Richard Girling
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My earliest memory of the sea is not of the sea itself but of a photograph. It was taken two years after the end of the second world war on the beach at Skegness, by my mother, with the ubiquitous Box Brownie. I am 18 months old, dressed in a knitted romper suit and taking peculiar interest in a black leather bag. Inside it, apparently, is a packet of Smith’s crisps.
My newest memory of the sea is from yesterday. I am on a marsh near my home in Norfolk, gazing upon the same North Sea that lured my parents all those years ago to Skegness. The place is beyond beauty. It is sublime. The tide is high, changing a landscape of creeks and sand bars into a rippling sheet of silver. Geese, ducks and gulls stipple the surface. Wading birds feast in the mud. A pair of seals raise their heads above water that has surged maybe two metres deep across a footpath. They register the human interloper, then roll and wrestle like puppies.
Nowhere in the UK is more than 72 miles from the sea. Every aspect of our lives – our diet, climate, politics, art, suspicion of foreigners – even the blood in our veins – is conditioned by it. As a people, we are not so much by the sea as of it. Transmuted through the deep-fat fryer, it taints the air in every city and town. It is our favourite day out, our pride and national identifier. We can’t know when our oldest ancestor first launched himself on a log. By some time between 1890BC and 1700BC, however, Bronze Age Britons were advanced in the art of building proper, internally braced planked boats with caulked seams and keels. We lagged behind the Egyptians, who had the technology at least 700 years earlier, but few nations on Earth have left a more powerful wake. When Julius Caesar arrived, he found an energetic maritime nation ploughing a well-furrowed sea and with a well-established tradition of shipbuilding.
The eastern shoreline is dynamic and ever-changing. Cliffs are nibbled away, sand swept by the tide to raise new beaches further south. Whole towns and villages lie beneath the waves, and more will follow. And yet, in the wild places, there is a feeling of unchangingness. A Bronze Age man, a Neanderthal, any half-sapient hominid from the entire span of human evolution, could return to a place like this and be entirely unconscious of the passing millennia.
It is a powerful illusion, but an illusion all the same. Go to any beach. Even on the most pristine there is garbage, tide lines delineated not just by wrack and driftwood but by cans and plastic bottles. Readers of The Sunday Times in the late 1970s did much to make such despoliation illegal. Hundreds joined in a beach-litter survey that, by recording and analysing serial numbers on plastic bottles, demonstrated what everyone always suspected but never proved – that Britain’s rim of rubbish was the gift of the merchant marine, garbage dumped from ships. Armed with this data, the Department of the Environment (as it then was), had all the evidence it needed to ratify Annex V of the International Convention for the Prevention of Pollution from Ships, known as Marpol, outlawing the dumping of garbage, which came into force on December 31, 1988.
But fouling the sea is an invisible crime, and unstoppable. The proportion of plastic in beach litter increases all the time as older, less durable materials – wood, metals, glass and textiles – are supplanted. In 2005 it was 59%. On the beach it abrades over time into synthetic sand. At sea, where it accounts for more than half the floating litter, it endangers birds, animals and fish. More than 90% of the 30,000 gannets’ nests on Grassholm Island, off the Pembrokeshire coast, now contain plastic material in which legs can become ensnared. Plastic bags block the intestinal tracts of mammals, turtles and sharks. Globally, 1m birds and 100,000 marine mammals and turtles are killed every year by plastic.
In 2005, the Marine Conservation Society calculated that each kilometre of shoreline yielded on average 1,981 items of rubbish. This included 117 pieces of plastic for every 100 metres – more than one a metre. “Sanitary items” washed out through sewers occurred at seven-metre intervals, and glass at 16 metres.
But “average” of course conceals significant local differences. The northern tip of Scotland, for example, suffers only 26 bits of “sewage related debris” per kilometre. West Wales and northeast England get 744.
Almost all of it is illegal. Marpol bans all plastics from the sea, and severely restricts all other kinds of waste. No rubbish should be dumped within three nautical miles of the coast. Garbage that is not ground to a particle-size of less than 25 millimetres is banned to a distance of 12 miles, and buoyant lining and packaging material to 25 miles. And yet it’s hard to see that much has changed. The Sunday Times survey 30 years ago was designed by Trevor Dixon, then a PhD student at King’s College London, now a senior lecturer at Buckinghamshire Chilterns University College. He still surveys the Kent coast and reports that 90% of litter still comes from ships. It’s the same old stuff that we were finding in the 1970s: drinks bottles, household detergents, bleach. The Hellenic Marine Environment Protection Association has calculated that a plastic bottle at sea will take 450 years to biodegrade, raising the possibility that maritime theme pubs in the early 26th century will adorn their nooks with Harpic.
Britain’s appetite for sea rather than freshwater fish seems to have developed during the early 11th century. This may have been due to the poisoning of waterways by urban effluents; or it may have been a matter of taste, for who would have preferred the mud-flavoured denizens of lowland rivers to the salty tang of cod? For whatever reason, it launched a new age of heroic adventure. By the first decade of the 15th century, ships from England’s east coast were a common sight around Iceland. They sailed in March for a round trip of 1,800 miles, after which the survivors would return with salt cod in August or September. In favourable conditions a ship might reach Iceland in a week. In bad, it could take a month. In the worst, the best a man could hope for was to perish swiftly. In 1419, a storm off the Icelandic coast sank 25 English boats in a day (this at a time when the entire fleet might have been no more than 30). That ship owners were prepared to hazard their vessels, and crews to risk their lives, says much about the value of the trade – it benefited richly from meatless days in the religious calendar.
Faith in the infinitude of the sea was like a religion, too. We have long known the belief to be false, and yet we continue to behave as if the seas were stocked by magic. The result has been a programme of increasingly spectacular vanishing acts. Typical of many, the Newfoundland cod fishery, once famous for being more fish than water, collapsed in 1992 because we had eaten the breeding stock – an act of wilful self-harm that would have stretched the credulity of a Neanderthal. The North Sea, too, once seethed with shoals. Herring to East Anglians was like gold to the Incas – it raised them up; it brought them down. Lowestoft in the early 20th century could handle 60m fish at a time, but it was not enough. On a single day in 1907, the drifters brought in 90m. During the eight-week season, from mid-September to November, more than 1,000 boats would steam south from Scotland to join the plunder, shooting their nets as the fish rose at dusk.
Everything moved to the rhythm of the shoals. Just as the marrying season for farm workers and their girls was in October and November after the corn had been stored, so the fishwives enjoyed their season between November and February, after the salting of the herring. Now it sounds as quaint as the maypole. For all the usual reasons, plus a few extra (disruption by war, loss of export markets through changing tastes), another golden goose honked its last. In 1967 just a single drifter sailed out of Lowestoft, and 10 years later the government banned all herring fishing in the North Sea.
I have heard this described as a “salutary lesson”, but 30 years on, with cod on the brink and entire marine ecosystems made moribund, fishermen still plead for the right to clear the seas of everything with flesh on its bones. Scientists advising zero quotas tug Europe’s fisheries ministers in the direction of sanity. Nationalism, their domestic fishing industries and the appetites of their electorates tug them towards the chip shop. Better empty seas than lost elections.
My paradisiacal evening walk is along the southern shore of the Wash, part of what is known as fishing area IVc, stretching from Grimsby south to Folkestone, and across to northern France, Belgium and the Netherlands. As recently as 1995, IVc netted 2,472 tonnes of cod. Eight years later, in 2003, a dwindling UK fleet landed just 678 tonnes. In four years, total landings at East Anglia’s principal fishing port, Lowestoft, crashed from 5,400 to 1,667 tonnes. In 2004 it plummeted again, to 657 tonnes, which included more sprats (272 tonnes) than the combined weight of cod (135 tonnes), sole (38 tonnes), herring (3 tonnes) and haddock (nil). In the following year, even that would invite tears of nostalgia – the total cod catch by UK vessels in fishing area IVc in 2005 was 206 tonnes. It’s the same across the rest of the country. Less than 20% of the cod eaten in the UK now is caught by its own fleets: the rest is air-freighted from Iceland, Russia, Denmark, Norway, the Faeroes and, in processed form, from China. To put it more starkly: in 1947, the year of my first acquaintance with the sea, the UK fleet landed 273,135 tonnes of cod. In 2005 it managed just 21,000, and Britain’s contribution to global fish production fell to less than 1%.
And yet we can’t seem to stop ourselves. Science repeatedly tells us no more cod should be taken, but European ministers in December 2005 voted for a quota-cut of just 15%. Not only this. Quotas for other species in the same seas had actually been raised, thus increasing the “bycatch” of young cod and hitting the breeding stock even harder. It was the same last year. The UK minister Ben Bradshaw returned from the traditional pre-Christmas haggle pleased to announce quota increases variously for mackerel, hake, monkfish, prawns and haddock. The bad news for fishermen was that North Sea cod would be cut by 14%, and days at sea by between 7% and 10%, depending on the size of trawler.
The deal as usual pleased nobody – not even Bradshaw himself, who had wanted a bigger cut but predictably had been thwarted by the politicking. For Bertie Armstrong, the chief executive of the Scottish Fishermen’s Federation, the cut was “wholly unsatisfactory”, and took no account of “the huge efforts made [by] the Scottish fleet to fish sustainably and responsibly”. The chorus was taken up by Alex Salmond, leader of the Scottish National Party. “The Scottish fleet,” he said, “are represented by a Whitehall minister who doesn’t care, and a Scottish minister who’s not there when it counts. This annual pantomime has turned into farce.” But Salmond of course is a politician, not a scientist, and what he’s fishing for is votes.
One thing at least has got better since my childhood. Then a visit to a beach would involve not only calamine lotion for sunburnt skin but also turpentine for oil-smeared limbs and ruined towels – people could smell you coming, but didn’t know whether to expect a powdered aunt or a decorator. Like all improvements at sea, it took a disaster to make it happen. The wreck of the Torrey Canyon on the Seven Stones reef off the Scillies in 1967 caused what was then the worst oil spill in history (40 years and multiple sinkings later, it still ranks seventh).
As 100,000 tonnes of oil drifted towards Cornwall in a slick the size of an English county, the prime minister, Harold Wilson, and his colleagues met and acted like a war cabinet, ordering Royal Navy Buccaneers to bomb the wreck. In all, they dropped 42 1000-pounders, earning derision by hitting the target only three times out of four. Behind them came RAF Hunters, spraying aviation fuel to ignite the oil. It didn’t end even with that. The BBC was soon talking about rockets and napalm, and sightseers crowded the cliff tops to watch. It was the very darkest of black comedies. After each bombing-run, the smoke would drift to reveal the ship, blackened and broken but refusing to sink. Worse was to come. Spring tides put out the flames, leaving commanders no option but to sound the retreat, leaving the hulk to go on seeping through the night until the bombers could finish it off in the morning. At least 70 miles of England’s most beautiful beaches (93 by some accounts) were coated in disgusting brown sludge, Cornwall’s tourist industry took a massive hit, and tens of thousands of sea birds died (though miraculously the fisheries were very little damaged, and most of the harm came not from the oil itself but from the detergent used to disperse it). The French had it even worse.
Of course it was not catastrophes like this that routinely caked the beaches – for that we could thank ships’ captains flushing their tanks at sea. In theory this had been barred in coastal waters since 1954, but it was a bit like expecting dogs to respect “No fouling” notices. It was not in their nature. Torrey Canyon changed all that, albeit at a speed that was slow even by the standards of international diplomacy. It took two years, until 1969, for the International Maritime Organisation (IMO) to agree to a special conference, another four years, until 1973, for the conference actually to meet and agree the basic outline of a treaty. Even then, three years later, only Jordan, Kenya and Tunisia had signed up. Oil tankers meanwhile were behaving as if they regarded Torrey Canyon as a role model.
So IMO tried again. A conference in 1978 relaxed the anti-pollution timetable from snail’s pace down to something easier for the negotiators to keep up with. It was not until October 2, 1983, 16 years after Torrey Canyon, that Annex I of Marpol, “Prevention of pollution by oil”, became law, and we got something in return for our patience. Double-hulled ships are now gradually reducing the risk of accidents (the UK has not had a big one since the Sea Empress in 1996), and technology has mostly done away with the need for tank-washing. It shows that international co-operation in marine conservation is possible. It also shows that the sense of urgency struggles to exceed manana – a problem that can still be marked in sewage.
Here, too, improvements have been hard won. Old, overloaded sewerage systems are sometimes still caught short with horrible consequences after storms, but it’s no longer policy to treat coastal waters as an unfiltered extension of the national U-bend, and swimmers are much less likely to strike out through floating faeces than they were in the 1950s – a decade when not even a polio outbreak convinced the government that sewage was a bad thing to swim in, and when the only controlling mechanisms were our noses and stomachs. So long as the water did not make us vomit, we could frolic in it. It was not until 1976 that the EC set limits for faecal coliforms (Escherichia coli, for example) in “designated bathing waters”. After a slow start (only 27 in 1979), the number of such waters has risen to 493 in England and Wales (though nine are inland), and 63 in Scotland. This means they are regularly monitored and meet official standards. But it does not mean they are free from faecal matter, or that a coliform swallowed at a Blue Flag beach is any less likely to make you sick than one sampled from a sewer. In 2006, 99.5% of English designated waters reached the EC’s “minimum” standard for coliforms, and 75.1% the higher “guideline” standard. Only two sites failed, and only one of these – Staithes, in North Yorkshire – was coastal (the other was Hampstead Heath ladies’ pond in London).
If you are reassured by that, prepare for a shock.
By accepted criteria, the risk of contracting a gastrointestinal illness is 14% in minimum-standard European designated water, and 5% in guideline-standard, per swim. Research in the UK has shown that surfers – and thus, by implication, swimmers too – are three times more likely than non-surfer/swimmers to contract hepatitis A. Imagine, say, that strawberry yoghurt carried a 5% risk of diarrhoea and vomiting. It would be off the shelves before you could say “Food Standards Agency”.
In March 2006, a much-needed revision of the EC Bathing Water Directive came into force. “Coming into force”, however, didn’t mean it was any more sensible to dive in with your mouth open – the UK has two years (ie, until next March) to introduce any legislation necessary to comply, and until 2015 to bring it fully into effect. Given the government’s tragicomic, foot-dragging and generally losing battle with European environmental directives (on toxic waste and waste electrical equipment, for example), one hesitates to celebrate too wildly.
Eventually, the old “mandatory” and “guideline” standards will be replaced by four new ones: “poor”, “sufficient”, “good” and “excellent”. The last two are backed by the World Health Organization (WHO), which reckons they will cut the risk of infection to 5% and 3% per swim respectively. The “sufficient” standard, however, lags behind at 8%, or gamblers’ odds of 25-to-2, which is why WHO will not support it. According to Defra, only 51% of English designated waters currently would pass as “excellent” and 26% “good”, with 15% (ie, 61 beaches) “sufficient” and 8% “poor”. Pending the inevitable “stakeholder consultation”, it has yet to tell us how the low scorers will be improved. The outcome will depend on arm wrestling between legislators who want cleaner bathing water, others who want cheaper drinking water, and the water companies, whose combined responsibility for sewage disposal and water supply seems to involve a constant conflict of priority, as if clean beaches and clean tap water were somehow locked in opposition, like cousins contesting a will.
In the end it may all come down to labelling. The EC has until 2010 to design a system of “clear and simple” symbols to be displayed at popular beaches, with a target of 2012 – six years after the directive was introduced – for the signs to be erected. So don’t ditch the Diocalm yet. Don’t ditch it especially if you’re holidaying abroad. Only 24% of the UK’s sewage output is still discharged raw, but in the Mediterranean it’s 53% (so don’t look too closely at what the fish are nibbling in the bay). Even this doesn’t make it a particular black spot internationally. The figure for Latin America and the Caribbean is 86%, slightly better than eastern Asia (89%), but worse than the southeast Pacific and west and central Africa (83% and 80% respectively).
The consequence is not just swimmers with their heads down the lavatory. Pollutants including agricultural as well as human wastes are stimulating algal blooms and creating oxygen-deficient “dead zones” – marine graveyards where nothing can live. This is exacerbated by climate change, which is causing shifts in winds and ocean currents. The UN Environment Programme (Unep) reports that the number of dead zones worldwide has doubled in every decade since the 1960s. In 2006 there were 200, and they are not small. Off the coast of Oregon, oxygen was sucked out of 3,000 square kilometres (1,150 square miles), suffocating everything that lived. No fish swam. The sea bed was littered with carcasses, and the shore with dead sea birds. Migrating salmon starved, and the whole episode lasted 17 weeks. Similar zones have appeared in Scandinavia, the Gulf of Mexico, and off the coasts of South America, Ghana, China, Japan, Australia, New Zealand, Portugal and, yes, even the UK, though nothing yet on the scale of Oregon.
According to Greenpeace, soupy “plumes” of agro-chemically-enriched river water have created areas of de-oxygenation in the southern North Sea, Liverpool Bay and the Clyde estuary, and worse has befallen our neighbours. In 2000, the Ospar Commission for the Protection of the Marine Environment of the North-East Atlantic reported widespread problems “in particular estuaries and fjords, the Wadden Sea, the German Bight, the Kattegat and the eastern Skaggerak”. Fishing for Norwegian lobster (aka scampi or langoustine) in the Kattegat had all but ceased, and the long-term build-up of pollution meant it could take decades to recover.
I have written before on the curse of sea-cage salmon farming in western Scotland – the perceived link (obvious to some, disputed by others) between pollution from the farms, algal blooms and shellfish disease; the gradual extinction of wild Atlantic salmon by sea lice from farmed fish and crossbreeding with the thousands of farm escapes. Anglers now catch four truant farm-salmon for every wild one, though anyone mentioning this is likely to be accused of hostility to the Highland economy (never mind that the industry is dominated by the Norwegian giant Pan Fish, not by local farmers), and the Scottish executive prances round the issue like a one-legged sword-dancer over a snake pit. The Worldwide Fund for Nature (WWF) and some others have stopped actively campaigning against the farms because, as a WWF spokesman put it to me, “the Scottish Executive is so neatly tucked up in bed with the aquaculture industry” that there is no point.
There is an assumption, central to the case for aquaculture, that farmed fish take the pressure off wild ones. But the reverse is true. To create enough fishmeal and oils to grow one kilo of farmed salmon, you need to catch four kilos of wild fish. Worldwide, about 30m tonnes are taken annually to make fishmeal and fish oil, of which 70% of the oil and 34% of the meal goes to fish farms. By 2010, at the current rate of increase, this is likely to reach 100% and 50% respectively. By far the greatest single share – 53% of the world output of fish oil – is eaten by salmon and trout. The wild species used in fish feed are caught mainly in the northeast Atlantic and southeast Pacific, off Chile and Peru. In February 2003, WWF-Norway reported that fisheries were reeling under the pressure, and local governments argued that catches should be eaten by people, not taken away for salmon feed.
Nor was this the worst of it. The fish used in oil and meal (which include sardine, jack mackerel, horse mackerel, sprat, sand eel, pout, capelin and herring) are essential to the survival of other species – not just mammals and birds but, perhaps more importantly in the narrow context of seafood, other fish. Dr Simon Cripps, director of WWF’s endangered seas programme, spelt it out. “A decline in fish stocks used in fish feed,” he said, “can have devastating effects throughout the marine food chain from wild stocks of cod, haddock and other commercial species right on up to dolphins, orcas [killer whales] and marine birds.” It is madness on a plate. The industrial sand-eel fishery in the North Sea did indeed collapse in 2003, and even the aquaculture industry has begun to realise that it can’t sustain itself like this. Its own long-term survival will depend on alternative sources of feed – soya protein, perhaps, or (following the example of the “organic” salmon trade) the spare parts – heads, guts and so forth – of fish caught for the table.
Even as we dither over climate change, the sea is bulking itself up, literally expanding as the water warms and becomes more turbulent. We know the massive storms and surges are coming; that parts of England and Wales have no more chance than Bangladesh of staying dry. We know we can’t save every town and village. But, though we have argued for years, we still can’t decide which bits of coastline to set in concrete and which to abandon to the sea; how, or even if, we will compensate those for whom a change of policy will mean the loss of their homes.
Without the spur of electoral interest, governments move with the speed of limpets over a rock. You would need a very long bus queue to find anyone in it who knew what a Mehra was (and I suspect this would be the case even if the queue was composed entirely of MPs). After the tanker Braer came to grief off the Shetlands in 1993, the government ordered an inquiry under the late Lord Donaldson to find ways of protecting the coast from pollution by shipping. Among its recommendations were Marine Environmental High Risk Areas, or Mehras, which ships’ captains would either avoid or at least take care not to sink in.
Classic examples, said Donaldson, were the Scillies and the Minches. The reasons were obvious. The Scillies are the most diverse sea bird site in England (20,000 nesting birds of 13 species), and a vital migratory route for birds of passage. Their rocks and reefs are also a notorious graveyard for ships. So it is with the Minches – the busy straits between the west coast of Scotland and the Outer Hebrides. Thousands of ships pass through every year and it is a favourite short cut for tankers. In 2003, the German-owned MV Jambo sank off the Summer Isles, spilling 1,600 tonnes of zinc oxide; in 2005 an oil tanker grounded off Skye. Dolphins, whales, seals and basking sharks flourish in waters whose bird populations are uncountably vast. And so it goes on. Here were two areas of world-class coastline, internationally important for wildlife and famous for their beauty, both with a long history of accidents and damage from shipping.
And yet, after 12 years of deliberation, in February 2006, the Department for Transport announced a list of 32 Mehras that included about 9% of the UK coastline but (should one laugh or cry?) not the Scillies or the Minches. The RSPB, WWF and the Marine Conservation Society were incredulous; questions were asked in parliament. But it was no use. Somehow officials had managed to design criteria for Mehras that specifically excluded the two places that most needed their protection.
Back in Norfolk, at sunset, I watch a family canoeing home after a picnic. They have left it late and are silhouetted against the water, two lithe figures bending at the paddles, two more lolling in between. The falling tide has exposed acres of mud, forcing them seawards and doubling their journey. Behind them a long, low spit of shingle, home to terns and seals, merges with the dusk. Their bright beachwear and the pillar-box red of their plastic canoe are neutralised by the shadow, so that nothing remains but their shape. It is an image as old as history. Fragile boat; infinite sea; frail humanity. From this distance it would look no different if the canoe were a dugout and its crew a Mesolithic family in furs. Driving home I see barn owls, hares, deer, and enjoy the illusion of timelessness. But the landscape is not the same as the one I knew in the 1950s, and neither is the sea. It, too, has changed its chemistry.
In June 2005, the Royal Society published a report that articulated the fears of scientists worldwide. To keep it simple: carbon dioxide in the atmosphere is absorbed by the oceans. It follows therefore that the more carbon there is in the atmosphere, the more there is in the sea. Over the past 200 years, says the Royal Society, the oceans have absorbed about half the CO² released by fossil fuels, and this has increased the acidity of the water. If the trend continues, by 2100 the seas will be at their most acidic for hundreds of millennia, and the rate of change “100 times greater than at any time over this period”. Why does it matter? Knowledge is incomplete, but all the evidence suggests that acidification ultimately destroys the ability of shellfish and corals to grow shells and plates from calcium carbonate. “Other calcifying organisms that may be affected,” warns the Royal Society, “are components of the phytoplankton and zooplankton, and are a major food source for fish.”
Abandoning the measured language of the Royal Society, we find ourselves once again gasping at our own stupidity. While we argue about cod quotas, offshore wind farms, the vandalism of Brighton pier, we imperil the sea by the very fact of our existence. Unless we cut the carbon, we face not only the well-advertised decline in survivability of the land, but also permanent destruction of life in the sea.
Yes, “permanent” is an exaggeration, but not in the context of human timescales. Ocean acidification, says the Royal Society, is “essentially irreversible during our lifetimes. It will take tens of thousands of years for ocean chemistry to return to a condition similar to that occurring in pre-industrial times”.
That’s an awfully long time to go without fish.
Sea Change, by Richard Girling, is published on July 2 by Eden Project Books, price £14.99. It is available at the Sunday Times BooksFirst price of £13.49 including postage and packing. Tel: 0870 165 8585 or visit www.booksfirstbuy.co.uk
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