Nowhere in Britain is more than 70 miles from the sea. Yet, even in our modern world of rapid communication and transportation, it is still a task to find fresh fish any distance from the coast without giving an arm or leg in exchange.
If you are lucky enough to have a good fishmonger nearby, use it well. There is nothing better than the wild food of the deep, both nutritionally and for flavour. If you find yourself near the coast, hunt down the local purveyor of all things piscatorial, who is sure to have some choice wet fish for sale at a reasonable price. I use Davey’s Locker, in Bridport, west Dorset.
When buying a whole fish, the rule is to look it squarely in the eyes: if they are bright and clear, then it can still remember the sea. Another technique is to inspect its gills, which should be clean-looking and pinky-red in colour.
Nowadays, however, much of the fish we buy has been butchered and filleted, so it’s not possible to check for freshness in this way. If you are choosing fillets, make sure they are firm to the touch and have a good briny smell. Look at the scales, too — they should have a brilliant iridescence.
Smell and appearance are also paramount when buying shellfish, which should smell of nothing but the sea (“fishiness” is a bad sign). The shells should be bright and shiny, and, if not closed, should snap shut when you poke them. Live crabs and lobsters need to be lively, rather than languid, and should feel heavy when lifted, which means they are full of meat.
The cold seas that surround Britain provide the perfect environment for shellfish, which needs to work a little harder to survive than in more temperate conditions and, as a result, has more flavour. In the past, pollution posed a threat to our native seafood population but, thankfully, much good work has been done to improve the situation. There have also been significant developments in shellfish farming, particularly with mussels, oysters, prawns and crayfish. This means that they are now cheaper and more consistent in quality; it also means there can be a constant supply. The old rule that says not to eat shellfish except when there is an “r” in the month was introduced at a time when refrigeration was less than adequate and in order to protect the summer breeding season of our native stock.
ROAST MARINATED SHELLFISH
Serves 6-8
The inspiration for this dish came from a Chinese seafood restaurant that does a fabulous roast lobster with ginger and spring onions on soft noodles. The beauty of this recipe is that you can make it with whatever shellfish are available, adapting the quantities accordingly. I would recommend a mix of at least three of the following, including crab or lobster.
2 x 500g crabs (live if possible)
2 x 500g lobsters (live if possible)
12 langoustines, crayfish or prawns
500g mussels
500g clams (palourdes)
The marinade
5 cloves garlic
Zest from 1 lemon
1 tsp fennel seeds
2 tsp coriander seeds
4 bay leaves
2 tsp black peppercorns
1 tbsp concentrated tomato purée
5 small, ripe tomatoes, deseeded and roughly chopped
1 cup extra virgin olive oil
Juice of 2 lemons
1 cup fresh coriander, roughly chopped
In a large pestle and mortar, pound the garlic, lemon zest and spices (including the bay leaves) until they form a rough paste. Add the tomato purée and fresh tomatoes, then give it a couple more thumps. Gradually stir in the olive oil in a steady stream, as you would for mayonnaise. If it becomes too thick, thin it down with a little lemon juice. Finally, stir in the rest of the lemon juice, the chopped coriander and a little salt.
Now, part-cook the live crabs and lobsters: place, head first, in a large pot of boiling salted water, replace the lid, return to the boil, and, once boiling, cook for a further 8 minutes.
Furnish yourself with a sturdy chopping board and a large chef’s knife or cleaver. Chop the lobster and crab into manageable pieces, being sure to crack the shells. Put all the shellfish in a large bowl or bucket and add the marinade.
Turn the mixture thoroughly, to ensure that it is well covered, then leave in a cool place for 1 hour.
Meanwhile, set your oven to its highest setting. Spread the shellfish evenly over two or three large roasting trays, then roast in the oven for 10-15 minutes until the molluscs have opened and the crustaceans have taken on some colour. Serve immediately on a large platter or distribute among individual bowls.
BAKED BRILL IN A SALT CRUST
Serves 6-8
Brill is a delicately flavoured, firm-fleshed white fish, not unlike turbot. It marries well with cream and butter sauces. The technique of baking in salt could not be easier, and can be applied to any fresh fish — all you need is a load of salt.
2 egg whites
2kg fine sea salt 1 brill, weighing 1.5-2kg (gutted, with head and tail intact)
8 oysters (optional)
Preheat the oven to 200C/425F/Gas Mark 7. Beat the egg whites in a cup and mix thoroughly into the salt. Spread half the salt in an even layer on the bottom of a large roasting tray. Rinse the brill under cold water and pat it dry with kitchen towels. Carefully lay it on the salt in the pan, then spread the rest of the salt on top so that it is completely sealed. Bake on the middle shelf of the oven for 20-30 minutes (depending on the efficiency of your oven and the size of the fish).
Remove and leave it to rest for 5-10 minutes. In the meantime, pop the oysters in the oven and bake until the shells open. I would recommend serving this dish with new potatoes or mash, and a green vegetable such as kale, chard or samphire.
CHIVE BEURRE BLANC
There is nothing very complicated about beurre blanc, and it is a superb sauce to go with all white fish. You can change the character by using other fresh green herbs.
2 tbsp white wine vinegar
1 glass dry white wine
50g finely chopped shallots
3 tbsp double cream
200g cold unsalted butter cut into cubes
1 bunch of chives, finely chopped
In a shallow saucepan, heat the vinegar, white wine and shallots, and reduce until there is barely any liquid in the pan. Add the double cream and reduce this by half. Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the butter, a little at a time. Season and mix in the herbs, reserving a few to sprinkle over the finished dish.
