Claim your free 2010 double sided wall chart
Lagerfeld’s ideas of womanhood have nothing to do with family. His feminine ideal, he says, is about “being liberated from daily life and everything that is normal”. And that is what most women dream of when it comes to their sex lives — being somehow unhindered by the suffocating dirge of reality. “I like what the French call l’aventurière,” he says. “The image of the type of woman who has a past in her present life.
Oscar Wilde said, ‘I like men who have a future and women who have a past.’ I like the idea that with a woman we really don’t know.”
Of the Herzigova character in Room Service, he asks: “Is she a divorcée, an adventuress, a call girl, a businesswoman, a trophy wife, a spy?” Those are the career opportunities for Lagerfeld’s fantasy woman. Busy working mums don’t get a look-in. As the fashion insider says: “That theatrical side to gay men in fashion is what makes it thrilling. They idolise sex, glamour and beauty.”
The women who inspire Lagerfeld are not, then, on the way to the office. They are frequently long dead — mistresses and wicked manipulative rebels: the Comtesse du Barry; Madame de Pompadour; Colette; the French actress and lesbian lover of George Sand, Marie Dorval (“She said, ‘I’m not beautiful; I am worse’”); the famous early-20th-century harpsichord player who lived with three men at the same time. And then, of course, there’s the woman he describes as “a devil on earth”. His mother.
Tara Subkoff, the Imitation of Christ designer, was not the first person to observe that “fashion is a gay man’s profession”. The popular feminist argument is that gay designers are misogynists; ultimately motivated by their own sexual appetites, they force womanly curves into boyish angles, and toy with unpalatable themes such as rape, S&M and prostitution. Roland Mouret’s Galaxy dress, lauded for its artful sculpting of the female form, is an exercise in suffocating Victorian constriction; Alexander McQueen is accused of misogyny every time he sends a collection down the runway.
Yet the reason women adore fashion is that it presents us with exciting stories in which we are the stars. Tom Ford said last year that male designers “are more objective. We don’t come with the baggage of hating certain parts of our bodies”. Scrutiny of that undoubtedly true statement is probably best left to fashion experts, feminists and students of the politics of eating disorders. For now, let’s just enjoy the escapism offered by the fairy tale of clothes.
“My mother thought men were not that important,” Lagerfeld says. “She told me, ‘One can have a child with whichever man one wants, because women are the strength in life.’”
Lagerfeld’s fantasy woman is not only strong, but sexually free and confident. She is cruel and mysterious, and she is allowed a history — whether bad or good. She has style and wit. She is an ideal we enjoy because we have difficulty seeing her in ourselves. Mired in day-in, day-out womanhood, we lose the epic nature of ourselves. And it’s this, perhaps, that explains why pictures by a powder-haired, ponytailed gay septuagenarian can make a woman feel quite so sexy.
Industry sectors news at a glance. Interactive heatmap, video and podcast
Everything the Business Traveller needs to know to make a better trip
Get ready for the winter sports season, with our resort guides and snow reports
We are backing British business, what is the confidence of the nation and what businesses are succeeding?
Growing demand for energy, oil that is harder to reach and the rise of carbon dioxide emissions. We examine the energy challenge
With rail travel in Europe on the rise, we review the benefits of travelling by train
In this special section we explore new food trends to help improve your dinner party and impress guests
Enjoy further reading from Travel to Fashion, Business to Sport, discover more
Shortcuts to help you find sections and articles
1998
£47,955
2004
£56,950
Essex
Check your free Experian credit report before applying
Car Insurance
c. £70,000
The Duke of Edinburgh’s Award
Windsor
£123,460 pa
The Law Commission
London
Southwark County Council
£100,000
Home Office
Liverpool
Moments from Battersea Park.
For sale with Winkworth
Find out about shared ownership.
See your free Experian credit report beforehand
Includes flights, accommodation with room upgrades, transfers city tours in Hong Kong and Bangkok.
PremierHolidays.co.uk
For your ultimate tailor-made ski holiday, click here
Get covered on your travels with a superb range of policies at great prices. Visit InsureandGo.com
Choose from the beautiful landscape and tranquil beaches of Oahu, Kauai, Maui & Big Island.
Contact our advertising team for advertising and sponsorship in Times Online, The Times and The Sunday Times, or place your advertisement.
Times Online Services: Dating | Jobs | Property Search | Used Cars | Holidays | Births, Marriages, Deaths | Subscriptions | E-paper
News International associated websites: Globrix Property Search | Milkround
Copyright 2009 Times Newspapers Ltd.
This service is provided on Times Newspapers' standard Terms and Conditions. Please read our Privacy Policy.To inquire about a licence to reproduce material from Times Online, The Times or The Sunday Times, click here.This website is published by a member of the News International Group. News International Limited, 1 Virginia St, London E98 1XY, is the holding company for the News International group and is registered in England No 81701. VAT number GB 243 8054 69.