Luke Leitch
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Wit, MP, cook, epicure, habitué of the turf, TV personality and, inevitably, as the fiercely competitive backbone of Just a Minute. These are just a few of the terms in which Sir Clement Freud, who has died aged 84, is being so fondly eulogised today. And he was a brilliant journalist too. Fortunately, for The Times, it was with us that Freud enjoyed one of his most enduring professional relationships. From the early 1980s until his final piece last year - in which he asserted that he would be leaving all his money to his grandchildren - Freud filed more than 500 articles for The Times that represent some of his finest work.
Here we have tried to present the best of it, including excerpts from Freud on Friday, the column in which he covered sports events, and Gut Feelings, in which he interviewed other notables over a convivial restaurant meal and then chucked in a recipe for good measure. Nowhere before or since has one column covered so many bases.
There were also diaries, one-off features and the odd book review. Charles Wilson, Editor of The Times from 1980 to 1985, who first brought Freud to this paper, says: “He was a brilliant writer, analytical where necessary, yet always with this overlying humour.” Wilson was more than Freud's first editor at The Times. They were firm friends too, who met during a meeting at Haydock in the 1970s and went on to co-own several racehorses. “I must have laughed more in his company than with any other person I have known in my life,” he recalls.
Freud was something of a pioneer, as Sir Peter Stothard, Editor of The Times from 1992 to 2002, says. “He was a celebrity writer in an age when celebrities, particularly at The Times, were rather frowned upon.
“To understand Clement you have to imagine a totally different world of politics and newspapers, in which the Liberals were interesting, where there were no celebrity columnists, very little wit and humour and very few people who wrote about what it was like to go to a sports event, or to go to a restaurant. That was why he was so important, and valuable, and why he rated himself very highly - as editors of The Times did, too.”
Freud was also pretty intolerant of any sub-editor or executive who contemplated tweaking that copy. As Sir Peter says: “He really cared about the words.”
He took care to cultivate his editors, too. Keith Blackmore (then Deputy Sports Editor of The Times, now Deputy Editor) who handled Freud on Friday, recalls being liberally lunched at a Marco Pierre White restaurant in the 1990s. White joined them, wine was drunk, and afterwards Freud insisted on taking Blackmore, by cab, for a flutter at the nearest betting shop. Freud hailed the taxi, which dropped them off at a Ladbrokes - 40 yards down the road.
It was only a few days ago that Wilson received his invitation to Freud's 85th birthday party, a supper for 15 that had been planned for next Friday.It read: “This is to remind you of the time, date and location - although it may be wise to keep an eye on the obituary column.”
Paying tribute to Alan Coren after his death two years ago, Freud wrote: “I think he will do well in Heaven, or wherever it is that talented communicators go after giving such pleasure to so many during their time on Earth.” An opinion that could apply equally to its author.
Analyse these ... the best of Freud
A high old time
Thursday, July 20, 2006
Three young acquaintances of mine did the peaks in 23 hours the other day. “You should try it,” said one, “you and your new knees.” For the record, I am 82 and was indeed fitted with titanium and plastic knees six months ago. When propositioned recently by a woman to “come upstairs and make love”, I had to explain that it was one or the other. But decided that I too could be a record climber: the fastest old man to mount Notting Hill, Primrose Hill and Parliament Hill in a day...
From my Ordnance Survey maps I gleaned that the ascents were long rather than steep, requiring changes of socks rather than crampons. I was impressed by the advice to start the day with a bowl of porridge and I was apprehensive about chatting with fellow walkers descending from the top, quizzing them on the conditions underfoot.
It is customary to plant at the summit a flag, signed and dated to say “I was here”. I purchased three flags and poles and gave serious thought to the inscription on the message, a message which I felt should end with “God save the Queen”.
I consulted the Met Office. They said they expected a lot of weather - it is summer - so I set off, leaving a note for my wife on the kitchen table (note on table, wife in bed) saying “I may be some little time.”
Cold Comfort from Melodius Celery
Afterthoughts, December 19, 1994
It is part of Sod's law that now we have all-weather race tracks, indoor athletic arenas and covered football stadiums with underpitch heating, December afternoons come in at 14C.
It was, of course, not ever thus and quite especially was it not in 1967. The freeze caused everything that had been arranged to be postponed.
In the sports room of the old Daily Herald building, we played poker, waited for the thaw and, one afternoon, feeling like Captain Oates on Scott's ill-fated expedition, I told them I would not be long and went to Park Royal.
The dog track was covered with a thin layer of straw and the crowd usually about 1,200, boosted to twice that number by the lack of alternatives, huddled in the bars and restaurants.
There were tables at which you could eat beef sandwiches for 3s 6d. The tote was weakish but Park Royal with a good proportion of winning favourites was not only a fair track; when the wind was in the right direction, it brought the uplifting smell of hops from the Guinness factory across the road.
I see from my notes that I placed money on Melodious Celery, whose performance failed to match the beauty of her name. And I had coffee with a racing manager who told me that dogs from traps one, two and six narrowly outperformed the mid-trap runners and, if I did forecasts involving the three favoured draws, I would show a slight profit over the season.
As “a slight profit” was not what I had in mind, I backed a dog led up by a kennel maid with a huge bust. He came fifth. That system is a good way of showing a slight loss.
Spaghetti-like figure with a Rye sense of humour
January 2, 1993
The [Casa Conti] has half a dozen tables and 25 dishes from which to choose, a bad sign. But when my guest arrived, punctually, quietly, limping a bit, he explained that this was the only place around where they turn off the piped music when he arrives.
The waiter beamed. He and Spike Milligan conversed in advanced phrase-book Italian. I believe I caught “I would like a room facing the sea...” There were certainly lots of “benes”. The menu, uniquely, lists the 38 tapes of its music centre so that you could have, say, spaghetti con vongole with number 36 the 1812 Overture. There is also a wine list.
Milligan ordered melone followed by minestrone. Did he want Parmesan cheese with his minestra? No. He is seriously thin and, as he ate less than half his soup, no pudding and only sipped at a small glass of Orvieto, our luncheon did nothing to make him less so.
He was born in India in 1918; father was regimental sergeant major in the Royal Artillery. In 1932, the government of the day reduced the strength of the British Army by 10 per cent. Father was forced to retire, and the Milligans travelled to England and took up residence in an attic in Catford, southeast London. What did they eat?
“Straightforward British meals: ox heart, cod's roe, pigs' trotters, faggots, suet puddings; nothing was favourite. I went to Brownhill Road Boys' School, learnt to masturbate; teacher stood over us while we did it.” The occupants of the other tables at Casa Conti, who had been listening raptly to our conversation, now made rhubarb-rhubarb noises like a well-rehearsed rabble. “It seemed like that,” Milligan said. The noise subsided.
His star dish
May 3, 1986
As “trolley” is a word they do not use in nice restaurants, Ninety Park Lane has a caravanne des desserts, and if you think that sounds pretentious or theatrical, you must observe Martin Chadwick, the driver of the caravan who has a smooth line in patter as he trundles his tall round vehicle between the tables. “A cream of sweet chestnut and liqueurs with a hint of praline set in a crisp pastry shell and flecked with candied meringue. I can tell you in confidence that this is the restaurant manager's preferred dessert,” he says. David Frost, who eats no puddings, calls upon Martin to do his act just for the joy of it, and the restaurant manager (he who eats the alcoholic mont blanc) passes by now and then and murmurs “rein it in Martin”. In his defence, the five-foot vehicle, topped by a shiny alcoholic summer pudding, deserves enthusiasm.
Navigate the dinner-party minefield
October 17, 1996
There are in food and wine a few marriages made in heaven: walnuts and vintage port spring to mind; ripe white peaches with champagne...so brilliant that Italians liquidise the fruit, add it to the wine and call it a Bellini. There are combinations of food and drink which are strictly for the home: braised oxtail which deserves strong ale to quaff rather than sip; Irish stew with which nothing is as right as a nice hot cup of strong Indian tea. You cannot have that in restaurants, not even with the mark-up on tea at 1,000 per cent. When it comes to profit, restaurants need high volume and even a big gain on a 10p commodity is only just enough to pay for the one in 24 teaspoons nicked by customers.
On the whole, any wine goes with any food, especially if the conversation is buzzing, but avoid obvious pitfalls: red wine with shellfish; acidic salads when you are drinking soft smooth red wines.
Watercress does funny things to your palate - makes it very hard to appreciate good wine, does a plate of watercress salad. So, look on the bright side, if the wine you have bought is iffy, bring on watercress.
Some questions of interpretation
April 14, 2007
In my youth “Freud” was not a household name in Britain. At prep school I was once called to the headmaster's study to be beaten for talking during class, told to take off my trousers “and your pants, you stupid little boy”, lay across the man's knee as he fondled my bum with his gnarled hand, whereafter he said: “I am not going to smack you because your grandfather would disapprove.” When people ask whether being related to a famous man is a help or a hindrance, I think of that.
I was called up in l942. I was sent a third-class rail ticket to Glasgow, and stood in the corridor of a packed train for six hours, chatting to another 18-year-old also bound for Maryhill Barracks. On arrival we were told to wait until our names were called.
After a while the sergeant called “Frood”. Too tired to argue, I came to attention and shuffled towards the designated location when the man called “Jung”. I gripped [my new friend] by the shoulder and said: “This is the most amazing coincidence: my name is Freud and Freud and Jung, I mean, what an extraordinary thing.” He said: “My name is Young.”
[My grandfather Sigmund] hated the US; he was unwell and [on one] occasion when the demands of the Freud bladder caused him to ask Jung to walk very close to him while he urinated down his trouser leg. Nicer men would have kept quiet about this. Jung did not qualify under the “nice man” appellation. Jung used his position to denigrate his teacher whenever he could. They fell out big time.
My father, an architect and the youngest Freud son, [once] took me to Vienna to meet him. I was delighted. I had pillow fights with Paula, the Freud maid, sat dutifully at meals and was taken for a walk by my grandfather, me holding one hand, the leash of his alsatian dog in the other. On that walk we came across a man having an epileptic fit. The man's hat had fallen from his head and,as he twitched and salivated, people placed money into the hat as a token of sympathy. We walked away, grandfather, the dog and I. Why did you not give him any money, I asked. Grandfather looked at me and said: “He did not do it well enough.”
In 1978 I was on a parliamentary delegation to Japan and returned via China during the Cultural Revolution, a choice also made by young Winston Churchill, then the Conservative MP for Stretford. On my final day I was debriefed by the Minister for Information who asked if there was anything at all I would like to ask. I said: “Yes. Everything you do, you do with extreme care and precision. When I ask questions that your government does not like, my driver calls for me five minutes later than arranged. When I ask if there are any blind or handicapped children in China, I get cabbage soup for dinner.
“Now I am in your country with a colleague, than whom I am older, have been in parliament longer, have held higher positions in our respective political parties: we are both staying at the Peking Palace Hotel and his suite is bigger than mine. Why?”
The Minister, very embarrassed, finally said: “It is because Mr Churchill had a famous grandfather.” It is the only time that I have been out-grandfathered.
The night that words failed The Greatest; Afterthoughts
November 28, 1994
When the recording angel draws a thin line beneath my achievements during the 1960s, he will say “and then what?” In the 1970s, I shall reply, I was briefly boxing correspondent for the Financial Times and the editor said I could witness the [Muhammad] Ali contest against [Joe] Frazier. In this, “The Greatest”, for the first time since his epic bout against Mr Liston, started as underdog.
Madison Gardens ringside seats looked as if they had been filled by a berserk talent coordinator for a prime-time talk show: politicians, astronauts and hoodlums crushed against movie moguls and media tycoons. Sinatra's bodyguards had a brief hoe-down with Burt Lancaster's minders. Ella Fitzgerald waved to Truman Capote, who giggled.
Frazier was dressed in an emerald green dressing- gown embroidered with his name and that of his five children in ever-diminishing type to make it look like an optician's wallchart. Both men danced around their corners exuding adrenalin ... until Ali executed a fandango that took him Frazier-wards for a quick push and short sharp goading word before dancing away, gloating hugely. It was the action of an archetypal bully and though Ali outweighed his opponent by only 10lb, he looked twice his size,
At the bell, Frazier moved forwards, Ali back. Frazier threw punches, Ali held out his long left arm and narrowed his eyes. Frazier swung and connected. Ali danced and goaded and countered. By the eleventh round, only a knockout by the Louisiana Lip could have realised his prediction that “boxing experts will be shocked to see how easy I beat Frazier”.
Ali won round 14 but he no longer floated like a butterfly, stung no harder than a midge, shuffled in the manner of a proud, bewildered ox soaking up punches with the crowd now shouting “good old Smokey Joe”.
In his corner, they wept as their man slumped to his seat, no longer the prettiest, nor the greatest, nor even champion again, and at length one of his management team came to us in the ringside press seats and explained that “Mr Ali regrets he is unable to talk tonight; in fact, he may have broken his jaw.”
Diary
August 8, 1988
My distinguished Aunt Anna had a house on the west coast of Cork and always spoke with affection of the simple, straightforward decency of the local people. She was in Skibereen for her 70th birthday and received hundreds of telegrams of goodwill from all parts of the world where psycho-analysis rules OK.
The messages were telephoned through to the postmistress, who inscribed them on greetings forms and hired a boy to deliver them hourly to the Freud house. During the afternoon she received one which read: “The rapists of Philadelphia send good wishes and best regards.” Over which my elderly maiden aunt puzzled greatly. When she called on the postmistress the next day she asked if they might send off for verification. The postmistress said that she, too, had been shocked by the words and checked them, and they had been right. Therapists is not a word in common usage around those parts.
You can have my wine but not my money
February 2, 2008
In October 1950 I left everything to my wife, told her so at dinner; she was too well brought up to ask questions. In fact, “everything” then was under £100, my paternal grandfather's silk night-shirts, which my grandmother had given me as a 21st birthday present, and some extremely heavy, leather luggage nicked from a German factory that my regiment had “liberated” a week or two before VE Day.
Last week, 58 years, five children and 16 grandchildren later, my first wife (we remain together, I call her “my first wife” to keep her on her toes) asked whether I had made a will. Not for a while, I admitted, and determined to do it all over again.
Things have changed, the way they do. I lost Sigmund's night-shirts and the heavy leather luggage, but have quite a lot of wine, the odd painting, a letter from Margaret Thatcher and a picture of me with Muhammad Ali. I took my children around our flat in turns. They all wanted all the wine, my wife's desk, my collection of cookery books and the same picture, so that will be no trouble.
I shall leave no money to my rich children but have them think well of me by setting up a trust for their children. Between three and ten £50 notes to be sent to them on their birthdays between ages 11 and 17, and then a proper lump sum for comforts on their gap year. I told my accountant, who shook his head. “Governments are suspicious of trusts” was his verdict. It would cost a lot to set up, difficult to administer, liable to taxation.
So while I remain alive, my time will be principally devoted to collecting new banknotes (nothing celebratory about receiving used currency), stamp licking, envelope sealing and missing due birth dates because of holidays or visits to undertakers. It made me understand why some people leave all their money to the Battersea Dogs' Home.
Diary
August 22, 1988
I have been given a Magic Kenkoh. It is a blue plastic cylinder with pimples; you grip it in the palm of your hand and it turns red. “Colour change,” states the instruction leaflet, “means you are sound and healthy today”. I have been sound and healthy every day since I have had it and am particularly taken with the promise that “it may prevent hands and feet from getting older”. All I shall now have to worry about are my face and body.
There is a chart that shows pressure points of the hand “to let the blood circulate in good balance”. You can either press the round metal part at the top of Kenkoh against the gall bladder, liver, heart or sexual organ or roll the pimples across it, which might be hazardous as eye, kidney and stomach pressure points are within an inch of each other on the palm. One disappointing addendum: “Over 86F, apt to change colour by itself.” In a hot climate you could be sound, healthy and dead.
It was raining on Thursday afternoon when two girls came up to me in the drizzle of the forecourt of a motorway service station and asked if I had a donor card. I said not, and told them in reply to their question that I shall be pleased for any functioning part of my body to be used to help mankind. They asked for my name and date of birth and said sign here. “Is that it?” Yes. There must be a more scientific way of leaving your body to science.
There will be a funeral for Sir Clement Freud at St Bride's Church, Fleet Street, on Friday April 24 at midday to which family, friends and colleagues are invited.
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