergarten
Comment: Marios has had an exceptional year. He has proved so talented that his sponsors, Fashion East, invited him back for an unprecedented third time to show alongside their two other selected labels. While it’s true that Marios has an advantage in having a father with his own clothing factory, it is still highly commendable to see such attention to fit and finish in someone so young. Buyers from the big stores seemed very keen to stock him. He is now ready for his own show.
Grade: A-
Form: Reception Class
Comment: Boy George joins us from America, where he has shown previously. The collection of 1980s cotton jersey clubwear that he showed at the weekend was upbeat and colourful but hardly stretched him. The jewelled CND insignia were, it is to be hoped, an ironic play on that decade’s obsessions rather than an attempt to be searingly topical. It is nice to see him on home turf but he must stop playing to the gallery with buttock- baring gymslips if he is to make a go of this latest hobby.
Grade: B
Form: Upper 6th
Comment: Nicole is adapting well to being head girl of London Fashion Week and takes her responsibilities to provide the British woman with something pretty and fashionable very seriously. Her loose-fitting velvet and satin dresses in autumn shades of berry or chocolate earned her an A+. She also submitted some appealing flared couture-style coats, worn with elbow-length gloves, for her 1950s project. But she could risk a few more surprises if she doesn’t want to be taken for granted.
Grade: B++
Form: Lower 6th
Comment: Julien’s predilection for glamour and glitz has certainly matured over the past two terms. His skinny trouser suits and big, glossy bags would not look out of place on an exchange trip at the house of Versace, and it’s a tribute to his ingenuity that he can pull off such exuberance from his London base. However, his weakness for hanging out with undesirable Z-listers can lead him into shameless exhibitionism, and his habit of picking fights with Peta through his abundant use of fur is becoming tiresome.
Grade: B-
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