There is a bit in the film Sideways where one character says he hasn’t opened his 1961 Cheval Blanc (one of the all-time great wines) because he has been waiting for a special occasion. “The day you open a ’61 Cheval Blanc, that’s the special occasion,” the girl he’s talking to replies. And she’s dead right. Wine is the occasion. But good food helps.

The main thing to bear in mind if you have a treasured bottle (or three) is that you do not want the food to overwhelm the wine: fine wine is complex and subtle. That doesn’t mean you can’t have anything more elaborate than dover sole or roast lamb. You can, but avoid killer ingredients, and beware of those that can punch below the belt, such as tomatoes, because of their acidity, and fruit such as prunes and apricots in savoury dishes, because of their sweetness.

The other crucial thing is that the cook must get the chance to enjoy the wine, too. Therefore, these recipes are not only wine-friendly, they won’t tie you to the kitchen while everyone else is soaking up the fabulous wine.

SMOKED-SALMON MOUSSE

Smoked salmon is a good vehicle for a fine Chablis, blanc de blancs champagne or dry riesling, but it can be too strong for richer, lower-acid wines, including white burgundies (other than Chablis) and most new-world chardonnays. This is where a creamy mousse comes in. If you use a packet of smoked-salmon trimmings, you need to be certain of their quality.

Serves 4

225g smoked salmon
200ml crème fraîche
1 tbsp creamed horseradish
45g butter
Zest and juice of 1½ a small lemon
Freshly ground black pepper

If you are not using trimmings, cut up the salmon roughly. Put all the ingredients in a food processor and blend. Do not overdo it — it shouldn’t be oily smooth. Serve with lightly buttered or lightly toasted wholemeal bread.

CRAB MOUSSE

I’ve tried more elaborate mousses and terrines, but less is definitely more, and I have yet to improve upon this; it is basically a 50-year-old recipe by Elizabeth David. It is an ideal first course for showing off a treasured bottle of white burgundy or new-world chardonnay. If you buy crab meat, your source must be impeccable and you must use it on the same day.

Serves 4

1 large crab or 250g fresh crab meat (white and brown)
1 tbsp freshly grated parmesan cheese
Salt A pinch of cayenne pepper
Juice of ½ a lemon
1 sachet gelatine
80ml double cream
2 egg whites
Fresh dill, to garnish (optional)

If using a whole crab, nutcrackers (or a small hammer) and a skewer are useful for extracting the meat. Mix the meat with the parmesan cheese, some salt, cayenne pepper and lemon juice. Next, dissolve the gelatine according to the packet instructions. Leave to cool slightly, then stir half of it into the crab mixture and discard the rest. Stir the cream into the mix and refrigerate. When nearly set (30-40 minutes), beat the egg whites until stiff and carefully fold them in. Chill for a couple of hours. Garnish with a small amount of dill and serve next to or on top of a few salad leaves (very lightly dressed, in deference to your fine wine), with wholemeal toast or crusty white bread.

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