“In those days, there was no choice,” says Barbara Hulanicki, creator and founder of Biba. “Lipstick came in coral, eye shadow in pale blue and blusher in peach. If you wanted something else, you had to make it yourself, so that’s what we did. I took a palette of the colours that I wanted to create to Kolmar Cosmetics. The technicians there were quite surprised, but very excited. They had never seen anything like it.”

The sample batch of 50 palettes sold out within an hour of hitting the shop, striking a chord with celebrity fans such as Brigitte Bardot, Marianne Faithfull, David Bowie and just about anyone on the swinging London scene.

The look that Hulanicki created, which was influenced by screen sirens from the golden age of Hollywood, became a beauty archetype. “It was all about glamour,” says Hulanicki. The typical Biba girl was doll-faced, with creamy skin and delicate rosy cheeks. “It wasn’t a romantic look, it was more poisoned than that,” adds the photographer Sarah Moon, who shot some of the store’s signature campaigns.

The other essential components of the look were cupid’s-bow lips and sexy eyes fringed with dramatic eyelashes. This was a natural progression from the hippie era, and it pre-empted the glam-rock and gothic beauty ideals. But it was never harsh; even with the black lipstick and nails there was a softness, due to the purity of the skin.

This season’s 1960s fashion revival means the Biba look is as relevant today as it was then. This time around, it’s slightly subtler, but no less enchanting. You only need to look at the singer Alison Goldfrapp — a Biba beauty reincarnated — to see how modern this style can be.

HOW TO RE-CREATE THE BIBA LOOK

Skin The key to the Biba face is to get your base right. The make-up artist Lee Pycroft recommends applying concealer around the nose and eyes to get rid of any redness or under-eye shadows. Then, use a creamy foundation such as Clarins True Comfort (£19.50; 0800 036 3558) over the whole face. “This will create a pure base that will enhance the colours you apply afterwards,” she says.

Cheeks Use a pinky cream blush such as Becca Crème Blush in Wild Orchid (£18; 020 7225 2501) for a satin finish.

Eyes Go for rich, dark colours around the eyes. Terry Barber, head make-up artist at Mac, recommends Mac Eye Shadow in Shadowy Lady and Femme Noir (£9 each). “Smudge the shadow along the lower rim of the eye, using the fine end of an eye-shadow brush to accentuate the lash line. Or use an eye pencil such as Mac Kohl Eye Pencils in Tarnished or Prunella (£10.50 each).”

Lashes According to Pycroft, the trick with the lashes is to “use that extra bit if product on the end of the mascara wand that you usually wipe off and, with the tip of the wand, dab it along the roots of the lashes, then work it up the length of each lash to really make the most of them”. Try Guerlain Divinora Lengthening and Curving Mascara (£15.50; 01932 233909).

Eyebrows Brows should be well groomed to accentuate the eyes and create that all-important wide-eyed look.

Lips The lips should be a matt nude. Try Clinique Colour Surge Lipstick in Pink Style (£12).

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