In 2003, I approached the company IMG with the dream of helping to
re-establish London as a serious fashion player. The dream was Fashion
Fringe, a competition aimed at finding and providing a platform for young
design talent. After 30 years in fashion, I knew a lot of people, but I had
no idea how to get my concept off the ground. Thankfully, IMG did — and
shared my belief that it was a dream worth pursuing. The following spring,
we travelled around the country, explaining how the competition would work.
The entries flooded in, culminating in the first Fashion Fringe final, which
took place during London Fashion Week in 2004.
Nobody could have predicted that, just three winners later, the event would
have become such a prestigious and talked-about fixture in the fashion
calendar. Last year, Tom Ford, the international design guru, became our
honorary chairman. The credibility he brings is beyond price. What’s on
offer for the winner, however, remains the same: a £100,000 prize that
includes all the technical and legal help needed to set up a business, as
well as a mentoring programme to ensure that it works long term.
The question is: have you got what it takes to be our next winner? The judging
panel, drawn from all areas of fashion, changes every year, so there is no
formula. We are open to talent of any kind. And it isn’t just about design
skills. We also look at each applicant’s dedication and self-belief. We want
designers who have thought about how they can make their own unique mark.
Over the next month, we’ll be touring the country to let you know about this
year’s competition — details of venues are on the website (see below).
Of course, finding a winner is only the beginning. The real value of the
enterprise lies in the nurturing that comes afterwards, and we have been
lucky in finding patrons who have enabled us to do this. From the outset,
Red Bull has consistently helped us to give the project wings, sponsoring
the trophy presented each year to the winner. This is designed by an
important figure in the art or fashion world (last year’s was created by the
jeweller Solange Azagury-Partridge). This enthusiasm is echoed by L’Oréal
Paris, which not only provides top hair and make-up artists, but creates
unique looks for the shows of each of the four finalists. Technical support
— probably the most vital cog in the Fashion Fringe wheel — is provided by
the Centre for Fashion Enterprise and London College of Fashion, which have
helped with studio space, workrooms, technical assistance and guidance in
managing a business and its finances.
Like all new kids on the block, we also need moral support, and we have been
amazed at the encouragement we have received from the international media.
Even more encouraging is the fact that we have been accepted as an integral
part of the London fashion scene, with support from Creative London and the
mayor Ken Livingstone’s City Hall office. And helping us this year are two
new sponsors. The first is the fashion etailer Net-a-porter, which has a
following across the world. Starting this year, our winner’s clothes will be
on sale on the website, alongside those of the top fashion names from Milan,
Paris and New York. The other new patron is Superdrug, which will be
sponsoring our new accessories award, as well as our nationwide roadshow.
The Fashion Fringe winners will also be designing packaging for special
Superdrug promotions.
Fashion Fringe has gone from strength to strength, realising my initial dream
in ways I could never have imagined. This year, again, it will help young
design talent to realise theirs.
GAVIN DOUGLAS
The 2006 winner was born in Birmingham in 1983. Douglas studied fashion and
textiles at Northampton University. After graduating in 2004, he launched
his own label, to provide what he calls “urban couture for women who want to
express their individuality through their clothing, with unique fabrics and
varied finishes”. Douglas is interested in history and heritage. His winning
Fashion Fringe collection was inspired by black Victorians; his latest
autumn/winter show paid homage to Windrush beauties. Since winning Fashion
Fringe last September, he has been in discussion with Bergdorf Goodman and
is currently taking orders in Paris.
SINHA-STANIC
Fiona Sinha was born in 1979 in Aberdeen and Sasha Stanic was born in the same
year in Croatia. They met when they were studying at Central St Martins and
decided to create a joint label. After Fashion Fringe in 2004, they were
offered posts with Donna Karan, but chose to go their own way, backed by
Aeffe. They are now entirely independent and their clothes — noted for their
sleek modernity — are made in Croatia. They have more than 60 stockists
worldwide, have made £2m since Fashion Fringe and their growing celebrity
fan base includes Chloë Sevigny, Brittany Murphy and Keira Knightley.
BASSO & BROOKE
The first ever Fashion Fringe winners, Christopher Brooke and the
Brazilian-born Bruno Basso met in 2002. They soon started working together,
developing a label that has become known for its audacious patterns and
brilliant colours. Backed by Aeffe, they already have a world name, with
more than 70 stockists. And things keep moving up. As Brooke says: “Already,
this season is our best so far.” Celebrity fans include Dita Von Teese and
Paris Hilton. High points of their career so far include having their
collection photographed for Vogue by David Bailey and shows in Moscow and
Sao Paulo.
MODERNIST
The design duo Modernist comprises Abdul Koroma, who was born in Freetown,
Sierra Leone, and Andrew Jones, who hails from Northumberland. Although the
two of them studied fashion at Kingston University (Jones graduating in 1999
and Koroma in 2001), they did not meet there. That happened when they were
both working in Italy for MaxMara. The pair soon decided to start their own
label, Modernist, based on their shared belief that clothes for modern women
should be just that. They currently sell in Saudi Arabia and New York.
ERDEM
Born in 1977 in Montreal to a Turkish father and a British mother, Erdem
studied liberal arts, but a work placement with Vivienne Westwood convinced
him that fashion was what he really wanted to do. He then took an MA in
fashion at the Royal College of Art. Erdem’s work is inspired by prints and
textiles and brings together influences from the many countries and cultures
he visited with his family as a child. Claudia Schiffer, Tilda Swinton and
Nicole Richie have all worn his feminine designs. His sales have tripled in
the past two years and he now has 18 points of sale worldwide.
For details of how to enter Fashion Fringe 2007, visit www.fashionfringe.co.uk
(closing date for applications is April 27)
